Help please
- Thread starter twon
- Start date
Help Support Nissan Navara Forum:
This might be a dirty SCV, but let's get some things clearer first.
Does it go like this: you drive along, and accelerate a bit, then find that it doesn't want to rev much past 2,000rpm until you turn the engine off and on again? If so, definitely look towards the SCV. The easiest fix (also rather cheap and good for other parts like the pump and injectors) is a can of Liqui Moly Diesel Fuel System Cleaner.
If it's just happening on occasion (without accelerating hard) it's possibly the neutral position switch. Try this: when it happens, gently push the gear lever to one side or the other. Not enough to disengage gears, don't let it pop into neutral. If that movement fixes it, it's the NPS - you might be able to clean it, but most people who've had the problem have replaced it. It might just be the electrical connector for the NPS (side of the gearbox).
Random glitches are also caused by poor earthing. First check the battery posts (and while you're doing one, do the other anyway. Clip a jump starter pack on to your battery leads first so you don't lose the radio, window or trip meter settings. Disconnect both battery terminals and clean them thoroughly. Reassemble and spray with battery terminal paint. Then check the earth point on the side of the motor, and most importantly check the earth under the ECU.
I had one set of driving lights come on and stay on regardless during my last service, then a few days later both sets of light bars failed. It was an easy fix - first, some smart-ass decided he'd unplug the output cable on the roof lights and when he plugged it back in, he plugged it into 87a on the relay not 87 - that's "normally on". Oops. And the fix for the second one - ring the dealership and tell them NEVER to pressure wash my engine bay again, because they'd caused the driving lights fuse to corrode. Why is this important for you? If you've pressure-washed your engine bay, you could be seeing oxidisation occuring in any of the connectors - on any of the sensors (MAFS, intake pressure possible problem areas).
There might be other reasons. If you've never blocked your EGR and had a catch can fitted, your intake manifold might look like a pack-a-day smoker's lungs. You could do what they can't - clean it out!
Does it go like this: you drive along, and accelerate a bit, then find that it doesn't want to rev much past 2,000rpm until you turn the engine off and on again? If so, definitely look towards the SCV. The easiest fix (also rather cheap and good for other parts like the pump and injectors) is a can of Liqui Moly Diesel Fuel System Cleaner.
If it's just happening on occasion (without accelerating hard) it's possibly the neutral position switch. Try this: when it happens, gently push the gear lever to one side or the other. Not enough to disengage gears, don't let it pop into neutral. If that movement fixes it, it's the NPS - you might be able to clean it, but most people who've had the problem have replaced it. It might just be the electrical connector for the NPS (side of the gearbox).
Random glitches are also caused by poor earthing. First check the battery posts (and while you're doing one, do the other anyway. Clip a jump starter pack on to your battery leads first so you don't lose the radio, window or trip meter settings. Disconnect both battery terminals and clean them thoroughly. Reassemble and spray with battery terminal paint. Then check the earth point on the side of the motor, and most importantly check the earth under the ECU.
I had one set of driving lights come on and stay on regardless during my last service, then a few days later both sets of light bars failed. It was an easy fix - first, some smart-ass decided he'd unplug the output cable on the roof lights and when he plugged it back in, he plugged it into 87a on the relay not 87 - that's "normally on". Oops. And the fix for the second one - ring the dealership and tell them NEVER to pressure wash my engine bay again, because they'd caused the driving lights fuse to corrode. Why is this important for you? If you've pressure-washed your engine bay, you could be seeing oxidisation occuring in any of the connectors - on any of the sensors (MAFS, intake pressure possible problem areas).
There might be other reasons. If you've never blocked your EGR and had a catch can fitted, your intake manifold might look like a pack-a-day smoker's lungs. You could do what they can't - clean it out!
its on a petrol and its only when the car is parked then started to take off it feels like the hand break is left on then stop and take off again its all sweet
ive heard of the axle seal leaking and causing the brake shoe to stick to the drum could that be it
ive heard of the axle seal leaking and causing the brake shoe to stick to the drum could that be it
happy john
Member
Have a look and see if it's weeping, take it for a drive around the block whilst cool then glide to a stop and check for heat on the drum. That will rule out sticking brake shoes which is a very common occurrence.
I would leave it parked up for a while (overnight ?), then chock the front wheels, jack up the rear, release the handbrake and try to rotate the wheels. That will tell you quickly if something is sticking.
If the wheels rotate fine, then it may be something engine related as suggested by Old Tony.
If the wheels rotate fine, then it may be something engine related as suggested by Old Tony.
If the engine is revving fine and the car just feels like it's being held back then I'd bet on the brake shoes too.
It's not until we ask questions and make assumptions that we get enough info to be able to have an idea of where the problem might be.
It's not until we ask questions and make assumptions that we get enough info to be able to have an idea of where the problem might be.
