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jenks77

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hi iv just fitted a new engine in my d40, im after some info since putting the engine in it will not start not evan trying to fire iv fitted a new turbo,starter motor,
iv got fuel up to the injectors but just will not fire
any advice would be amazing cheers
 
Petrol or Diesel?

Are the injectors actually spraying any fuel when you're cranking?

ECU wiring all connected properly?

All of your earthing connected up properly?

If it's petrol - are you getting any spark?
 
Petrol or Diesel?

Are the injectors actually spraying any fuel when you're cranking?

ECU wiring all connected properly?

All of your earthing connected up properly?

If it's petrol - are you getting any spark?
It’s diesel, all wires are connected, not sure if the injections are spraying, iv got fuel up to injections, do they need coding I bought the truck with a half engine and not sure if they are the original injections
 
the injectors will need to be coded?
it seems to be a fairly easy job tho.. can do it yourself with a little technical apparantly
 
Thanks iv got the diagnostics to do it I’ll whip them out now and code them
 
So coded injectors in and still won’t start, where is the glow plug realay I can’t here it clicking in or out seem to have no power to glow plugs ! Would this stop it starting?
 
So coded injectors in and still won’t start, where is the glow plug realay I can’t here it clicking in or out seem to have no power to glow plugs ! Would this stop it starting?

Not necessarily, without glow plugs it will still start just take a bit longer especially in colder weather. I've seen some start almost straight away and others a hell of a lot longer.

Unless the ECU stops the engine from running if there is a problem with the glow-plugs? but from what I've seen the YD25 doesn't look too technologically advanced.

When you did your diagnostics it didn't spit out any codes? no ECU errors?

With a petrol car you need Air + Fuel + Spark.. with a diesel you can minus the spark obviously. I still feel like you have a fuelling issue
 
Glows help but the engine should start without them (particularly on a warm day). The relay in the D40 should be over near the battery up against the guard. You can turn the ignition on and test the input to the glows to see if they're getting power.

Try squeezing the primer bulb a few times. How many times before it gets firm? If it's just 2-3, you've got fuel in there. If it takes more than 5-6 squeezes, you've got air in the system, probably from a leak. Keep squeezing the primer bulb some more, diesel should start coming out of the leak.

So assuming you have fuel getting to the injectors and there's no leak, have someone crank the engine a little while you watch the exhaust. Is there any air coming out of the exhaust? Diesels are "full flow" engines, they gulp large amounts of air and this has to come out of the exhaust. If there IS air, try smelling it - can you smell diesel?

If not, your injectors might not be opening at all. This may be a fault in the camshaft position sensor (used for injection timing) or the crankshaft position sensor (used for determination of rotation speed which dictates the amount of fuel injected along with the MAFS temperature data).

If the engine "sort of" fires (gives a couple of thumps and stalls) and never actually idles, your EGR might be stuck open. If you have an older model car (2011 or older) you can safely blank the EGR pipe (the gold pipe that runs around the front of the motor and connects to a valve on the front side of the intake manifold). Newer cars have a flow sensor in the EGR valve and blocking the EGR will trigger a warning light (although EGR won't be commanded during engine start or idle, but if the valve's stuck it'll choke the engine fast if it's stuck open).
 
If you have an older model car (2011 or older) you can safely blank the EGR pipe (the gold pipe that runs around the front of the motor and connects to a valve on the front side of the intake manifold). Newer cars have a flow sensor in the EGR valve and blocking the EGR will trigger a warning light (although EGR won't be commanded during engine start or idle, but if the valve's stuck it'll choke the engine fast if it's stuck open).

Mine is a 2014 VSK and I blanked off the EGR, all seems to be fine and running as it should.. also installed a catch-can to back it up.

Any reason why the newer post 2011 models wouldn't like the EGR being blanked off?
 
Mine is a 2014 VSK and I blanked off the EGR, all seems to be fine and running as it should.. also installed a catch-can to back it up.

Any reason why the newer post 2011 models wouldn't like the EGR being blanked off?

