D22 YD25 massive drama help

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johnbritto

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i have a problem with my 2009 d22 has yd 2.5 moter . ill try to explain what has happened and what i have done to try and solv the problem and i would apreciate no smart ass comments as this could and up an important problem solving thread . 1st of all the symptoms . i was on my way home from sofale at christmas when it first happenen pulled out up the hill and the nav seemed to go into limp mode got to top of hill and shut her down pumped the primer about 6 times and all good got to merriwa same thing then about 10 more times before i got home to raymond terrace . next day changed fuel filter slight improvement then same shit all over again ... today i drained fuel tank and replaced fueel filter again still no change cleaned sensors maf sensor egr sensor and also unpluged and cleaned conector for cr sensor still no change the car will idel for a moment then cut out all together and also wont rev up normaly like someone has stuffed a plastic bag down its throat . at the moment i have the egr sensor disconected and it is the only way i can get the thing over 1500 rpm i have also checked the neatural position switch no problem there as far as i can tell imm baffeled car has 120000 on it and till now never a problem has enyone else had these problems i only get 1 day a week at home and nissan dont open sunday if there is anyone in newcastle area that would be interested in meeting up and swaping around a couple of sensors id be more than greatfull it may help me narrow down what the problem could be pm me if your keen to help any other advice would also be apreciated ill check the site in the morning:shotgun::shotgun::shotgun:
 
Sorry to hear your dramas and I hope it gets resolved.

Does the car start fine? If not you may have a timing chain issue. But the fact it can't get to 1500rpm without dieing out has got me stumped. Have you checked the sensor around the timing chain don't know it's exact location. Pull it out and try that. Have you got a busted intercooler? Boost leak maybe or even a faulty hose on a turbo. Reason I say turbo is cause around 1200 rpm is when the turbo is wanting to start hitting higher boost.

Goodluck
 
Sorry to hear about your problems. Have you cleaned the mass air sensor at the air filter. Also check the crank angle sensor, it,s under the car near the sump. Are you using genuine fuel filters also. The after market ones don't come with the extra o rings you need. Have you done the EGR block mod. If not remove the hose from the itercooler to the inlet manifold and see if it's blocked up with crap. It can happen.

Keep us posted it should be able to be figured out by someone on the forum. Their has been a lot of problems solved over the year on here.

Cheers
 
I think this one needs to be listened to. There are a few possibilities for it. Just for starters, disconnect the NPS and get that right out of the way. To diagnose the problem with the least amount of expense, we have to remove all of the possible causes that don't cost anything to do.

Pop the bonnet and have someone rev the engine to 2500rpm. If the air hose between the turbo and the intercooler (or intercooler and intake manifold) collapses, you're sucking more air than the car's capable of getting so it's either one of these two:

1) Turbo not spooling. This could be turbo failure, it could be a sticky wastegate, the actuator may not be working (faulty actuator, faulty vacuum hose).

2) You could have a great big fat bird in your snorkel (don't laugh, it's happened before). Check to see that the grill of the snorkel hasn't been damaged. It could be a clogged air filter or something wrong in the baffle, it's worth holding the air filter in place with the top off and cranking the engine over to listen for the sound it makes and see if it revs any more freely.

If the air is okay and you're sure the turbo is actually spinning (and hasn't failed - open it and spin the impeller - cold engine!! - it should spin smoothly and the shaft shouldn't wobble) then it could be fuel-related (it could also be timing-related, that's next).

3) Check the hoses around the fuel filter and the primer bulb for cracking or hardening. Look for hose clamps that are too tight - they'll pinch the hose and allow air in.

Is there a lot of black smoke when you put your foot down and it "limps"? If so, it is definitely getting the fuel, it's probably 1 or 2 or it's timing. If not,

4) If you're not confident that you have a lot of fuel flow (which is hard to tell unless you put a clear section of hose on the outlet of the fuel filter to the pump) then maybe the fuel pickup is partially blocked. It'll let a certain amount of fuel flow through, but when a high demand is placed on it, the restriction is too much. This would also happen if the fuel hose had been clamped, like it was jammed above the tank when the tank was remounted. Have you had a long-range tank fitted, or any other fuel tank work recently?

Failing a fuel problem, the only other thing it could be is timing, and there are two main influences for this.

5) CAS. Without knowing the proper position of the crankshaft, the ECU can't inject the fuel at the right time. A misalignment of the CAS puts the timing out of whack. It's something I'd ask Nissan to check.

6) Timing chain. Had to say it - the YD25 chains aren't perfect. Not a huge number of them break, but enough cause trouble to warrant us thinking about it. Best way to tell is to grab a $25 mechanic's stethoscope from SCA and have a listen to the housing at the front of the motor.

I think there's enough there to start with. There are other possibilities but you end up with a sore head reading this much guff, so let us know how it goes.

Personally I'd be checking the fuel pickup after the visual checks in the engine bay, because it sounds like (a) you've got a minor clamping issue at the front of the fuel tank allowing air to be drawn in under extreme suction and b) something's blocking the pickup inside the tank, which causes the extreme suction AND loss of power - but this guess is based on NOT knowing whether you're blowing heaps of smoke or not.
 
