D22 runs perfectly. stops and won't start until had a rest, then runs perfectly for 10-15ks please help

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tweak'e

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weake do you mean the chip in the main ECU or the chip in the VP44 pump. sorry if im not getting it.
in the pump itself. it has it own ecu board in there. there is a chip that fails but also theres vids on some of the wiring inside disconnecting.

i would be surprised if it cut out exactly at 82c every time.
if it does that may indicate something else.
 

tweak'e

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a strange thing you can try,
after its heated up (so you can restart it again), pull the glow plug fuse.
then start it up and see if it still cuts out when it gets to 82c.

the ecu is know to get a little grumpy with electrical interference. glow plugs are one of the few things that turn off at a certain temp.

also is there anything else wrong with the ute?
 

slow learner

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Thank you for replying, So the glow plug is only used for cold starting or are they essential in the firing of the fuel.

I know to wait for the glow plug light to turn off before starting.

I will locate that fuse and pull it.... Tony did mention about glow plugs earlier.
 

tweak'e

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Thank you for replying, So the glow plug is only used for cold starting or are they essential in the firing of the fuel.

I know to wait for the glow plug light to turn off before starting.

I will locate that fuse and pull it.... Tony did mention about glow plugs earlier.
the glow plugs run for quite some time until the engine heats up and it turns them off at 75 degrees. not far off your 82.
remote possibility the relay is arcing when turning the glows off and screwing up an ecu input.
its a known issue with the crank sensors, starter motors etc can screw with its signal on start up.
its a cheap easy thing to test.
 

slow learner

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Im getting excited!! sounds like exactly whats happening... so, just to check:

I locate the fuse for glow pugs.

start her and while she is running pull that fuse and see if she runs without stopping at the 82 degrees.
 

Erick

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Been following this with interest. I would Definately be looking at the ecu. We know these motors shut down on high coolant temp. Urs is just shutting dow at a lower temp than programmed. As I understand it, fuel is not restricted, engine just won’t rev over 2k. When my engine got too hot, it would drive normally up to 2k revs then nothing. For some reason the ecu is not allowing any revs at all.
I have had experience of diesel pumps failing due to old age , wear and heat. For a good pump to fail due to heat alone it has to reach over 100 degrees. Had that problem on an air cooled diesel tractor. Also , as fuel and pump warms up if it’s worn, performance tapers off gradually on a purely mechanical pump and will keep running an engine even when they won’t start a cold engine without help from ether, or such. We know electronic chips are affected by heat, so to my mind it’s the ecu or the chip on the pump.
The bush fix is to install a lower temp thermostat or drill a series of holes around the skirt.4x6 mm holes will do it. Longer warm up times and lower running temp. No thermostat at all can cause problems of its own.
Or maybe none of the above, who knows with these things??
 

slow learner

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See the fuse I removed (it was Labled as GLOW) shout if its the wrong fuse.. I didnt locate a relay (if you know where that is Tweake please share, and thanks for input)

I Pulled that 80a fuse once she was running and waited, she died again at 82 degrees.

Managed to pull the Thermostat off without removing anything else but when I compared my replacement Thermostat it was a poor cousin so im just checking that before installing....

tested the old thermostat should open at 82 or 179.6f was more like 185f or 85c not what is was expecting but it could be opening slightly too slow so will change it.

Also: I blanked off the EGR two days ago BUT i only blanked off the top and apparently I need to blank off the bottom to reduce the heat generated around the VP44.

Thanks for Input Erick
 

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Horatius

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According to manual the thermostat starts to open at 80-84 C (near enough to 82C) and should fully open at 95C.
 

Old.Tony

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Don't worry about blanking both ends of the EGR. Grab a straw, bend the end over and hold it tight with your fingers. Now blow in the other end ... since nothing will flow through the straw, it won't work. EGR tube will be the same.
 

slow learner

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Thats Funny Tony.. the Straw analogy. I thought the same as I blanked the top with minimum effort. I called the mechanic back who suggested I blank it and he said that the top gets blanked for increased compression and the bottom is blanked as thats where the heated gas travels from and heats the VP44.

As its a cheap fix I will try blanking the bottom of that EGR as well and report back.

I cant understand the logic as the motor worked and works without Blanking in thousands of utes....... Still it will get tried once the new Thermostat has been fitted.

