Massive play left to right in steering

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itl be the steering box. you can undo the lock nut and adjust it up a bit to take out slop but dont do it over tight or it will increase wear
 
i just jacked up the front and i can move one tire without the other moving. from what i can see the drag link moves up and down as well as left to right........ moving up and down allows one wheel to move independantly from the other... is anyone else having this problem?

i looked and my steering box also has play ^ ill do that, thankyou :)
 
StockAppy said:
i just jacked up the front and i can move one tire without the other moving. from what i can see the drag link moves up and down as well as left to right........ moving up and down allows one wheel to move independantly from the other... is anyone else having this problem?

i looked and my steering box also has play ^ ill do that, thankyou :)
Click to expand...

I replaced steering idler arm bushes in mine with nolathane due
to similar problem all good now.
 
i did some research on grassroots4x4 and worked out how he builds up the centre rod/ drag link to make it a nice solid ( as it can be ) steering linkage. I have ordered 4 teflon coated spherical bearings, ive got an engineering mate chopping up and re welding my drag link and once he is done ill re install and i dont think ill ever have a problem with it again, im also toughening up my whole tie rod setup so ill be able to smash into things with a lot more confidence soon :D
 
Replace inner and out tie rod arm joints (around 50-60 for the set online or 80 to 100 in stores.

that should fix it, if no check your front wheel bearings, they may need tightening "
 
did all the tie rods only a few weeks ago with allignment, lasted about 3hrs driving till they were trashed and the centre rod / drag link flexes up and down..... the only fix is spherical bearing stacked instead of the tie rod connecting the centre rod to the control arms... spherical bearings because they have a radial static load that is wayyy beyond anything my 4x4ing will do to it. about 50 thousand pounds radial load. and being 1 stacked on the other with a bolt through them it stops them from moving spherically and only allows them to be used like a roller bearing, thus allowing my steering to turn my wheels like normal but stop me from getting flex up and down.... i have a 3 inch lift and 12.5 wide 33's that stick out about 1.5-2 inches out my guards, thats why i kill the control arm/centre rod tie rods so fast. as for my tie rod and tie rod adjuster my mate is going to beef it up so i can smash into things harder. so once this is done in my opinion the once weak front end of the d22 is no longer weak, apart from the cvs of course... im just concentrating on steering atm.
 
so i take it he welds the bearings in place of the current joints that are on the center rod now and then uses a nut and bolt system?

bryan
 
also where did you get the bearings from? and pics are a must for the thread!! also what the reason for the spherical bearings could normal one be used?
 
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yeah in a nut shell 04silverstr. he is removing the steel which once housed the tie rods and welding in some tube steel. Im then going to press the bearings in rather than weld incase the welding warps the outter shell. im exactly replicating what grassroots4x4 do. but for a lot cheaper. the only reason im doing it is because he lives over seas, otherwise i would buy from him, his prices are all very reasonable imo for what he is providing, lets not forget he put all the R and D into these to make sure they were ok to sell before making them...
he asks $233 + $100 if you dont send him back your centre rod. the problem here for us in australia is that its 87 dollars to send a centre rod to him, so for me to buy through him its a $420 exercise... where as i picked up the bearings from a joint in the UK called "mcgill motorsport" who im pretty sure sell on ebay too for 10 dollars aussie a bearing and about 6 dollars postage.
my mate will do all the centre rod cutting and welding for free in work time.

the reason for spherical bearings is because no matter what the angle they can take 50 thousand pounds of force which is shhhhhhit loads. where as a normal or even teflon roller bearing cant take side impact without damage occuring. thats why 2 spherical on top of each other in the same bit of tubular steel, when there is a bolt through the 2 they physically cannot move on any angle but how a roller bearing moves. but can take all the brunt of massive side impact that the tie rods will deal to the centre rod / control arms sheer when bouncing your massive tires off of rocks etc...
 
I have just ordered one of the grassroots /hoohaa drag links.
USD 229+85 post to perth. Ordered a brand new drag link for US $53 and had it sent straight to the guy in USA in place of sending mine to him, so didn't have to worry about the $125 core charge.
So all up I'm out of pocket 367 usd
 
Hey StockAppy how did you go with doing this mod? Are you or your mate interested in doing more? I reckon you would get a few people off the forum if it was a reasonable price as it seems like a very common issue. I'm not that keen on getting it done in the states mainly due to the cost of what initially seems like a simple mod but I certainly don't trust my welding and engineering skills that much. I just bought a draglink on ebay so will see if it helps things at least for a little while. My tyre place told me to get it replaced before they do the wheel alignment as it is apparently flogged out.
 

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