My understanding is that they're a Thai build. A quick check of a VIN (the first half dozen digits) should tell us.
Show the temp in your dash
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My understanding is that they're a Thai build. A quick check of a VIN (the first half dozen digits) should tell us.
I've just discovered that the VS at the start of my VIN number indicates "Built in Spain". Vehicles built in Thailand should have ML, MM, MN, MO, MP, MQ or MR at the start of their VINs.
K
KraftyPg
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JPMC hasn't actually said I don't think but if you're nice and say pretty please you might get an answer
Checked my rego details and VIN starts with a M... will have to go back to the dealer and ask again.
Thanks
Andrew
Aussie Frontier
Member
My understanding is that the ST-X is still made in Spain and most other models are made in Thailand . Am sure someone will be able to give more light on this.
Leprechaun
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You trust a salesman? Tell you anything to get your signature on the dotted line.
JPMC
Member
It was purchased from a wee electronics shop called South Island Componet Centre.
Sorry but I don't know what the part number is.
I remember there was three options: NTC, PTC and a special Temp one.
Not sure which one I got but I do remember that the nominal temp or what ever it was, was 25 deg instead of 20 deg like the Factory Nissan one but the one I got matched up to the almost identically to the factory one on the graph of figures I had for the factory item. Hence why it is out at neg temps and maybe out higher in the temp zone also (as already said only tested to 28deg and spot on but at -4 outside dash shows -6).
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JPMC
Member
As far as I'm awhere you spot on there.
sypher
Member
There is room in the dash in the ST to show the temp. Tony will back me up on this. In the sun you can plainly see the numbers and the degrees Celcius symbol.
Shaun
Shaun
Yep, the ST sure has the spot, so the instrument cluster is probably sourced from the same place or at least made to the exact same specification as the STX's.
What's to be determined now is how much of the wiring is actually in the ST. As we know, the STX had everything except the bloody sensor itself - you sorta wonder why they stopped just short of the magic moment sorta thing.
In the ST, is there any wiring heading into the engine bay at all, or is it missing all the way?
According to my D40 manual (in DI.pdf, page 6 of 70), pin 49 of the "combination meter" (instrument cluster) is the outbound signal and pin 50 is the inbound signal.
Worst case - assuming the instrument clusters are identical - you could run a pair of wires out from pins 49 and 50, through the firewall into the engine bay and cable-tie them to the framework in front of the intercooler/radiator assembly, where you can stick your thermistor.
I actually found it curious that it refuses to display below -30C or above 60C. There are places on this planet that experience both - is Nissan trying to tell us not to go there?
What's to be determined now is how much of the wiring is actually in the ST. As we know, the STX had everything except the bloody sensor itself - you sorta wonder why they stopped just short of the magic moment sorta thing.
In the ST, is there any wiring heading into the engine bay at all, or is it missing all the way?
According to my D40 manual (in DI.pdf, page 6 of 70), pin 49 of the "combination meter" (instrument cluster) is the outbound signal and pin 50 is the inbound signal.
Worst case - assuming the instrument clusters are identical - you could run a pair of wires out from pins 49 and 50, through the firewall into the engine bay and cable-tie them to the framework in front of the intercooler/radiator assembly, where you can stick your thermistor.
I actually found it curious that it refuses to display below -30C or above 60C. There are places on this planet that experience both - is Nissan trying to tell us not to go there?
K
KraftyPg
Guest
I seem to remember somewhere that Nissan's reasoning for this was because the sensor makes up part of the automatic climate control system and since Nav's don't get that in this country they don't need the sensor. I tend to think it's so they can make more money when Nav drivers realise there is a piece missing
This is because the thermistor that reads below minus 30 and over 60 accurately is worth $2.80 not $1.75, since so few of us need to go to those extremes Nissan made the call to cut costs and go with the cheaper alternative.
Aussie Frontier
Member
The 4x2 doesnt get the harness from the kick panel connector to the dash as its part of the 4x4 selector harness.
I ran those wires myself and no worries at all.
It is the dash cluster itself that drives the sensor not the rest of the harness.If you attach the sensor direct to the 2 pins of the dash cluster it will work. If you need to find something to connect to the dash it just so happens that the standard connector from a PC Motherboard for like the power LED etc will fit perfectly and work faultlessly.
In theory the dash cluster from a Pathy will give you the DTE and extra features in a Navara.The dash cluster is an ECU in its own right and as such the features should all work.
The Frontier Dash does not connect to ours so the extra gauges wont work in ours.
A little light reading from another forum but beware there are tonnes of pages.But there is some info on various things so hope it sheds some light
http://www.clubfrontier.org/forums/f47/finalising-cabin-filters-temp-sensors-36383/
http://www.clubfrontier.org/forums/f47/outside-temperature-guage-12532/
I ran those wires myself and no worries at all.
It is the dash cluster itself that drives the sensor not the rest of the harness.If you attach the sensor direct to the 2 pins of the dash cluster it will work. If you need to find something to connect to the dash it just so happens that the standard connector from a PC Motherboard for like the power LED etc will fit perfectly and work faultlessly.
In theory the dash cluster from a Pathy will give you the DTE and extra features in a Navara.The dash cluster is an ECU in its own right and as such the features should all work.
The Frontier Dash does not connect to ours so the extra gauges wont work in ours.
A little light reading from another forum but beware there are tonnes of pages.But there is some info on various things so hope it sheds some light
http://www.clubfrontier.org/forums/f47/finalising-cabin-filters-temp-sensors-36383/
http://www.clubfrontier.org/forums/f47/outside-temperature-guage-12532/
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Leprechaun
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Here is extract from the manual showing socket M22. The Thai build does not have socket/plug M22! That's why there is no wiring, everything is on our dashes is transmitted through the M23 socket. Refer to my other posts, you can not do this on a Thai build!. If you don't believe me pull your dash out!. Only takes a few hours or so.
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That's a bloody great shame, that is.
d40 abuser
Member
ok i think ive read all this and im still confused or dumb but did anyone get it to work in the 2010 st
No, we didn't.
I removed the sensor from mine, and tried finding the socket in Shaun's ST, and couldn't see one. It appears that while the dash unit might have been made with the area set aside for temperature display, none of the circuitry is actually in place to do it.
d40 abuser
Member
thanks oldtony might pull mine to bits with the auto electrican must be something there and i did buy the sensor before i read all the post lol so i hav to make it work
Take your camera with you just in case you figure it out!
Beergutz
Member
Just an idea but you could maybe get a tone generator/ cable tracer and place it on pin 51 or 50 from memory then see if you can pick up the cable under the bonnet and find if it is present. Anybody who does data cabling will have one or if you near Newcastle i could give you mine to use.
You will simply have to attach it to the pin where it will generate a tone down the cable and can be picked up by a receiver that emits a warbley tone when you locate it near the cable in question. If its not present you wont get a signal or if it terminates somewhere under the bonnet you may be able to extend the loam to where the sensor sits in front of the radiator.
You will simply have to attach it to the pin where it will generate a tone down the cable and can be picked up by a receiver that emits a warbley tone when you locate it near the cable in question. If its not present you wont get a signal or if it terminates somewhere under the bonnet you may be able to extend the loam to where the sensor sits in front of the radiator.
