Change to oil 10/40

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Hello,

I have removed the DPF and deleted egr (this night be illegal in your country - do not try this at home :d)

Then got an advise to g8ve it liqi moly 10/40 c4 720 for diesels

It seems better and working fine.


Would cause any problem in future

Mine is V6 d40 v9x
 
Hello NN just wondering why you would change to a different oil and how it seems better ?
I would stick to the recommended oil myself and use only the best available
oils an’t oils, a few members here have spun the bearings on the bottom end in the V9X one directly with wrong oil but billyburnout didn’t say what oil :)
Cheers
 
Hello NN just wondering why you would change to a different oil and how it seems better ?
I would stick to the recommended oil myself and use only the best available
oils an’t oils, a few members here have spun the bearings on the bottom end in the V9X one directly with wrong oil but billyburnout didn’t say what oil :)
Cheers
5W30 C4 is manufactured for europe and cold weather area.

Mine is imported to middle east the weather here is too hot and using 5w30 means i have to add oil every week.
 
The suggest oil type for Stx 550 v9x is C4 5W30.

still no big difference?

No.

The first number indicates the viscosity of the oil at low temperatures, so in cold climates you want the lower first number (5W30 would be the choice) so that the oil flows well as the engine is started.

The second number indicates the viscosity of the oil at running temperatures (I think they normally use 100C as the benchmark). The climate has little effect on this (on this planet).

10W30 should be available and would be my choice for hot climates but really, 5W30 is not a lot different. If you're losing oil, changing grades probably won't do a lot anyway especially once the engine is hot. A compression test of each cylinder would be a good idea to see if perhaps some of the piston rings are not sealing as well as they ought to (do the compression test, then pour a little oil in and test again - increase in compression on a test after adding oil means piston rings aren't sealing well).
 
No.

The first number indicates the viscosity of the oil at low temperatures, so in cold climates you want the lower first number (5W30 would be the choice) so that the oil flows well as the engine is started.

The second number indicates the viscosity of the oil at running temperatures (I think they normally use 100C as the benchmark). The climate has little effect on this (on this planet).

10W30 should be available and would be my choice for hot climates but really, 5W30 is not a lot different. If you're losing oil, changing grades probably won't do a lot anyway especially once the engine is hot. A compression test of each cylinder would be a good idea to see if perhaps some of the piston rings are not sealing as well as they ought to (do the compression test, then pour a little oil in and test again - increase in compression on a test after adding oil means piston rings aren't sealing well).
Is that compression test a big deal or shunting can be done quickly?
 
I've not done one on the V9X. You have to remove the glow plugs and connect a compression meter, then turn the engine over and note down the pressure achieved, repeat for each cylinder. They should all be similar in result. If one is dramatically lower than the others, there's a few possibilities:

* Damaged head gasket
* Valve not seating correctly
* Piston rings broken or stuck
* Bore worn beyond the piston ring's ability to seal

The last two are the most common and because the oil sits around the edge of the piston it will seal the cylinder to a degree. The compression is high enough to push the oil out past the rings a little, so you're just looking for an upward change, not a complete fix, when adding the oil.

If adding the oil does nothing, there's a good chance it's the head gasket or a valve.

If there's no compression at all (whatsoever), you may have a hole in the piston's crown. I've never heard of this in a Navara.
 

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