Mmmmm Thanks Horatius. hadn't even considered that. so to clarify: from the fuel tank there will be two pipes not one heading towards the engine bay and both need disconnected from the tank and extended into the jerry can?
Yes. I guess you will need to run a couple of decent lengths of hose, though I am not sure of the access at the tank. The two hoses are accessable from the front drivers side of the engine bay. This is where you can disconnect the hoses to drop into a can of liquimoly diesel purge, so you could look here for another option to run new hose from
I was looking on the downloaded manual I have and the fuel sender unit includes the fuel out and return so it should be easy to get to the hoses. The pick up should be accessable to check for blockage as well
Boogieboots, What Manual do you have? I looked for a haynes but didn't specify the D22 model, Ive been using the free NAV life pdfs. im gonna attach a pic as you can see what im trying describe.
the fitting on the right with the blue cap (this isn't my pump its a image from the net) so I traced the 2 x fuel lines. the thicker line (10mm internal dia) was the fuel in from filter.. leaving the other (5mm internal dia) now that smaller line was leading to the fitting with blue cap.
I went to couplers and collected 2 x 5m lengths of these pipes (actually the 5mm was substituted for a 4.5 that the good lady at couplers insisted would be perfect...
as i was attempting to pull the existing line off this fitting the fitting became loose, its a bolt that has a hole in the shaft and that sits inside a ring that also has a hole in...
bottom line is it was now finger tight (im assuming this is the return connection) anyhow its off and wrestled for a while to get the new 9bit small0 pipe onto this fitting and replace it.
Qnce it was on, and the 5m pipes were connected to the jerry can in the tray, i primed the fuel filter and she started but stopped...... I could see leak at this connection..(in pic with blue cap)
Q: do you or Old Tony know if or have a pic of that fitting or know if it needs a special orientation or torque I kinda ruled out torque as it was undone with my fingers and wasn't leaking previously,
I have a manual that I downloaded from this site but I don't think it is available anymore. At 10km at a time you should be due in Byford sometime next week so I will give you a copy
As for the pump pic, I will try and remember to have a look at mine tomorrow mate.
The fitting with the blue cap returns fuel to the tank , shouldn't be finger tight. Any air leak in to the pump will let the fuel drain back to the tank. Air coming from the fuel filter housing isn't good either , fix that.
Here's the vp44 manual. 106805168-VP44-CO-EE14E-11130.pdf
From what I have read so far it seems as tho engine coolant temperature could be a factor. The mechanics of ur pump are fine, it’s the electrics that are not. It takes my engine five to fifteen kms to fully reach operating temp. And takes well at least four hours or longer to cool down. Never really timed it. There is a sensor that puts engine into limp mode beyond certain temperature maybe something is going wrong there.
That's a distinct possibility, @Erick ... I'd suggest it may be reading overtemp rather than under, because I've started my engine in -11C and it's not had a drama, and thanks to having a caravan on the back it heated up fairly quickly.
Any idea what the ECU thinks the coolant temp is when it's giving up?
Loving the sound of that. most of the fault finding, draining of fuel, re priming, and clean starting and running would lean to something other than the V expensive pump.... (fingers crossed).
Regards the ECU, (OT) Yesterday the (affordable) OBD2 scan tool from Kincrome K8410 Was anticlimactic as SLOWLEARNER (after unwrapping) read the compatible Nissan Models in the instruction book and deflated when it said 2008+ only.
Never mind... Boogie Boots did explain that the OBD2 wasn't straight forward....
Think that location of this temp sensor that triggers a limp mode has got to be the next step.....
I will try and locate it .................... I may be some time.
I would start with engine coolant sensor that sends signal to ur temp gauge. But I think if it was just that, ur temp gauge would read high, as in boiling. I have been saved by engine going to limp mode once due to high temp and the gauge was off the chart. So engine would literally quit until under 2000 rpm. Not just reduce power.