V9X Engine Failure??

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Adhaul

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2011 STX Navara, 220,000 km engine rattle (sounded a bit like a loose timing chain, but could be a fuel knock) plenty of oil. Under power on an incline at 100kph engine emitted a loud mechanical 'knock', warning lights came on engine stalled, we rolled into a park bay to discover about a 1/3 litre of oil dripping onto the ground. Towed it to my workshop, expecting the engine to be a timing chain catastrophic fail, however the engine started, albeit with the "rattle" and leaking oil from below the turbo somewhere (can't pinpoint until we either remove the engine or get some access somehow) Any ideas please. I have an oil catch can which gathers an incredible amount of oil, 1/4 litre every 500km, which seems excessive.
It seems through forums that we should be replacing the timing chains and maybe the turbo at this mileage(kilometrage), Ive already had to remove the engine transmission previously due to the valley cover cracking, and really don't want to go through all that again.
We love the vehicle because of it's power and size, so to just replace it seems irrational, given the options available.
Your input would be valuable,
Cheers
 

Old.Tony

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I wonder if the turbo's oil feed lines are leaking? Oil is fed under pressure from the pump to the turbo but should gravity-feed back to the engine. On mine, the return feed is a pipe about 20mm in diameter that feeds into the engine block, I've removed this and pushed an inspection camera up the tube to inspect the turbocharger. I was specifically looking at the lip where the sealant goes, because the oil is not returned under pressure any excess sealant at this point can cause the turbocharger to ooze oil. It would be prudent to look for the staining that is evident from hot diesel oil and see if that leads you to the leak. The rattle could be a leak from the exhaust/EGR tube, my own car's exhaust manifold -> turbocharger joint got a little loose and the gasket turned into a reed like in a woodwind instrument, making my car sound a bit like a poorly played clarinet.

Excessive blowby may be the cause of the large catch can volumes. Diesels are known for more blow-by than usual, but this can be amplified by worn/sticking piston rings, worn bores, the usual culprits. Checking cylinder compression via the glow plug holes is a valuable exercise even if only to discount a problem with cylinder wear, which may then necessitate a rebuild of the engine.

So inspection and compression testing would be my next step.
 

Adhaul

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Appreciate the help, they are so difficult to work on, particularly in the turbo area, you need to be a contortionist.
 

Supermike

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How loud is "loud", don't want to scare you but is the rattle more of a knock? As you say, could be injector rattle but this is more common on the YD25 than it is on the V9X. A loud knock could be a spun shell on either the crankshaft or big end. Wouldn't be the first time I have seen this happen albeit I haven't seen this on the V9X. Lack of lubrication and heat causes the shell bearing to bind up, then will eventually heat seize causing the engine to stall - this could have been the loud knock you heard. When it cools you will be able to start it again, but as heat builds it can likely heat seize again. Did you oil pressure light come on at any stage? If I remember rightly on the back on the V9X engine there is the main oil seal for the crank and then oil lines for the turbo, I can't remember anything else. So it narrows down your search a little. Take a look at parts catalog NISSAN [Europe (left wheel)], original catalog NISSAN [Europe (left wheel)], online catalog NISSAN [Europe (left wheel)], Car catalog NISSAN [Europe (left wheel)] they have exploded parts diagrams. Helps to indentify where stuff is and where it bolts to etc
 

Adhaul

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Update - Engine is now out!! No leaks from turbo area or valley area - which is absolutely bizarre given the volume of fluid dropping on the ground at idle for only 2 minutes. The oil seems to "magically" appear from about halfway up the bell housing, starter motor out, now it's pretty wet inside, so am assuming that the rear main seal is leaking. Now given the "rattle" and 220,000km I think it's wise to strip the engine down and rebuild, plus the blow by is pretty high even for a diesel.
Looking for special tools; cam timing etc: any suggestions can't seem to find any suppliers in Australia suggestions please. Also ant suggestions on rebuild specs I've got the online manual which refers to the SDS but the bearing clearances are not in the details, again any suggestions for that info would be appreciated.
 

