Ctek 250S install issues

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obr1en

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I have just finished installing a Ctek 250s charger into my 2012 ST.. I have done it via a standard install instead of using the relay option as recommended for smart alternators..

I figured I will remove the green wire that allows the alternator to operate at variable outputs.

My question is for anybody that has installed is when I started and had the car idling the interior roof lights (I had door open) where flicking ever so slightly.. I have taken the ctek power from the positive post on the battery on top of the factory wiring. Could this be the cause of this issue?

Also the Vsc has turned of and I cannot get it to turn back of.

Any help would be great cheers guys
 
What do you mean by "standard install"??
Do you mean that your letting the CTEK isolate the aux batt from the main when juice gets low??
 
The connection sounds like it's done just fine, the CTek will stop drawing power when the input voltage drops too low. However, if your cable is a little on the small side, it will draw extra power (until the low-voltage threshold is reached) and that means extra current off the main battery. I'd be very interested in knowing the cranker's voltage while the interior lights are flickering.

The other odd behaviour - the VSC - could either be because of the low voltage, or one of the components now has a poor electrical connection. ECU earth points in the D40 are known to be weak. Check the main battery voltage first, in case it's the cause of your woes!
 
Thanks Tony, the voltage was the issue I think.

I Hadn't driven the Ute since Saturday but started it up a few times therefore most likely slightly draining a starter battery that needs replacing soon anyway..
I rechecked battery connections and grounds for Ctek/Aux.

Once I drove it for the first time this morning I turned the interior lights on and the flicker seems to have gone away. Also the VSC has let me turn it back on. I assumed the starter has now returned to a normal state of charge.

Thanks for your help as usual mate.
 
I'm about to install a ctek 250s into my canopy.
Questions is- smart alternators can reduce the amount of voltage for charging the crank batt to save on fuel.
Is the lower operating voltage of the alternator going to make the ctek think the engine is off, then stop charging the aux batt??? Or is the voltage within the cteks safety parameters??
Do I NEED to do the green wire mod?

Thanks
 
If yours has a smart alternator you will either have to do the green wire mod or fit a relay as recommended on the ctek site. The relay lets power to the ctek through the solar input though, that's the difference.
 
The only diagram I have seen with a relay in it (in one of your posts I think) doesn't get around the smart alternator. All it does it drop the ctek out of the circuit when the engine is off and bring in the solar???
This still won't stop the ctek turning off if the smart alternator drops below 12.8v even if motor is running. Ctek have a built it batt isolator, so it shouldn't flatten it. I was going to put a relay, but since found out that if I have solar hooked in too, it can trickle charge the cranking batt when aux it full. If I have a relay this won't be possible!
 
The relay gets around the smart alternator because it supplies battery power into the solar input, which doesn't have the low voltage cutoff that the battery input has. You need a relay running off the "on" position on the ignition switch so it only supplies power when the ignition is on.

That's correct with the solar input. You won't be able to hook a panel up with the relay in place. Solution, do the green wire mod. It is easily reversible if you just pop the pin out of the plug...
 
Thanks heaps mate, think I will be doing the green wire mod. I want to use the ctek to its full potential:):)
 
Ctek 250S

I have just finished installing a Ctek 250s charger into my 2012 ST.. I have done it via a standard install instead of using the relay option as recommended for smart alternators..

I figured I will remove the green wire that allows the alternator to operate at variable outputs.

My question is for anybody that has installed is when I started and had the car idling the interior roof lights (I had door open) where flicking ever so slightly.. I have taken the ctek power from the positive post on the battery on top of the factory wiring. Could this be the cause of this issue?

Also the Vsc has turned of and I cannot get it to turn back of.

Any help would be great cheers guys

I've had my 250S in place for around 3 years. I installed direct to my battery and have never had any issues at all. I've done over 60,000Km in that time.
 
I've had my 250S in place for around 3 years. I installed direct to my battery and have never had any issues at all. I've done over 60,000Km in that time.


Do you have the smart alternator? Have you done the Green wire mod?
 
Nope. It still has a regulator to control how much charge the battery gets. The green wire is just so it can shut the alternator down to remove some load from the engine when it's not required. Supposedly saving a little fuel...
 
^ I think it's a "savings" effort too. The alternator will cause the engine load to rise by a couple of percent when it's charging so NOT having to drive the alternator as well will save a small amount of fuel and add the couple of kW back to the power available at the flywheel.

I don't see the point in introducing additional complexity to a device (which increases the component cost and adds another failure point) just to beat the competition. The nearest competitor in the Australian market was the Bravo at 147kW and the 550 beat the pants off it. There was no need to do this!
 
Where is the plug with the green wire I need to pop out? I thought I saw a thread with it last week but cannot find it now that I want it
 
Guys to save yourself cutting wires or pulling them from the fuse box. The quickest way is to unplug the grey plug on the negative battery terminal. I have had mine this way since new in 2013. Constant charges means the car still starts like it should after a week of sitting where as with the smart alternator active 2-3 days and it would crank slower.
 
Anyone with a V9X motor got a photo of where you tapped in for ignition to drive the relay? I found a spot but it will not open the relay.
 

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