I have a 2007 D40 turbo diesel manual. For awhile now when you accelerate you get to about 2000rpm and the turbo is coming in then it drops to about 1800rpm then all of a sudden revs up no problems. When i took it in for the 70,000 service they found bacteria in the diesel and the car is booked in to have the pump, injectors and all that stuff replaced. They blamed this problem on the diesel bacteria saying that the bacteria is blocking off the flow the the blockage moves and it revs up fine. In the last couple of days I have noticed in 4th and 5th gear you get to 2000rpm and the turbo comes in and you can rev it up to 3000rpm and you can hear the turbo going but the ute isn't really moving. If you reved the car like that a week ago it would have taken off. Would the bacteria cause this problem or is there something else wrong.
Reving problem
- Thread starter revkev91
- Start date
Help Support Nissan Navara Forum:
ourd40
Member
Have you tried adding those fuel additives? Give that a go or go past a diesel specialist and ask them
If it does it while you're standing still and revving it then I'd suspect the turbocharger actuator, although there haven't been many reports of actuator problems with the 2007 models. You could check the vanes in the turbocharger. What's the history like? Has the turbo been allowed to cool with the engine idling after a hard run in the past, or has it been run hard and just switched off?
I don't like the sound of the advice you've received.
I don't like the sound of the advice you've received.
If i were you i would explore all other avenues mentioned above before you go replacing injectors, fuel rails, and pumps because as you probably now know that will be ONE HELL OF A MASSIVE BILL!! like somewhere between 4k and 10k.
^+1. It's going to be well over $4K because the pump alone is $4K. Injectors run @ over $400 each (although I've recently heard someone quote $800 each). I'm sure FB could run the figures through here but if I was looking at the difference between a leaking vacuum line on the turbo actuator (which is a possibility I forgot earlier) costing about $5 to fix or what could be $4k + $3.2K + $1.6K (rail) + $200 (filter) = $9,000 ... I know what I'd be looking at.
FatBoy89
senior member
- Joined
- May 23, 2011
- Messages
- 4,742
- Reaction score
- 0
If its turbo you're looking up around 5 grand atleast. Injectors are up at $900.00 genuine. I know a couple guys who can supply them at around $320.00 each at trade. Non genuine. But same same if you're paying for it. All pipes need to be replaced which add up to around $600.00 mark also. Pumps are around $4300.00. Labour anywhere from 12-15 hours.
After hard runs i leave it idling for a few minutes. Its not spluttering but it does blow some smoke from time to time. The diesel bacteria is being repaired through my insurance. Its a similar story to IanF fuel contamination but mine hasn't gone into limp mode. The problem i have with it reving and not really moving only happens in 3rd, 4th and 5th but i have a snorkel and you can hear the turbo working through that and it seems to pull fine in 1st and 2nd. Not sure how to explain it but imagine you have the clutch half in so the ute can accelerate but it revs hard if that makes sense
it revs out and accelerates but it doesn't accelerates like it use to almost like the clutch is half on. I was thinking the clutch but why doesn't it do it in 1st and 2nd. I thought it if was the clutch it would be more likely to slip in 1st because it has load of the ute trying to get it to move.
Yeah but i suppose it would depend when you change gears in the rev range. If you change early without coming onto full boost then it might not slip. I dont hit full boost in first or even second when accelerating, just give it enough to get to the next gear. 3rd is a fair bit longer and will give the clutch more time to start slipping. Mate im definately no mechanic, but thats what it sounds like to me. A Mates clutch was going a while ago in his skyline, but it was considerably worse in 3rd and 4th. didnt notice it too much in the early gears. Just another idea...
the_bluester
Member
- Joined
- Jan 15, 2010
- Messages
- 431
- Reaction score
- 1
Just to be clear on your descriptions. Ignoring the lower gears if you reckon it feels OK in them. Cruise gently up to a reasonable speed and put it in fourth gear. With the clutch completely up, hit the throttle. If the revs rise but the speed does not then the clutch is slipping and no amount of money on fuel system is goingo to help there.
I don't like using my old clutch bite test on newer cars with dual mass flywheels. That was to cruise along at 100KMH in a higher gear. Hit the throttle and after a second or two, momentarily pop the clutch to see if it bites well and pulls the revs straight back down as you release it (I do mean momentarily, quicker even than if you were making a very quick gear change, the idea is to allow revs to climb a little and see how well it pulls it back down, not to free rev it and see if you can melt the clutch linings) Dual mass flywheels seem a little fragile for that. I have done it on a car I own with a DMF but I would not do it to one I do not own.
I don't like using my old clutch bite test on newer cars with dual mass flywheels. That was to cruise along at 100KMH in a higher gear. Hit the throttle and after a second or two, momentarily pop the clutch to see if it bites well and pulls the revs straight back down as you release it (I do mean momentarily, quicker even than if you were making a very quick gear change, the idea is to allow revs to climb a little and see how well it pulls it back down, not to free rev it and see if you can melt the clutch linings) Dual mass flywheels seem a little fragile for that. I have done it on a car I own with a DMF but I would not do it to one I do not own.
ourd40
Member
Clutch will slip in 6th before 1st alot more strain on clutch in 4th, 5th 6th.
It could very well be the clutch slipping. I wonder if it could also be the NPS?
On the way home I got the car into 4th and put my foot into it and she just revved and didn't go anywhere. After doing that you could kind of smell the clutch burning. Just a question with the flywheel is there a reason for running the dual mass flywheel or can i convert it to a sold flywheel. I got a quote from west end diesel to replace the clutch they said it would cost $1600 to $1800 is that about right?
Now that's quite a different symptom than the original description, but after a few questions we came good. That's not bad to see.
Get rid of the dual mass flywheel. Solids are fine, but make sure they balance the flywheel/pressure plate combo together (with an alignment mark) before installing it.
The idea behind the dual mass flywheel is to make the car feel smoother - more like a petrol car.
The quote you've got seems quite reasonable - seen quotes over $2K.
Aren't you glad you fished around some more now?
Get rid of the dual mass flywheel. Solids are fine, but make sure they balance the flywheel/pressure plate combo together (with an alignment mark) before installing it.
The idea behind the dual mass flywheel is to make the car feel smoother - more like a petrol car.
The quote you've got seems quite reasonable - seen quotes over $2K.
Aren't you glad you fished around some more now?