Supermike

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Update - Engine is now out!! No leaks from turbo area or valley area - which is absolutely bizarre given the volume of fluid dropping on the ground at idle for only 2 minutes. The oil seems to "magically" appear from about halfway up the bell housing, starter motor out, now it's pretty wet inside, so am assuming that the rear main seal is leaking. Now given the "rattle" and 220,000km I think it's wise to strip the engine down and rebuild, plus the blow by is pretty high even for a diesel.
Looking for special tools; cam timing etc: any suggestions can't seem to find any suppliers in Australia suggestions please. Also ant suggestions on rebuild specs I've got the online manual which refers to the SDS but the bearing clearances are not in the details, again any suggestions for that info would be appreciated.
I have the manual if that helps?
 

Supermike

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Just had a quick read through the timing chain section. Doesn't appear to be any special tools required, just need a couple of hardened 0.5mm pins for tensioners.
 

Adhaul

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I have a manual which calls up the following special tools MOT 1771 Crank Lock tool, Cam Gear Positioning Tool MOT1773, TDC Set Pin MOT1874 and a Cam Timing Tool MOT1880
Any help even if it is the critical dimensions so I can manufacture the item would be appreciated
 

Supermike

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I have a manual which calls up the following special tools MOT 1771 Crank Lock tool, Cam Gear Positioning Tool MOT1773, TDC Set Pin MOT1874 and a Cam Timing Tool MOT1880
Any help even if it is the critical dimensions so I can manufacture the item would be appreciated
You might want to check your manual. Are those tools not for the 2.0 DCi engine? I can send you the manual I have for the V9X if you want?

Mike
 

Adhaul

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I have the manual if that helps?
Hey Super Mike,
I'd love a copy of your manual, email address "adhaul@icloud.com" , we can never have too much information. My workshop manual calls up these tools I've named however there are two which I really need the crank stop pin (or dimensions so I can manufacture) and the cam shaft lock tools - I'm not sure what they actually do yet, obviously they set up the cam timing but the compensator is new to me.
Now for some information about the "reliability" of these engines - first I'm a mechanic and have changed the oil and filter at 10,000km intervals religiously, it really needs to be 5000km intervals I think, second, I also run a fleet of trucks (Mercedes Benz 50 - 75 tonne prime movers) they have similar oil change intervals, do a hell of a lot more work and have regularly run trouble free for over 700,000km and are still going, so when some one reports that the nissan/renault V9X is soooooo! reliable at 300,000km I'm not really impressed. All my issues started at 85,000km and have revolved around EGR and oil leaks, the vehicle is excellent and tows well, (I've only really towed a caravan of about 2200kg for approx 5000km) but soooo! F.....n unreliable. Oh the blow by is incredible a 12 litre truck has less.
So yes I'm going to fully rebuild this tiny weeny engine and put it on the market, someone will want a "really reliable" Nissan 550 and pay a premium I hope.
 

Supermike

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Hey Super Mike,
I'd love a copy of your manual, email address "adhaul@icloud.com" , we can never have too much information. My workshop manual calls up these tools I've named however there are two which I really need the crank stop pin (or dimensions so I can manufacture) and the cam shaft lock tools - I'm not sure what they actually do yet, obviously they set up the cam timing but the compensator is new to me.
Now for some information about the "reliability" of these engines - first I'm a mechanic and have changed the oil and filter at 10,000km intervals religiously, it really needs to be 5000km intervals I think, second, I also run a fleet of trucks (Mercedes Benz 50 - 75 tonne prime movers) they have similar oil change intervals, do a hell of a lot more work and have regularly run trouble free for over 700,000km and are still going, so when some one reports that the nissan/renault V9X is soooooo! reliable at 300,000km I'm not really impressed. All my issues started at 85,000km and have revolved around EGR and oil leaks, the vehicle is excellent and tows well, (I've only really towed a caravan of about 2200kg for approx 5000km) but soooo! F.....n unreliable. Oh the blow by is incredible a 12 litre truck has less.
So yes I'm going to fully rebuild this tiny weeny engine and put it on the market, someone will want a "really reliable" Nissan 550 and pay a premium I hope.
You should hopefully have an email to access to GDrive with the manual for engine. I have all the manuals for everything else too but takes ages to upload.

