Engine issues ZD30

[jzxtoy]

Hi Peoples,
been looking at this forum for a little while now but was a bit lazy to sign up
Anyway got an issue with my 02 model equipped with zd30 ( just on 140 k's) which i have owned for nearly 4 years and not an issue with it until recently.
Engine check light started to come on yesterday,engine looses a little bit of power, seems the ecu puts it in a limp home mode feel.
got it home left it for the night started it up this morning, engine light come on almost straight away and a rough idle.,there is a slight smell of either burnt oil or exhaust gas from engine bay, cant quite determine which one as the engine fan swoops it around.If i give it a slight rev it revs rough and not smooth, also doenst want to rev freely like it should, lethargic.Oil is fine, water is fine, no other noises for what i can hear.
I do all the servicing myslef, oil and filter every 5k with good qaulity oils, never miss a service.

Is there a way of diagnostic on the ouput myself ( just under the dash near drivers feet)by shorting two terminals togther to give me an idea on what the error code maybe or is the only way a laptop/software job?
Any help would be greatly appreciated as its my wife's daily.
.

 

[Old.Tony]

Welcome aboard!

With the smell of exhaust gas in the engine bay I'd suspect an EGR leak. If the valve is stuck, damaged or disconnected you'll get the CEL lighting up. Normally the EGR valve is closed at idle and at high throttle, so it would idle rough and not provide full power if the valve was stuck open.

You could block the EGR tube off (a lot of people are doing this) and see if it improves the idle, but if the valve's itself has failed, you will need to fix/replace it in order to resolve the issue that the ECU has triggered a fault for.

As for the fault, the manual indicates that you need to connect a CONSULT device to check the DTC (Diagnostic Trouble Code). There may be some alternative method that the manual doesn't explain - in the D40 series, we can count the flashes to get the code.

 

[jzxtoy]

Hi Tony,
Thanks for that!
I tend to agree with you with the egr, and yeah have read a few times people blocking it up.I 'll tempt to remove/inspect it and see how i go,just got to identify it now.
Cheers

 

[Old.Tony]

Piece of cake to spot. Look for a tube that runs around from the exhaust to a gizmo on the inlet side. Should be about 25-30mm in diameter, possibly gold in colour (the ones I have seen are) and the gizmo that the tube runs into bolts onto the inlet manifold. The tube ought to run straight around the front of the motor.

Hope that helps.

 

[jzxtoy]

I think you mean the back of the motor for that pipe., comes from the direction of the turbo.It is a Zd30 not a 2.5.I can see pipe that runs around the back of the motor to what i believe is the egr valve on the inlet, then an aluminum pipe feed to the inlet.I'll see how i go, thanks for the help.

 

[Old.Tony]

Yeah they could have done it differently in the ZD30. In the YD25, the EGR pipe is watercooled as well, so it's near all the plumbing.

Good luck!

 

[tweak'e]

yes its tube behind the motor. if its leaking you will need to block it off at exhaust end which might be a bit of a job. tho it usually hisses if it leaks.
if you block the EGR off it pays to do the EGR butterfly mod.

only commonrail YD25's have water cooled EGR system. early YD25 doesn't.

i don't know the procedure to get the codes without a code reader. but leaky EGR won't bring up a fault code. see if you can find a mechanic with a code reader and make sure you get the code and what it means. if in doubt get it down by nissan then we can easly look up the nissan codes.

 

[tommy222220_0]

Replace fuel filter. Had this happen a few times, usually dirty/water in the fuel filter. Replacing the unit remedies the problem (well for me anyways)

 

[pointblank5]

You can get the fault codes by bridging the terminals 8 (IGN) and 1 (CHK) of the diagnosis connector located below the lower dash panel on the drivers side. The diagnosis connector has 2 rows of connector points. No.1 is the bottom right one and No. 8 is the bottom left one (could be upside down, but the furthest 2 holes apart that actually have a lead going into them I think).

If it is water in the fuel, the warning light usually comes on and goes off repeatedly.

You can clear the codes yourself after reading them by reconnecting the wire bridging terminals described earlier while the ignition is still on. Wait at least two seconds and then remove the wire bridging the terminals.

(1) ensure the battery is fully charged and the engine is at operating temperature
(2) ensure all accessories are switched off
(3) switch the engine on but DO NOT start it
(4) bridge the terminals as mention before. The Check Engine warning light (CEWL) should go out
(5) Wait at least two seconds and then remove the wire bridging the terminals of the diagnosis connector. As soon as you remove the wire the CEWL will begin to flash the codes.
(6) Read the codes by counting the number of flashes of the CEWL. The code numbers are displayed as 2 sets of flashes, each code is separated by a 2.1 second pause.

Each set (code) comprises of a series of 0.6 second flashes, an 0.9 second pause and a further set of 0.3 second flashes. The first set represents the first two digest of the code and the second set represents the last two digits.

eg. Code 0102 would be shown as one 0.6 second flash, a 0.9 second pause and then two 0.3 second flashes.

If there are no codes present the code 0505 will come up, the codes will keep repeating if you miss count or whatever.

To clear the codes once you’ve got them out, just bridge the terminals again for at least 2 seconds.