Fuel Rail Limiter/Banjo Bolt Mod

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RustyNav09

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hey fellas i have just opened my chipit packet a lil more and removed the usb and plugged it into my computer and started studying the bits and pieces. there was one lil bit in the box that confused me and it was a 16mm round disc about 2mm thick in a small plastic bag. i thought this was strange until i opened the fuel rail limiter/banjo bolt mod section of the usb only to find out what it is.

my question is to anyone with a d22 of 07-11 with the yd25 motor, have you done this mod? how hard is it? and is the rail under pressure and do i need to release the pressure somehow before removing the fuel rail limiter? im a lil sceptic of this mod and does it really need doing to fit the chip?

would like to knwo asap as it can be a job for me tomorrow on my day off. also will my car now use more fuel now the limiter has been blocked?

Thanks
Rusty
 
From a laymans POV. The rail limiter is a pressure limiter. So by removing it, the chip can force more pressure into the rail, this increasing power.

So it's probably necessary.

Give chipit a call!
 
thanks josh,

i just emailed Robert, so i will see how i go with a reply.

im jst worried about the rail being pressurized and when i crack the bolt i slice my hadn off with 6000psi or rail pressure. any ideas?

Rusty
 
I don't have a D22 but I can tell you that the mod allows the fuel rail pressure to be raised before the valve opens.

ALL performance-enhancing chips raise the fuel rail pressure. It's like turning a garden tap on more - it's the same hose, but more water comes out. The valve that you're modifying opens when the rail pressure gets too high, and allows the excess fuel to return to the fuel tank. This mod just raises the limit a little.

If you don't do the mod, and you fit the chip, when the chip tries to get the rail pressure up nice and high the relief valve might open, so the chip may not appear to provide the best possible performance.

As for fuel consumption - if you don't drive it to use extra fuel, it won't use extra fuel, but if you keep planting your foot down on the loud pedal, any chip would increase the fuel consumption. It's part of what they do.
 
thanks josh,

i just emailed Robert, so i will see how i go with a reply.

im jst worried about the rail being pressurized and when i crack the bolt i slice my hadn off with 6000psi or rail pressure. any ideas?

Rusty

I think the peak pressure is around 300psi (it's 315 in the D40s, I think). That's still enough to hurt! I don't think the pressure is maintained in the rail. The D40 manual indicates that you can just unbolt stuff while the engine is turned off without drama.
 
ok so i might give this a go. they state to use superglue to put the plate onto the limiter. can i use araldite?once its in the fuel rail it gets pinched and jammed in there anyway.

Rusty
 
Superglue (cyanoacrylate) is an instant bond that won't add a lot to the thickness. Araldite, because it's an epoxy-based adhesive, will add a little more due to its higher viscosity.

You might be able to use it - for either, I'd use the smallest amount possible. A light smear of araldite on the face then press it together and let it dry. If you're using super glue, you can put the parts together then touch the glue to the interface. Superglue will "wick" into the join and they'll stick. Try to avoid excess of either.
 
It does not sound like it is something too easy to uninstall when it goes in for a regular service. Bit of a bugger if it's still under warrantee. :big_smile:

Sure gives me a bit of food for thought.

Please let us know how you get on & what difference it makes.
 
so wuld i just put a small amount of superglue on the face of the 16mm plate then press it into the rail limiter? making sures its pressed firm and centred?

Rusty
 
It does not sound like it is something too easy to uninstall when it goes in for a regular service. Bit of a bugger if it's still under warrantee. :big_smile:

Sure gives me a bit of food for thought.

Please let us know how you get on & what difference it makes.

will do ill be posting info of install and everything up in my build thread. as for difference i will have to test it with just the rail mod to make sure i have no leaks etc. then ill be adding chipit chip etc so the gains will be huge compared to factory.

Rusty
 
so wuld i just put a small amount of superglue on the face of the 16mm plate then press it into the rail limiter? making sures its pressed firm and centred?

Rusty

With superglue, you can clamp the two together and then touch a droplet of the glue to the join, the glue will run into the join and glue the items together.
 
alright no probs. i dont think i can get to the join with them preclamped together. ill have to drop a bit on it then stick the plate on asap and clamp it.

my main concern was teh rail pressure. but if there is no rail pressure when the car is turned off then i wont have a problem.

cheers
Rusty.
 
hey fellas i have just opened my chipit packet a lil more and removed the usb and plugged it into my computer and started studying the bits and pieces. there was one lil bit in the box that confused me and it was a 16mm round disc about 2mm thick in a small plastic bag. i thought this was strange until i opened the fuel rail limiter/banjo bolt mod section of the usb only to find out what it is.

my question is to anyone with a d22 of 07-11 with the yd25 motor, have you done this mod? how hard is it? and is the rail under pressure and do i need to release the pressure somehow before removing the fuel rail limiter? im a lil sceptic of this mod and does it really need doing to fit the chip?

would like to knwo asap as it can be a job for me tomorrow on my day off. also will my car now use more fuel now the limiter has been blocked?

Thanks
Rusty

Doesn't help I know but,
comes with NO instructions??????
Sheeeesh......
 
comes with pictures with very limited info. all it says is to remove fuel rail limiter super glue plate on and put back in tightening to 190nm torque(extremely tight). and more pictures after that.

plus i was double checking information cause i dont want to root my car :S
 
I'd do the same, check b4 better than toooo late.
Have heard it is difficult to undo, no wonder if it's 190nm tight.
 
Think I'm gonna need a few extension poles as levers Hehe.

It's been a disappointing day and I'm a lil cranky and frustrated. Drop my car in to get dump pipe done by a local exhaust fitter. He still has not done it cause he has to custom make a flange cause none of his supplliers have one. Would of you not tried to get a flange lastweek when I booked it in, not worked this out today? So instead of it being the price I was given he is charging me more for labour hours. Plus I won't be getting it back till tomorrow lunch time. I tell you what it better be a dam good job and perfect.

Rusty
 
Why is it that other peoples incompetence is at our cost?

Stuff like that really cheeses me off.

Hope it is smooth sailing for you from here on, well tomorrow anyway.
 
Hope so aswell. I have a figure in my head and i ain't paying anymore. If his custom work is worth it ill pay but ill be thoroughly checking it. I was hoping to get the boost controller and catch can in tomoz but not now.
 
I've done the limiter mod on mine. take the banjo bolt off the back of the limiter valve. This allows you to put a 19mm socket on the valve then with a long bar on the socket you should be able to loosen it. It will be tight but put just persist with it it will loosen. once you have the valve out clean all the fuel off the valve and apply a small amount of supa glue onto the valve, then place the disc in the centre of the valve. ensure that the copper washer is still inide the fuel rail and is in the right position (using a small mirror to do this will help). Screw limiter valve back in and tighten.Needs to be very tight. refit banjo bolt with return hose. Pump the fuel up at the fuel filter via the hand pump. Then start engine, may not start straight away ,when it does bring the revs up until engine runs smoothly. Check for leaks around the limiter valve. This mod can be reversed easily if vehicle service or warranty is required as the supa glue is only there to hold the limiter disc on for install. I have removed mine when car went back for warranty work and the disc comes off the valve quite easily.
 
Last edited:
Thanks a heap muzza. Installed the chip today and I might leave the limiter out for now just to see how it goes.

Thanks
Rusty
 

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