Building a canopy

[G-Dubya]

Hi all,
Thinking about building a canopy for my D22. The important things I want in the canopy is for it to be lockable and be able to carry things on the roof.

That being said I think I have two options:

1. Build a lockable frame, alloy plate top with tie down rails and use canvas curtains secured in sail track for the sides. Vent in the top to help keep dust out. I already have the sports bar and cover on the back at the moment and the canvas can hook onto the buttons already riveted into the sides of the tub. I think this would be lighter than option 2. Overall cost should be around $1300 - $1500.

2. Build a lockable frame, alloy plate top with tie down rails, fill in the voids between the frame and gates with alloy plate and cover the gates and front window with tinted 6mm perspex (support frame behind perspex for extra strength). I would have a lip inside the gates and have rubber seals put on them to help keep water out. I would also use sealer to put in around the alloy inserts and perspex to try and keep moisture out while still maintaining some vision through the gates. A vent in the top would be added to try and keep dust levels down. I was told that lexan would be better than perspex because it is stronger and more UV resistant. Downside is it costs twice as much as perspex. Cost for this build should be under $1200.

The reason I am not looking at fibreglass or thermoplas canopies is they cost too much, and then cost more to add a roof rack. I have looked for second hand ones but can't find one nearby that suits my vehicle.

My personal preferance would be to give option 2 a go but haven't seen anything like it pictured or described on the forum or internet.

Questions I would like to put to the forum are:
1. Has anyone tried to make a sealed canopy?
2. Do you think the sealed canopy is a viable idea?
3. Would water seep in past the foam seals when on the road (air pressure forcing moisture in)?

Cheers,
G.

 

[Old.Tony]

I think it's a great idea. It's how alternatives are made - you don't like the way this or that is so you redesign it, or manufacture something that does a better job in half the time with half the weight and effort etc etc.

There's a little concern with "lockable" and "canvas". It means that anyone with a stanley knife can unlock it.

The biggest issue with the scupper valve (the roof vent can be purchased from a caravan/trailer store and that's what it's usually called) is that it also allows water to get in. If you're not the lead vehicle on a dirt road, it will also allow dirt to get in. Some of has have tried sealing the tailgate - it's easier said than done, and might be even easier if I just closed it and used silicone.

If you incorporate a small lip that goes over the side of the tub top so that water can't fall on the gap and seep through you'll be doing better. Then use a rubber compressible seal all the way around the top of the tub lip so that motion doesn't force water up and in.

Steel tube supports will be needed to support the roof. A dynamic load is very much greater than a static load in stress - I think they figure about 3 times, so if you make a roof capable of holding 300Kg, you ought to be able to hold around 100Kg while you're driving.

I do like the DIY thing, especially if you're good at it. I'm not, I try anyway - producing mediocre-looking but functional results.

 

[G-Dubya]

Cheers Tony. I looked at the lockable canvas canopy thread on here and used it as a base for my design. I am not very handy and would be getting the frame made. Luckily I can get it done for material cost only. Just waiting for a mate to cost it out to see what it is going to total.

I have a design plan I will try to add to the thread when I get back to work (only place I know with an A3 scanner) so that it can give a better idea of what I want to do.

I was thinking about putting the vent on the front of the canopy (installed vertically with the hinge on the top edge rather than horizontally on the roof) to try and limit the amount of moisture that can get in. Only concern would be that it won't get enough airflow to pressurize inside.

I have included a lip on the canopy that matches to the inside of the tub lip and intend to use 6mm x 24mm foam to seal between the canopy and tub. Then use 6mm x 12mm foam inbetween the 3 opening gates and the frame to try and limit water entering into the tub.

On another note I had a set of drawers made and started fitting them into the tub today. I will hopefully have them finished by the weekend and I'll post up a pic or three. The drawers are made out of 12mm ply and fit between the wheel arches (about 800mm deep x 320mm high). I have added some aluminium angle on the edges to help limit any damage. Just need to finish covering them in carpet and then line the drawers with carpet to stop them getting knocked about too much on the inside. They are running on 2 pair of 45kg runners and I got some rubber backed indoor carpet to cover them with. All up cost has been around $300.

 

[G-Dubya]

Canopy Plan

Hi all,
I have attached a drawing for the canopy I want to build with details of what's going where. Hopefully it will give an idea of what I want to achieve.

