Intercooler upgrade in D40

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Well if thats the case, Why can't I just add a small thermo fan to the front of the Air-Air cooler to help? I know the liquid-air will probably be more efficient but also more cost and alot to change over.

That is possible. It is a common mod to the 3l patrol and the Landrover Discovery with the 300TDI engine which has the intercooler air drawn through it by the engine cooling fan. The i/c is mounted to the side of the radiator and the fan shroud covers both.
 
Thanks guys.

Lindsay, Is there enough room to install a small thermo fan if needed?
 
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It is a waste of time and actually will hurt the performance of a car that is mainly driven on the road or anything above approx 40km/hr.
The fan will affect airflow over the core therefore limiting potential cooling area.

The intercooler kit Northside do is really good. It is a specially designed core that has the leading edge of the tubes radiused to allow better airflow thru the core. Therefore little to no extra load on radiator. No extra lag to notice and with the hard pipe upgrade you are gaining response there too. Especially when everything under the bonnet starts getting hot. There is little to no expansion of the hard pipe compared to the factory rubber.
Put it this way I have never seen my coolant temps change even when sloggin up a hill at 550 deg c egt.

Water meth would be the next thing to do AFTER the intercooler but this is still considered a fuel so while it will help cool egt's you are still adding fuel if that makes sense.

domainmal do you have an aftermarket exhaust on your vehicle?
 
Yes mate 3" exhaust with dump pipe from Roo Systems and the delete/race pipe from Chip-it. Plus the EGR blank plate.
 
I've been thinking about sticking a water-air intercooler in, as well as the normal one, but plumbed back to my water tank so we can have hot showers.
Its one of those things that came to me after a few beers and will never happen, but I like the idea
 
Yes mate 3" exhaust with dump pipe from Roo Systems and the delete/race pipe from Chip-it. Plus the EGR blank plate.

I gather the IC in your D40 is in working order atm.......yes????


if so,

here's my 2 bobs worth...leave that one alone, dont waste your cash on another and get an good ex system and a chip.

if that doesnt keep you happy...well....stuff a chev in it.
 
4.8GU;134 Water meth would be the next thing to do AFTER the intercooler but this is still considered a fuel so while it will help cool egt's you are still adding fuel if that makes sense. [/QUOTE said:
You are but so long as you keep the mix under 50% alcohol your not adding to the the combustion.
 
So would this be the same for LPG injection?

In my experience with diesel/LPG - power up 20% - torque up 27% and EGT's down 50 deg C at full noise. Overall I used less diesel (I think about 20%) and about 3 litres of gas per 100kms.

Although it would take a long time to recoup the cost of fitting as a performance increase it was definately wotrth it. Along with super clean oil even after 10,000Km, no black smoke and smoother running.
Cheers
 
Ok, summer is coming again so I thought I would bring this thread back to life.
Let's forget about adding extra fuels/gas, air to air or water to air? Which way would you go?
 
Personally, I'll stick with my air-air. No moving parts to fail, so if I'm out in the boonies I'm less at risk of something failing and leaving me with either reduced power or no go at all.
 
Definitely worth doing. I was sceptical as you currently are. I made my own. Not too complicated, although I did mine 100% from scratch and mounted it a little bit differently than others have.

As for power differences, I would need to get it on a dyno for that but it definitely moves along much quicker than it use to and that is with the EGR blocking plate currently out. Will chuck that back in tonight and see if there is a difference.

The only negative is the "flutter" from the turbo is very annoying. I made up a 3" S/S intake as well utilizing the factory airbox.
 
Ive been wanting to get a stainless Intake pipe done that goes into the stock airbox....I dont suppose you wanna make another one?
 
For me to make up one including everything needed just wouldn't be cost beneficial for you and I would feel like a thief. If I got a group together I could do it but I think that then goes against forum policies.

However, it is actually the only part that required the least amount of work (no welding). Ring up your local S/S supplier, you want a 3" 90 deg bend (tube) out of 304/316 S/S, must tell them it's thin walled that you require or you could end up with something like Sch. 40 if your not careful haha.

This is everything you will need for the job:

- 1 x 3" S/S 90 deg elbow (tube)
- 1 x 3-2" Silicone reducer (2" end attaches to front of turbine inlet)
- 1 x 3" Silicone coupling
- 3 x Clamps to suit 3" dia.
- 1 x 2" Clamp

You will also need to drill a small hole in the elbow to re-fit the air line and you will also need to trim 20-30mm off of one end of the elbow ensuring you remove all burrs and filings before fitment. The shorter end mates up with the airbox/maf.

It's relatively straight forward. Hope that helps.
 

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