* Thermostat
* ERG blank
* ECU swap / test
 

Horatius

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Trying an ECU swap sounds a good idea, though the thermostat and egr sounds like wishful thinking. If it gets to that stage you might as well get the local witch doctor to cast a spell on it IMO. Which shouldn't dissuade you, who knows, certainly admiring the never give up attitude.

Have you checked the wiring and plugs to the fuel pump? Possible faulty connections? I had a situation once where I kept going into limp mode intermittently. Ended up being dirt and water got in the plug to the pump, after a river crossing. A squirt with wd40 sorted it.

Not the same symptoms and something of a long shot perhaps, but it seems more likely than a thermostat causing it.
 

tweak'e

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I called the mechanic back who suggested I blank it and he said that the top gets blanked for increased compression and the bottom is blanked as thats where the heated gas travels from and heats the VP44.
thats funny as hell. i would stay very far away from that mechanic.
 

Boogieboots

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Thats Funny Tony.. the Straw analogy. I thought the same as I blanked the top with minimum effort. I called the mechanic back who suggested I blank it and he said that the top gets blanked for increased compression and the bottom is blanked as thats where the heated gas travels from and heats the VP44.

As its a cheap fix I will try blanking the bottom of that EGR as well and report back.

I cant understand the logic as the motor worked and works without Blanking in thousands of utes....... Still it will get tried once the new Thermostat has been fitted.

* Thermostat
* ERG blank
* ECU swap / test
I still have my original ECU from before I had the remap done mate. For the sake of a test you can throw my spare in and see if the problem persists. I am on holidays at the moment and will bring it up to you to see if it helps.
If nothing else it might put an end to this fkn thread!😂
Just gotta keep eliminating the possibilities and the real problem will be the only thing left🤔
 

slow learner

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Yeah, Its getting Tired.

wouldn't be able to sleep knowing these last things haven't got tried at least.

Boogie Boots! thats an awesome offer.... And I would happily drive to you to borrow that ECU.

Lets give this issues one last push and keep this meandering thread alive a leal bit longer...... thing is if the answer is found it will be valuable for the other ZD30 or VP44 owners.

PS: the witch doctor thing is funny! had it not been for the straight up confidence of the mech that this is the issue then I would have been reluctant to try it..... then seeing the similar Modification on you tube (minus the lower blank) cemented for me that it was worth a try.
 

slow learner

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Update; changed the thermostat and refilled with water only (nb*) removed the EGR as per witch doctors instructions and blanked both ends and replaced.

Started first time and ran well up to 72 degrees (10 degrees cooler than usual) then stuttered and stopped. so nothing I have done over the last three months has made an iota of difference, however it is interesting that the cut out is happening at a lower temp....


Banged my forehead against the roo bar x 3 and tried to restart.... still nothing

walked indoors and messaged Boogie boots about possibly borrowing his spare ECU....
 

redkite

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Did you actually check the Engine Coolant Temperature Sensor? The thingy used by the ECU to determine engine temp, EGR control, etc? Its independent from the thermostate that controls coolant flow.

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slow learner

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Redkite, Hi yes, I broke the old one getting it out and replaced with a new one. Q: Would the ECU cut the fuel if the coolant sensor sent a high temp reading?

The temp gauge (that appears to be fed from another temp measuring probe as it reads with or without the coolant sensor connected) never gets above half way or 72-82 degrees read on ECU talk.... LOL it just stops
 

redkite

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The temp gauge is driven by a sensor on the side, halfway on the cylinderblock on the battery side. That sensor is not connected to the ECU it appears.
The ECU-temp sensor is on the right front edge, where the coolant goes into the radiator (or comes out of the radiator, I don't know the flow direction)
 

Boogieboots

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No
The temp gauge is driven by a sensor on the side, halfway on the cylinderblock on the battery side. That sensor is not connected to the ECU it appears.
The ECU-temp sensor is on the right front edge, where the coolant goes into the radiator (or comes out of the radiator, I don't know the flow direction)
Now that you mention it most of the equipment interlocks we have at work are switches and don't go off level or temperature sensors, so having a second sensor to kill the engine if it is triggered might be the cause of this🤔
If I get the chance to check my manual at work tomorrow I will see if I can find anything
 

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