The frame will be made out of 30mm x 30mm square tube (3mm thick). Gate frames will be made out of 20mm x 20mm square tube (1.6mm thick). Checkerplate alloy to be used will be 3mm thick and perspex will be tinted grey and around 6mm thick. I will use 40mm x 40mm angle to mount the canopy in the tubThinking of using 20mm bar (3mm thick) to add edges inside gate and alloy inserts to allow foam seals to be installed (6mm thick x 24mm wide between the tub lip and the canopy and 6mm thick x 12mm wide for sealing around the gates. I am unsure of the type of welds that will be used to glue it all together.

Please note the measurements used are approximates only.

 

[G-Dubya]

Additionally I want to use compression locks on all the gates (keyed alike for easy access) and was going to solve the unlockable tailgate issue by either adding barrel bolt locks to the inside or adding a metal lip to the tailgate that will sit behind the capoy gate when it's closed. 6 gas struts will be used to keep the gates open.

 

[Old.Tony]

Before adding a lip inside, check inside the tailgate to see if you can do something to stop the handle from pulling the latches like a normal car door lock (the D40 can do this, but by default suffers from being unlockable like yours).

That's going to be a heavy canopy. I'd question 3mm aluminium over 1.6mm steel but it's the 6mm plexiglass that's going to weigh the most. Wow. 3mm perspex is going to be half the weight, of course - could you use that, or does the design need something a few mm thicker?

It also looks like there's going to be some overhang across the upper part of the tailgate. As you're getting stuff in and out that could (would for me) eventually become bloody annoying, I know I'm constantly pushing against the sides of my canopy as I load/unload gear.

Otherwise it looks like it'll do the job nicely. Before fitting, consider LED light strips all around, and hooks in the roof for strapping small light things to (I'd love some in mine to attach occy straps to but it's all fibreglass).

 

[G-Dubya]

Thanks for the feedback. 6mm Perspex/plexiglass was recommended to me by my mate who will build it. 3mm would match the alloy sheet and be lighter. I would love it to built the whole thing out of aluminium but don't think he can do it in the shop he works out of (plus I don't know if the budget would stretch that far.

As for the lighting I already have 2 aluminium light bars (60 leds each I think) 1 in the tub under the cover and the other attached to the sports bar. I will transfer them into it.

I have thought about having the rear gate the same profile as the sides of the canopy but thought it might need more support at the rear. As the frame is likely to be made first, I can tweak the design if it seems sturdy enough without the rear vertical bars.

 

[G-Dubya]

After all that I can't get the canopy made how I wanted it so will have to go for the lockable frame with the canvas curtains around it. I will post up a copy of the plan if anyone else is interested in it. Got a quote for $850 for the canvas. Just waiting on a quote for the frame but not expecting the whole total to be more than $1700 including struts and locks.

 

[mitch92]

What canvas shop mate?

 

[G-Dubya]

Swains Canvas. Only a quote and they will measure off the canopy when it's finished. Canopy made out of PVC Canvas with 4 clear windows including installation.

 

[siringo]

I built a canopy for the back of my 40. I used 'sign white' for the roof and front (the panel behind the rear cabin window. Sign white is alot cheaper and lighter than aluminium.

I have canvas on both sides and the rear. If I was going to do it again, I may not use canvas on the rear, I've already speared it when I reversed one time.

I'm planning on building some light mesh panels for the sides that are hinged at the top and sit behind the canvas, these panels will be lockable.

Another thing I'd do if I did it a 2nd time is put windows in the sides. That way people can see you've got some mesh/grate behind the canvas.

 

[G-Dubya]

Here is a copy of the frame plan for a canvas enclosed lockable canopy. I haven't included any measurements on this plan but overall length is approx 1557mm and 1487mm wide (around the tub), 1300mm wide and 1557mm long at the top of the frame and will be 500mm high from the tub to the top of the frame.

Frame will be 40mm x 40mm x 2mm steel and gates will be 20mm x 20mm x 2mm steel. Roof will be 3mm alloy checkerplate. Will be adding sailtrack to secure canvas to the frame.

 

[kiwited]

DIY Canopy

I have made a start on a canopy, 40x 40 angle fits over sides and front, the rest of the steel used is 25 x 25 rhs, It is all welded and fits ok. I will not be able to do much more because I'm away from home for a few more days. I have ordered rubber from Clark Rubber and will have a lexan rear door and front window. I have not planned side windows but made sure the frame will allow decent side windows to be fitted later.

Because I live in a small place I will probably have to have the roofing made in a few pieces instead of one large piece folded. I'm still thinking about how to do it in three parts and do it in a tidy way. Ideas anyone?

I will put up some photos here Thursday or Friday for your information and constructive feedback.

I have also been thinking about rear door lock mechanisms. Have looked at an ARB the looks looked good. Open to suggestions too! Cheers, Ted.