** check engine light **

[deano.langford]

Hey there!

Had a previous issue with a fuel prime pump leaking somewhere along the lines.. got it replaced at my local dealer.. happy days!

On Friday morning my check engine light came on.. didn’t drive the car. Saturday… started the car and check engine light was on. Sunday the same. Monday morning the same (had to drive around 30km). Monday afternoon.. light is OFF! After sitting for 3hrs or so the light was off. Tuesday morning cold start, seemed abit boggy to start but no engine light on.. arrived at train station, turned car off. Turned it back on again.. seemed boggier to start. Still no light.

I did have to run the car less than 70kph over the weekend. Can someone explain what may be happening here?

Recently had an alternator changed, battery changed and full major 130km service. It was throwing a fault after the service was done (glow plug relay P0380). Fault was in the past. Diagnostics done, fault cleared and could not fault again.

Now this has occurred.. not sure what this may be?

Car is booked in for diagnostics at the dealer (again) in a few days time.

Anyone had this before? Car is running fine otherwise.

 

[Old.Tony]

It sounds like you had a Claytons limp mode in there - often the product of a damaged/worn/dirty SCV. With fuel issues (particularly air in the lines = no lubrication of the fuel pump) this isn't an enormous surprise.

However, the glow relay error is an odd one. This makes me think that the errors are not accurate - and that means the ECU is struggling to see what's happening and that's often caused by electrical gremlins.

Step 1: write down your trip meter if you use it for calculating fuel economy.
Step 2: get the PIN for your radio handy.
Step 3: disconnect BOTH battery leads and clean everything, the battery posts, the terminals - REALLY well. Reassemble, make sure it's all tight.
Step 4: For pre-2015 D40s - look around the ECU (vehicle right hand wheel guard) for a wire connected to a bolt. Remove the bolt. Clean the surface it was bolted to, clean the connector, reinstall.
Step 5: IF YOU HAVE IT: spray that bolt from 4 and the terminals from 3 with battery terminal sealer to prevent future corrosion.

Try the car again.

 

[deano.langford]

It sounds like you had a Claytons limp mode in there - often the product of a damaged/worn/dirty SCV. With fuel issues (particularly air in the lines = no lubrication of the fuel pump) this isn't an enormous surprise.

However, the glow relay error is an odd one. This makes me think that the errors are not accurate - and that means the ECU is struggling to see what's happening and that's often caused by electrical gremlins.

Step 1: write down your trip meter if you use it for calculating fuel economy.
Step 2: get the PIN for your radio handy.
Step 3: disconnect BOTH battery leads and clean everything, the battery posts, the terminals - REALLY well. Reassemble, make sure it's all tight.
Step 4: For pre-2015 D40s - look around the ECU (vehicle right hand wheel guard) for a wire connected to a bolt. Remove the bolt. Clean the surface it was bolted to, clean the connector, reinstall.
Step 5: IF YOU HAVE IT: spray that bolt from 4 and the terminals from 3 with battery terminal sealer to prevent future corrosion.

Try the car again.

@Old.Tony thanks for that! Will give it all a go.

Got it started on the third attempt this afternoon.. is very random and unpredictable at the moment. For the completely non mechanical minded.. SCV? And what is the pin for the radio for.. or have I missed something completely? Thanks!

 

[deano.langford]

@Old.Tony thanks for that! Will give it all a go.

Got it started on the third attempt this afternoon.. is very random and unpredictable at the moment. For the completely non mechanical minded.. SCV? And what is the pin for the radio for.. or have I missed something completely? Thanks!

@Old.Tony
This might help too.. also checked the fuel primer (that was apparently replaced by Nissan ~14days ago) and we have drips of diesel coming out.

 

[Old.Tony]

You've got a fuel leak for sure, still. They can be caused by loose hoses, clamps done up too tightly (this pinches the hose creating a gap!), cracked hoses, cracked primer bulb, incorrect seating of water sensor in the fuel filter.

What happens is this: while the car is running, there's no huge problem because fuel is being sucked into the pump. The region between the fuel pump and the tank (the filter and primer and all that hosing) is a low pressure zone so unless you overprime the system, fuel will NOT leak out. However: air will leak in (because it's not as dense as fuel). While the engine is stopped, air seeps back in through any gap it can, and allows fuel to go back to the tank. Next time you try to start it, the pump has to draw fuel all the way from the tank.

Here's something to try in the morning: pop the bonnet before starting. Prime the system until the primer is firm (you may or may not get diesel on your fingers depending on how bad the leak is). Try starting the car.

If the car starts really quickly then MOST of your problem is the leak. Find it, resolve it.

The SCV is a small component on the fuel pump (Suction Control Valve). It's about the only painful part of the D40 fuel pump which is otherwise a solid piece of equipment. It has one electrical connection and two Torx bolts holding it into the back of the fuel pump (mounted low on the vehicle right hand side of the engine). If yours is damaged they're not enormously expensive and fairly easy to replace.

 

[Chapster]

Hi Deano I recently had an issue with a cracked fuel primer bulb which definitely causes issues with starting (and initial idling) for the reasons Old Tony has eloquently explained. But I never got a check engine light. So even if you locate and address an air leak in the line (exposed by over-priming) I expect you will need to keep looking for what is triggering your engine light if it comes on again. SCV could well be the culprit.

Incidentally if anyone else needs to replace their primer bulb and either don't want to order genuine from Nissan or don't have time to order online from eBay, you can sort it with this outboard one from Supercheap with the 8mm connectors plus a packet of suitable clamps. Swap the 90 degree connectors out of your old bulb for the straight through ones in your new bulb, tighten in place with new clamps, reinstall noting the correct direction and bobs your uncle.