I can call past with a torque app and read any fault codes if that helps?
pm me if needed
cheers
 
old tony

thanks old tony I have cleaned the maf sensoer near the air cleaner and when I drained the tank I never actualy removed it I removed hose at fuel filter and using low preasure blew the fuel through into a bucket and inspected the fuel as I emptied each bucket was a long and tedious process. as for cas I havnt checked that yet I have disconnected nps and problem the same ive flashed the ecu and also listened to timing chain im sort of stuck on one of three sensors being MAF ... EGR.... or the comen rail pressure sensor but because no idiot lights are coming up on dash I think ist going to be a hard one to sort im happy to spend money to fix it but I don't want to waist money in things I don't need I have sent a pm to sparr04 and hopefully he can plug into my car and tell me what I don't need apart from that keep the feedback coming if anyone would like to offer any advice over the phone my number is 0410968449 I live Raymond terrace if anyone is passing by today im home all day but have to go to work tomorrow
 
maybe

I was just reading a thread on sparras timing chain poll one guy said Nissan changed timing chain due fluctuating idel then it was found to be the suction controle vaulve this is one of my symptoms does anyone know where to find suction controle vaulve
 
It may not be necessary to replace the SCV either - it might only need a clean.

Remove it - it's part of the fuel pump on the right-hand-side of the motor below the intake manifold towards the front of the engine. Clean it (there's not much to it) and reinstall. Prime the fuel line just in case, then take it for a drive.
 
getting somewhere

many thanks to sparr04 who wouldn't even take a cold beer on a sweltering day I now have a fault code P1274 powertrain related and now im calling on old tony cause sparra said he might know what it may mean also if any one interested I have been at repco if youre in need if crank idel or cam idel sensors $130 each way better than genuine Nissan price and im waiting on price for complete timing chain and tensioner kit will have Monday chain only $58 probably about $300 for whole kit ill let u know and frim what I can see the job wouldn't be to hard remove intercooler and rocker cover and timing cover get #1 top dead center and away u go im going to do mine regardless of what this problem I have is and ill let u all know how big a job it is now over to you old tony for my fault code
 
In the YD motor, P1274 means the fuel rail pressure is too high. It lists possible causes as the harness has a problem (dirty connections, shorted wiring), a faulty fuel pump or a faulty fuel rail pressure sensor.

Don't take it to Nissan unless it's got a warranty. Step 2 in their diagnosis is to replace the fuel rail and you do NOT want to be paying for that - or the fuel pump. Costs will hit somewhere around $7-8K before too long.

Do you have a chip? Disable it and see what happens.
 
believe me mate I wanted that beer soooo bad
but ime kickin this filthy smoking habit, no excuses (this time)11wks so far
not counting the 2 or 3 on nye
 
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many thanks to sparr04 who wouldn't even take a cold beer on a sweltering day I now have a fault code P1274 powertrain related and now im calling on old tony cause sparra said he might know what it may mean also if any one interested I have been at repco if youre in need if crank idel or cam idel sensors $130 each way better than genuine Nissan price and im waiting on price for complete timing chain and tensioner kit will have Monday chain only $58 probably about $300 for whole kit ill let u know and frim what I can see the job wouldn't be to hard remove intercooler and rocker cover and timing cover get #1 top dead center and away u go im going to do mine regardless of what this problem I have is and ill let u all know how big a job it is now over to you old tony for my fault code

Hay. Johngritto. Changing the timing chain in the D22 is a bitch of a job. You will need to remove a lot more than just the rocker cover. You have to remove the sump, so that means lowering the front diff and separating the gear box from the back of the engine to remove two bolts. EGR pipe and radiator need removing also. Their are four or five timing marks also. Both cams crank fuel pump etc. you have to do all that because of the oil pump pickup tube being in the way. Been their and done it. Just thought you should know.

Cheers Brad.
 
thanks tony that's not what I wanted to hear I was hoping for a single injector or all 4 as for taking to Nissan no warranty is gone for 2 years now but who else can give the correct diagnosis and if worse case how do I justify spending over 6 grand on a 5 yearold car that only wholesales for about 13000 yet if it aint running its just a ****en boat anchor guess ill start looking at prices on epay for reco rails and pumps just incase I realy don't get this ive maintained this engine prity well I thought and my plan when I bought the car was that it would last me atleast ten years I expected to have to hot set it and probably even replace injectors but the whole pump and or rail come on that realy is a joke don't u think for its age and ks if its stuffed ill just sell the whole unit for its drive train price any offers and then ill go out and buy an old kingswood the things can be cooked and all u need to do is remove the thermostat replace a head gaskit and your back on the road in an hour I had one when I was younger and I done 200000 between swaping moters and they only cost 50 bucks at wreakers then throw a set of rings in it job was easy could do the lot in a day ..... im slightly pissed offff
 
Mine throws a fuel rail pressure code if I unplug my chip. Plug the chip back in, and the secondary processor sends a false signal back to the ECU with a different rail pressure and all good. So I just leave the chip plugged in (I only unplugged it for a fault diagnosis on a small wiring issue)

I haven't been able to source an after-market rail sensor for the YD motor. Nissan sell the rail and sensor as an assembly, and the ebay sensors for patrols and navaras are for a different motor best I can tell.
 
I wouldn't jump at the pump just yet, I only pointed out that if you DID take it to Nissan, their procedures to diagnose and repair are to start with some rather expensive changes.

Your problem could be something simple, but Nissan techs just follow a recipe - so that's why I advised you AGAINST taking it there. You have a code now, it's time to look at it and the possible causes.

Do you get a lot of black smoke? If you do, it's air. If you don't, it's starving for fuel.

For air, check the turbo. Check the intercooler, might be gummed up with oil from the blowby. You'd spot this as the hose from the intercooler to the intake manifold will collapse at 2,000rpm.

For fuel, check that the fuel lines haven't been crushed by a rock wedging itself or the fuel tank being moved and catching the line against the body.

All depends on the amount of smoke. If you've looked after it, I'd be betting against the timing chain - in other words, I do NOT think that would be the problem.
 

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