Nissan (probably in order to comply with Euro emission specs) installed a flow sensor in the EGR valve, so that when EGR was commanded by the ECU, it should expect to see some flow through the valve. Quite a few people who've simply blanked theirs off had the dreaded engine light come on - until they drilled a hole in the plate, 8 to 10mm in diameter in the middle. This allowed enough flow to satisfy the sensor but still reduced the amount of EGR going into the intake.
 
Not necessarily, without glow plugs it will still start just take a bit longer especially in colder weather. I've seen some start almost straight away and others a hell of a lot longer.

Unless the ECU stops the engine from running if there is a problem with the glow-plugs? but from what I've seen the YD25 doesn't look too technologically advanced.

When you did your diagnostics it didn't spit out any codes? no ECU errors?

With a petrol car you need Air + Fuel + Spark.. with a diesel you can minus the spark obviously. I still feel like you have a fuelling issue
It gave me a code telling me the crank sensor so I changed that and nothing! I prime it 2-3 queues and the bulb it solid, it’s now started blowing the main fuse on the positive terminal, iv put a new starter motor on today but still the same I’m thinking it’s ecu problems?
 
It gave me a code telling me the crank sensor so I changed that and nothing! I prime it 2-3 queues and the bulb it solid, it’s now started blowing the main fuse on the positive terminal, iv put a new starter motor on today but still the same I’m thinking it’s ecu problems?

blowing the main fuse?

Check your connections dude, sounds like you have a short somewhere.

On a side note, did you do the timing chain and any adjustments or was the engine from a wrecker already setup?

For sh1ts and giggles, unplug your alternator and see if she'll start and run for a bit.

ECU issues shouldn't be blowing the main fuse off the +
 
The main fuse on the positive terminal is a significant fuse ... any idea when this thing let go? Was it after/during an engine start? Most systems are protected by individual fuses (like just about everything, and there's three places for the fuses!).

The alternator is worth a try. Have any driving lights been added to the car recently?
 
blowing the main fuse?

Check your connections dude, sounds like you have a short somewhere.

On a side note, did you do the timing chain and any adjustments or was the engine from a wrecker already setup?

For sh1ts and giggles, unplug your alternator and see if she'll start and run for a bit.

ECU issues shouldn't be blowing the main fuse off the +
It’s a recon engine, the main fuse is only burning on cranking, iv disconnected the alternator still the same iv cleaned up all contacts, but the f**king thing still won’t fire !!!! I’m lost with this one
 
It might be time to examine the starter and its solenoid. The very first thing I'd do is ensure that the main power cable from the starter motor runs directly up to the battery terminal and does NOT connect to the fusible link. The starter draws somewhere over 500 amps while cranking the diesel over. Even the main 140A fusible link isn't going to survive that for long.

If the positive cable looks good, examine the battery negative cable and check where it connects to the motor. If the earth isn't good, the starter motor (which relies just as much on this as it does on the positive connection) will try to draw that power through other systems. It's a good idea to remove the battery negative connection on the motor, clean it, reinstall it to proper tightness then give it a spray with battery terminal sealer. While you've got that stuff out, clean both battery terminals and the connectors and do the same.
 
Iv put a new Lucas starter motor on a few days ago, thinking it was the solenoid, I’ll strip the positive and negative cables off tomorrow see if there is any cracks or scuffs on them apart from that I’m lost !!
 
It’s a recon engine, the main fuse is only burning on cranking, iv disconnected the alternator still the same iv cleaned up all contacts, but the f**king thing still won’t fire !!!! I’m lost with this one

it sounds like you're doing all the right stuff.

Tony has some great points that are worth checking.

All I can think of that's left is the obvious and you're not getting injector pulse.

yeah you might be getting fuel to the injectors in the rails but they aren't squirting anything into the cylinders.

Either the injector timing is out completely or they are aren't doing their job altogether.

The only thing that has me confused is whether blowing the main fuse is related to it all.
 
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