Joe's Cape York Trip 2014

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180%JOE

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Hi all, I thought I would share my Cape York experience with you all. It was great fun and I’m glad I finally got to go. This is Write up Part One of our Trip (Part two as soon as I have time) as there is so much to fit in. Below is a trip report and after that I will have all the information for people to use for their own trips to the cape. I will have Fuel consumption and prices as well as camping prices and other associated info.

PART ONE TRIP REPORT:

So For our trip we had 12 vehicles in total;

My Navara D22, Ford Ranger with custom slip on unit, 200 series Landcruiser with camper, Mazda BT50, Hilux ute, V8 Troopy, Nissan Patrol and new camper, FJ Cruiser and 4 Prados.

So with 48 people we headed off to the cape Leaving from our meeting place at Cairns BCF (I had to stop in at repco as I blew a turbo hose outside of Innisfail). We left on 18th June and returned the 12th July. After final checks and fuel stops we began our journey towards the Daintree River Ferry. After paying $13 one way we originally decided to take the CREB track to get to the Lion’s Den Hotel. But after a really late wet season (Only stopped raining up there the day before we hit cairns) it was still closed so we went with plan B, which was through the Daintree NP, Cape Tribulation and Wujal Wujal to get to our first camp at Lion’s Den Hotel. This Pub was my all-time favourite. We met some local farmers (Jack) at the pub and had a great night with the bar girls and storytelling over a few cold beers. The next morning we lined our cars up outside the hotel for our first relatively clean group shot.



From here we made our way to Cooktown. This was our last stop for fuel for a couple of days until we hit Musgrave. So everyone fueled up, most of the group had long range tanks, and only two took petrol. I have the standard tank so I took only one jerry can extra. (My dad and I had an argument about taking one more jerry for fuel. I wanted to and he didn't, dad wanted extra water.). After stopping to eat and explore Cooktown we moved on to reach Endeavour Falls. We left there and proceeded through Hope Vale (We got lost and circled the aboriginal community of Hope Vale several times, so we got to see the whole town. Even though most of the group had Hema maps…) we went the back way to reach the Starcke track. This is where the adventure really started. We aired down our tyres and began the slow crawl through the track. What made this so hard was due to the cyclone that hit end of last year all the trees came down over most of the track. So we had to take detours around them which made it super slow and a lot more fuel consumed. Also it appears that we were the first ones using this track this season, it was so overgrown and the track disappeared at times.

About a few hours in we lost the track and thought with light fading it was best to set up camp. We camped on a small clearing on the track which just fit us all in. It was a good night with fires and a few more beers. This is where my fridge started to play up, two days from any town. I had checked everything and couldn't work out why there was a warning light. I had pulled the fridge apart and with the help of one of the group we thought I would have to ship in a part to Musgrave and fix it there which is three or more days away. I put most of our frozen meat into another person’s freezer and the rest in his fridge. Good time for fridge problems. After telling a few of the others about my issues two of the guys came to take another look. Being electricians they had a lot of gear with them and they set about testing everything. We worked out the fridge was good and something must be wrong with the dual battery. So that was better news.




In the morning we found the track again and kept moving to reach Wakooka. From Wakooka it was 50-60km to reach our destination of Cape Melville. We finally hit the Cape and the view was well worth the drive.



We pulled out onto the sandy beach and explored up and down to find the perfect campsite. A word of advice, there are hundreds of massive prickles in the sand which sucked, they pierced tent floors and tarps. We used a sand mat which helped but you have to wear shoes all the time. We set up a camp which was to be home for two nights then took our rods and went fishing. Didn't catch anything but had an awesome fire that night. The next day we went to the rock pools nearby and had a swim and freshen up. Did some more fishing, there was a couple of flattys caught and a tarpon looking thing. The 200 series decided to get itself really bogged in soft wet sand.
 


I finally fixed my fridge. I rewired the whole setup and bypassed my second battery in the engine bay and used the third battery in the canopy. Hooray! I also fixed an issue with my awning led lights which was a broken wire from the 4x4 driving. We had a great camp oven roast that night to top the day off.

On the 25th we left Melville and headed to Old Kalpowar then on to Bathurst Heads. The trip out to the heads was hard. It was still very wet and muddy. (45kms in three hours hard) There was a stretch of mud for a couple of hundred metres that was insane. The trailers had to be snatched out it was too hard and most of us got through.