Like wise, should anyone else need to have a look at the manuals just ping me a note and I'll try and get them uploaded to view.
 

Adhaul

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You should hopefully have an email to access to GDrive with the manual for engine. I have all the manuals for everything else too but takes ages to upload.

Like wise, should anyone else need to have a look at the manuals just ping me a note and I'll try and get them uploaded to view.
Thanks so much appreciate the help - cars are really built to become obsolete, so that manufacturers stay in business. I remember a conference by one of the big manufacturers who said it was their intent to get car owners to be paying $X's per week (on the drip - so to speak) for ever, to have the privilege to drive a car.
 

pol327

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Cars are not made to become obsolete its just a fact of life that every thing eventually wears out, unfortunately some before others for a myriad of reasons, poor service/maintenance, manufacturing faults, improper use, abuse, design faults and the list goes on and on. If manufactures only made one model and the production ran for 50 years then there would always be parts and they would be cheap.

The problem is that people are not happy with that and manufactures make new models each year and continually alter and change everything. Hence even since the early 1970's when I did my apprenticeship manufactures where only liable to carry spare parts for a 7 year period beyond a cars production date and that 7 years is the usable life span of that vehicle. Given that, about 3 weeks ago I went to buy a drive shaft center bearing for my 2014 D40 from Nissan and that part is now "obsolete".

Here in Australia past generations have stretched the use of vehicles well beyond that use-by date by patching them up and keeping them on the road. This is also for a number of reasons and primarily the cost of buying new vehicles over a persons disposable income, in other words the majority of people cannot afford to up date vehicles that often or prefer to spend their income on other luxury items like TV's and holidays.
The fact is regardless of how you look at it, it does cost 'X' amount of dollars over any given time period to own anything, it just depends on what basis you do the calculation, that is weekly, monthly or yearly.

On the "oil issue". I have spent more that 30 years involved with oil sampling of diesel engines and I can say with a high percentage of accuracy that after 5000 km's or 250 hours of use, the engine oil requires replacing along with the oil filter. The fact is after 5000 km the oil is saturated with blow-by pollutants and its ability to hold and suspend these 'nasties' diminishes considerably. The oil will keep lubricating however the solids and acids will start to do damage to internal components and the deposits the oil was designed to 'hold' will adhere to internal components, this accelerates wear of internal components.
The main part of the gas that leaks down to the crankcase is air but it also contains other particles such as residual deposits e.g. CO2, CO, O2, NOx and H2O, unburned fuel and soot. The amount of unburned fuel can be as high as 2000 ppm.

Extended oil change intervals where introduced by manufacturers to make the servicing of vehicles appear cheap to customers, a sales gimmick. So long as the vehicle lasted at least the 7 years then all was good.
 

Adhaul

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Okay I have now stripped the engine - main bearings have spun in the block. Very unusual setup as there are no tangs or locating lugs for the bearings to prevent them from turning, it seems interference only restrains them from rotating. According to my local machine shop block is U/S and requires replacing.
Any solutions, is there someone out there that can rework the bearing housings, we can grind the crank and install oversize bearings apparently they are available, the really weird thing is the bigend bearings are actually quite good.
I've so far been advised to go to wreckers, I'd only be getting another worn out engine - solutions??
Someone had a post up sometime back advising where you could purchase oversize bearings does anyone know of a supplier
 
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bendara

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After reading this I'm now going to be doing oil/filter changes every 7500 km not at 10 k.
 

Adhaul

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Any chance of telling us the oil you been using?
Caltex Delo 400 XLE Synblend SAE 10W-30 We use that oil in our Benz truck fleet never had any issues
I'm interested in your thoughts
I am now in the process of line boring the block, to fit larger bearings and "cold chroming" the crank (I think that's what they call it) to up size the main journals have some bearings from a Toyota (apparently) that are the right size supplied by ANL bearings in Tasmania
At this point in time I'm of the opinion that the bearings are too small for the task only 20mm wide should be 40mm plus, particularly with the upgrade chip.
 
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Old.Tony

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^ That's likely a design compromise. If you had 4 main bearings each 20mm wider than now, you'd have to lengthen the engine by 80mm and the V9X powerplant has very little room as it is!
 

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