Wearing in brake pads.

[Dave]

If you had a place fit the pads and rotors they should've bedded in the brakes for you. Dangerous if not done. If you done it yourself what you should do is drive at 60km/h brake hard to about 10km/h do this 3-4 times then drive at 80km/h and brake hard to about 20km/h 2-3 times.

That was the way I was taught at trade school. Everybody has their own way of doing it.

Hope that's what you were talking about.

Taken from Toyotamonthly.

Just changed mine this arvo and thought Id look it up as I haven't done pads in ages, use to pay a local mechanic but he closed up shop.

I had Bendix pads in and I hated them, so back to genuine now.

Dave.

 

[Leprechaun]

You don't wear in brakes, you wear them out. Bedding in is old school nonsense as far as I'm concerned. Good for your drum shod Austin 7, but not needed on modern day cars.

 

[Dave]

I thought the same but plan on testing them so I know they still work.

Dave.

 

[Leprechaun]

I thought the same but plan on testing them so I know they still work.

Dave.

A few pumps of the pedal to ensure the pads have seated and the pistons have pressed up tight will do the job. I'd be more worried about checking that the wheel nuts are tight.

 

[Al]

no need to bed in brake pads

 

[Dave]

Cheers, I was always under the impression you needed to but yes I gave the pedal a few pumps until it stayed in the same spot instead of going down abit more then usual.


Dave.

 

[Krankin]

As you mentioned before, everyone has their own way.....

Considering the manufacturers recommend machining the rotors when fitting new pads and then bedding them in....but hey thats just the manufacturers.

each to their own.

 

[the_bluester]

I bed mine in by exactly the process you listed. The one set I did not do that with glazed up fairly quickly.

In the race car I go a step further and the last stage is a series of crash stops from about 150KMH to walking pace with enough time between to allow things to cool. They smoke and fizzle afterwards which says to me that there are still volatile solvents in there that need boiling off.

 

[Leprechaun]

I bed mine in by exactly the process you listed. The one set I did not do that with glazed up fairly quickly.

In the race car I go a step further and the last stage is a series of crash stops from about 150KMH to walking pace with enough time between to allow things to cool. They smoke and fizzle afterwards which says to me that there are still volatile solvents in there that need boiling off.

Aren't those volatile solvents holding the brake materials together??, By removing the solvents as you describe, would leave microscopic voids in the pad material making them less dense. So I would think cooking the crap out of them would have a negative effect and should be avoided.

 

[Leprechaun]

From Bendix website.

Bedding-In Procedure*

To maximise the performance of brake pads, it is essential that they are bedded in correctly as follows:

Accelerate vehicle to 50km/h

Apply brakes using moderate to firm pedal effort, reducing speed to 5 km/h

Drive 200m – 300m accelerating to 50 km/h

Repeat steps 1 to 3 between 8 - 10 times


* No Bedding-In procedure required for products that feature Titanium Stripe.


Their bed in process is normal driving conditions going to work for me.

 

[Krankin]

From Bendix website.

Bedding-In Procedure*

To maximise the performance of brake pads, it is essential that they are bedded in correctly as follows:

Accelerate vehicle to 50km/h

Apply brakes using moderate to firm pedal effort, reducing speed to 5 km/h

Drive 200m – 300m accelerating to 50 km/h

Repeat steps 1 to 3 between 8 - 10 times


* No Bedding-In procedure required for products that feature Titanium Stripe.


Their bed in process is normal driving conditions going to work for me.

So which side of the fence are you sitting on now,
To bed or not to bed

 

[Leprechaun]

So which side of the fence are you sitting on now,
To bed or not to bed

I still wouldn't bother specifically bedding in the pads after changing them, I personally think normal driving is sufficient.

I never believed in machining the rotors, but I had to once for a roadworthy, Got to say it made a huge difference on the brake test, I remember it scored around 98%.
But I think once the rotors polish up, the effect will fade, and the disc is thinner which isn't a good thing. So I don't bother machining the discs either unless they've warped badly.

I suppose the best advice would be to do as you stated and follow the manufacturers guidelines. Not what someone on a forum told you to do!

 

[slyd40]

i am a mechanic by trade and beding brakes is a must only very few brands dont have to be bed in eg bendix (shit pads and i know i have opened a big can of worms but i fit brakes dalily and had nothing but shudder problems with bendix pads ) and also machining of the disc is not a must but best to do for new pads for better surface and if done by a brake place eg i use abs in seaford they use stone machining not blade so it comes with a better surface and only takes very little off you disc

 

[Dave]

i am a mechanic by trade and beding brakes is a must only very few brands dont have to be bed in eg bendix (shit pads and i know i have opened a big can of worms but i fit brakes dalily and had nothing but shudder problems with bendix pads ) and also machining of the disc is not a must but best to do for new pads for better surface and if done by a brake place eg i use abs in seaford they use stone machining not blade so it comes with a better surface and only takes very little off you disc

I removed Bendix pads and went back to standard as I hated the Bendix pads.

Got very bad shuddering under hard braking and no more groning from the front end under braking.

Dave.

 

[the_bluester]

Aren't those volatile solvents holding the brake materials together??, By removing the solvents as you describe, would leave microscopic voids in the pad material making them less dense. So I would think cooking the crap out of them would have a negative effect and should be avoided.

Nope. In fact until they are gone you can consider the pads to be green and have to treat them with a degree of caution, most new road pads do not suffer from it much but if the pads have solvents and binders that boil off they will outgass heavily when you work them hard until it is gone. If it is bad enough you can get what is known as "Green fade" where the outgassing forms a barrier between the pad and rotor and you get a lovely hard pedal along with a car that just will not stop! I have had it happen once when bedding pads (Basically means I went a touch too hard too early) and I can tell you it is pretty frightening when you have a great feeling pedal, bugger all front brakes and the rears locked up leading to the car trying to swap ends. Luckily where I did it was on an airfield and I had a couple of thousand feet of runway to play with rather than looking at armco or concrete.

Regards Bendix pads, the only ones I will fit are Ultimate compound, I wont touch any others.

 

[jayk]

oops i use to use bendix heavy duty in my falcon ute. i brake tested just to make sure i put em in right.(i'm not very mechanical).. i went through them every 6 months with the towing i do.
with the nav i'll go factory spec after what you fellas have said.

 

[Dave]

The factory spec pads pull up the the nav heaps better then the bendix pads.

Dave.

 

[steve4wdin]

I had bendix on a falcon XR6 once use to get brake fade bad. It was very concerning when trying to stop and your in gods hands. I would only machine rotors if scored or wrarped
Steve

 

[Aussie Frontier]

I used full ceramic pads from Hawke Racing in the US and they have a bed in process like mentioned before.
Its hard as some pads need bedding and others dont so pretty much go with the manufacturers suggested methods I reckon.