 
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Once through this section it was just as hard. The track had no use by vehicles and was also hard to follow even with the best upgraded hema maps. We had to drive on mud flats and over muddy creeks. A few got stuck here as well.




We drove through rainforests with logs and trees down and through car high grass. We climbed over rocks and finally made it to Bathurst Heads. There is a good camp ground right on the beach. Was a top spot. The next morning we explored the headlands and went fishing. I caught my very first Barra here. First cast off the rocks and was hooked up right at my feet. With a few jumps I pulled it in to the beach, I was stoked. Went 60cm. The others caught another three in the same area before the kids spooked the rest.


 
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We then set off heading to Musgrave Roadhouse. This was a 200km journey back out through all the tough stuff. This was the first and only time I got stuck. I came to a fork in the track and one way was mud and the other was mud flats. I said to Mario behind me which way and he didn't know so I went left and told him to go right. I started off pretty well, mud was flying everywhere. Then I gained a bit more speed, there was a flat patch with no ruts and I hit that and went sideways, nothing I could do made a difference and I was stuck in a swamp. I had to be snatched out.




We made it back with only a few snatches for the others. We stopped for lunch and a few others decided to press on and meet us at Musgrave. We continued on and a couple of hours later my fuel was getting low. I radioed the others to let them know. I had used my jerry up as well. We were only 80km out of Musgrave. The plan was that two others had extra fuel that I was going to buy off them and use. This was going to work great but they were in the group that went ahead and now out of radio range. So Plan B again. I tried to siphon out of a couple of prados but new designs meant that they had anti-siphoning devices so we had to drop fuel out of the fuel tank bung on the bottom of the tank. We set up over a concrete river causeway and used the Troopy as it was the easiest to get to. We siphoned off 15L and we were back on our way finally. Not long after this a roo came bounding over the road and straight into my bulbar, no damage for me thank god, the roo didn’t get up. Just about 40kms outside Musgrave Greg in the Patrol radioed that he too was now on fumes after towing the camper through all the hard stuff. We didn't have any more fuel left to spare so we stood there scratching our heads when someone came up with the bright idea that there was 5L of fuel in his camper’s diesel heater. So we used that and made it to Musgrave to refuel.
 
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We stayed the night here in the campground. Finally we had hot showers and they felt great. I bought another carton of beer here ready for the next section of our trip. We drove through to Coen where I filled up again then to Bramwell Roadhouse. I filled up here as it is the last fuel for the Old Telegraph Track. It was getting late after the day's big drive and we pressed on to the start of the OTL Track. Just after we left the OTL sign Ken was stuck. He had moved off the track to let another car through and then wedged himself getting back in.



After helping Ken we stopped at the famous first crossing of the OTL, Palm Creek. While the others looked at what was ahead I pushed through the group and positioned myself at the top of the drop into the creek.



Some weren’t too sure about starting the track so late, they decided to camp on that side of the creek. I went ahead, down the drop off and into the creek. There are two tracks to take to exit the other side, one left, which was muddy and steep and had logs/step ups or the right which was steep and loose dirt with a few ruts. I chose left as it was the harder track. I went straight in and was soon in a mud puddle up the doors, the next part was where it got super difficult. I tried my best to climb the rocky, muddy step but couldn’t make it over even with all the help from my lokka. I tried another time a bit faster, no good. Third time lucky I thought… Hit it with some more speed and I slipped right into the driver’s side bank and smashed my mirror to bits and dented my bulbar wing in.




That was enough I thought, I could have winched up and out but as it was getting dark I reversed back out and took the right track which I drove straight up. Three more cars followed me and we camped at the top of the track. We started the fire and had a few beers to celebrate being on the start of the Old Telegraph Track.
 
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Thanks for sharing Joe. We are heading up next year so look forward to seeing Part 2!
Great write-up and pics.
 
As above brings back heaps of memories Joe ,the Bloomfield track had just gone through when I went up with my late dad. We got pelted with rocks and bottles at Wujall Wujall The locals hated anyone on that road in the 80's. Thanks for your time and effort to post this mate.
 
mate what a fantastic trip so far, makes me wanna pack up and get out of here!!! nice write up keep it coming.
 
What an awesome trip and an excellent write up,cant wait for part 2.
you've created some great memories there with a very cool adventure, nice work dude.
 
Nice work Joe... Thanks for sharing. I spent 12 hours heading to cape Melville from Hopevale one year memories to last a lifetime up there...
 
Joe this was the trip you did with our friends from maryborough brett and cassie! Did you hear that their prado is a wright off after its little dip the mud on the way to the tip?

Look forward to seeing the rest of your report, im in cairns on my way back from the tip now.

Cheers
Bryan
 
Hi Bryan, How did your trip go?
Yeah I heard they got written off. They have another prado now though.
4 naving I will explain all in the next few parts of the write up ;)
 
Part two

Part Two...

The next morning we helped all the others over the creek. With almost all of them, we snatched them over the top after they had a go at climbing the slippery creek wall. Finally after the last truck was over we began our way along the Tele track.

Moving our way along we all got through the second crossing. Then, through North and South Alice crossings which from memory where easy. We stopped at one of the crossings for lunch and a quick tub of the cars. While here a few of the group patched their cars up. Duct tape and zip ties are now holding a lot of rear bumpers, side panels and side steps in place.



We crossed the Dulhunty by driving right on the bank and straight over to the exit. It wasn’t too bad either. A few kms up the road we began to see the signs for Gunshot. I was getting excited as I’ve always wanted to drive it. I was at the back area of our group when we arrived. It was one of those times where everyone gets out to have a sticky and yarn about which track to take. Upon reaching the original gunshot I bounded over to the drop off. I looked down and straight away knew there was no way anyone would be using this track! It was a straight down 2m+ vertical drop which would just eat your car up then roll it on its roof. The track to its left was just as bad, both these ways haven’t been attempted in a while by looking at them. There was one more to the right of the original but it had a really bad camber and exit. So to the extreme left was two of the last ways down. I was not going to go the bypass after coming all this way!
Scott, the lead car, took the first one of those tracks with camper in tow. He did incredibly well but right at the bottom there was a large rock on the right to manoeuvre past. The camper wasn’t helping and pulled him into the rock; his front lower wheel arch took the pounding and came off second best, what’s a little more damage to the 200 series. The next car took the other track and nosedived down and out the other side so a few more of our group followed, and then it was Ken’s turn in the Ranger. He took it easy and edged it over, the weight of his fully loaded truck was close to 4 tonne, it slid rather gracefully into the mud pit nose first. After a bit of right foot the nose dug out of the mud and edged forward. The rear however wedged firmly into the bank and kept his wheels high and dry. Out came the snatch strap, we hooked it up to the recovery point of the BT-50 and the other end to Ken’s dyneema bridle; we placed a dampener neatly halfway. The BT-50 walked forward and took up the tension, for a moment his lard ass Ranger began to inch forward. Then “bang”, the dyneema bridle let go with tremendous pressure. The now loose strap rocketed back into the rear of the BT and whipped around the left side. We checked to see if everyone was ok and then we saw the impact damage, the tailgate took the brunt right above the numberplate and was dented in and the strap was imprinted in the paint. It also whipped around and dented the left side before dropping to the ground. We all wondered what could have happened without the dampener. Just goes to show the immense stress recovery gear can be put under and the potential damage it could do to you without the proper safety procedures used.

(Pic of bt50 damage to come still...)



While Ken finally winched himself out I decided to take the other track which damaged the 200 series. I crawled down the undulations and saw the rock, I kept far left and started to climb the bank just to avoid the collision. I narrowly missed the rock and powered through gunshot creek and out the other side unscathed.

(Pic of me gunshot to come...)

From here we continued on a few kms and came to Cookatoo Creek. As with all the crossings the cars in front would get out and walk the creeks first. For this one there were a few wheel eating holes around so we staggered people at these and made a path to drive through. After getting everyone across we drove up the hill to our camp for the night. These campgrounds have composting toilets and a covered camp kitchen area. As our group is so large we all spread out that night. The lucky few got a great camp site which has a fire pit which overlooks the creek! This is where we all met up for a drink or two or three later that evening. We also all freshened up in the creek (We did see crocodile warning signs there but as it was crystal clear and 40 people watching we took the risk).

 

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