CarlJT
Member
Slide pins were seized, 2 of them atleast
Losing control
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CarlJT
Member
Where to find hardware kit for rear drum. With adjuster. Can't find any to ship to nz?
available off the shelf easy enough. repco, bnt, etc.
you need to back off the pads to get the drums off. if it came off easy odds are it was not adjusted right.
adjustment wheels and the pawl you can tickle up with a file.
use anti seize not grease.
CarlJT
Member
Yeah think adjustment wheel and adjuster bad, one wheel shaved 3 teeth to almost nothing. Awaiting for everything in post now. Will need to run the adjuster to repco see if they have anything...
wow thats unusual. typically they just wear the tips or the pawl so it slips on the teeth.
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Have you worked with brakes before mate, I only ask because that's some work you're taking on!
Make sure you put a master cylinder kit through it, first thing to do when refurbishing TROUBLSOME brakes..
Treat brake fluid like it's got aids too, keep it off anything but the bottle it came in and reservoir... it eats some rubbers and paint work!
I'd say the rear just needed clean and adjust, make sure the shoes have meat on them, do the drums need machining? In your case to make things right and to tick it off the list I'd machine the drums and seat the shoes again..
Check slaves for leaks..
Have you a lift kit, did you adjust the proportioning valve yet?
If you are towing and carrying weight, get new slotted rotors and pads for the front, that's solved!
With calipers, read up on them......
There are special greases to be used and installation lube also! One for the piston o ring, most just use brake fluid and it can be fine, but get that fluid on the piston dust boot and it will swell the rubber, that's why you use installation lube there...
The pins will get hot even on brand new brakes, do not use never sleaze ! On any brake part!
Use ceramic grease to take the heat!! The dust boots on those pins will not handle those type of greases. They will swell letting dirt and water in causing the pin to rust and seize..
Sure you can use never seize etc but it won't take the heat! You can buy ceramic grease at superbleep and autobarn to do it right..
Do the pins need replacing? Clean everything up and take some close up photos of the pins, pistons "can you see any visable wear on the crome of the piston" and bores..
Oh, and what where you hitting with a hammer and cold chisel?, show me that part... was it the piston or pin? If the pin/S where that bad they are not that expensive to replace.. replace them.
I'll see if I can sorce those part numbers and what numbers I think you should need if you are overhanging your brakes..
Start looking into pressure bleeding, Nissans can be a right swine at bleed time, but the pressure pot is the way to go, or vacume pump...
Make sure you put a master cylinder kit through it, first thing to do when refurbishing TROUBLSOME brakes..
Treat brake fluid like it's got aids too, keep it off anything but the bottle it came in and reservoir... it eats some rubbers and paint work!
I'd say the rear just needed clean and adjust, make sure the shoes have meat on them, do the drums need machining? In your case to make things right and to tick it off the list I'd machine the drums and seat the shoes again..
Check slaves for leaks..
Have you a lift kit, did you adjust the proportioning valve yet?
If you are towing and carrying weight, get new slotted rotors and pads for the front, that's solved!
With calipers, read up on them......
There are special greases to be used and installation lube also! One for the piston o ring, most just use brake fluid and it can be fine, but get that fluid on the piston dust boot and it will swell the rubber, that's why you use installation lube there...
The pins will get hot even on brand new brakes, do not use never sleaze ! On any brake part!
Use ceramic grease to take the heat!! The dust boots on those pins will not handle those type of greases. They will swell letting dirt and water in causing the pin to rust and seize..
Sure you can use never seize etc but it won't take the heat! You can buy ceramic grease at superbleep and autobarn to do it right..
Do the pins need replacing? Clean everything up and take some close up photos of the pins, pistons "can you see any visable wear on the crome of the piston" and bores..
Oh, and what where you hitting with a hammer and cold chisel?, show me that part... was it the piston or pin? If the pin/S where that bad they are not that expensive to replace.. replace them.
I'll see if I can sorce those part numbers and what numbers I think you should need if you are overhanging your brakes..
Start looking into pressure bleeding, Nissans can be a right swine at bleed time, but the pressure pot is the way to go, or vacume pump...
Been a while
Member
Lol you'll be right, I just noticed how many responded,,,, I'll bow out, all the best..
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Replace those, they're under half.... and one of those slaves looks wet, why? Is that brake fluid?
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Two on one side, or one on each side?
CarlJT
Member
One on each side. Brake cylinder dry, flushed off brake dust
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CarlJT
Member
Knocked piston out with chisel.. pins probably need replacing if I can find... Where is proportioning valve? Should it be adjusted? Piston and bored were clean no pits or grooves some heat marks. I've got silicone paste for parts....
Been a while
Member
Hiting things with hammers will knock things out of shape, careful with pistons, you know about square pegs and round holes- right. Can I see the piston you're talking about?
In fact the tolerances on those pistons and bores are so tight that a pistons can wear in ways that if you fit them to a bore they didn't come from, they can become jammed and seized when you apply pressure from the pedal.. sure you'll get them to move by hand but once you add hydrolic pressure the piston can angle itself in the bore..
Partsouq, Amayama enter VIN and your away.... Anything that moves replace and start at the master cylinder and work down from there . X4 pistons x4 pins x2 full seal kits x1 master cylinder kit x1 pad kit and you will find allllll the rear brake parts there too..
Make sure you know what grease goes where, use ceramic on pins! All the best..
There are posts on here about brakes you can look at also, if you can find them... I can never get the search to work, I can't even find my own posts on it ...
In fact the tolerances on those pistons and bores are so tight that a pistons can wear in ways that if you fit them to a bore they didn't come from, they can become jammed and seized when you apply pressure from the pedal.. sure you'll get them to move by hand but once you add hydrolic pressure the piston can angle itself in the bore..
Partsouq, Amayama enter VIN and your away.... Anything that moves replace and start at the master cylinder and work down from there . X4 pistons x4 pins x2 full seal kits x1 master cylinder kit x1 pad kit and you will find allllll the rear brake parts there too..
Make sure you know what grease goes where, use ceramic on pins! All the best..
There are posts on here about brakes you can look at also, if you can find them... I can never get the search to work, I can't even find my own posts on it ...
CarlJT
Member
I've ordered all front brake parts, trying to work out all rear parts needed. Not overly familiar with everything I need for rear though
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Been a while
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Mate, showing pictures of parts covered in crap makes it very hard to see what's going on with them... like I wrote earlier bloke, clean all parts first!
But if you have hit that piston in any shape or form at ANY force you need to replace them... you are playing with brake parts mate, didn't you just end up on a pole! Can you really trust that caliper now! NO! Well I wouldn't! Pole today- a family tomorrow!
Have you damaged the bore at that piston? I'd be getting in there with a magnifying glass bud...
The reason the master cylinder kit is the first thing you replace is, that way you know you are getting the full and correct pressure to front and rear lines!
But if you have hit that piston in any shape or form at ANY force you need to replace them... you are playing with brake parts mate, didn't you just end up on a pole! Can you really trust that caliper now! NO! Well I wouldn't! Pole today- a family tomorrow!
Have you damaged the bore at that piston? I'd be getting in there with a magnifying glass bud...
The reason the master cylinder kit is the first thing you replace is, that way you know you are getting the full and correct pressure to front and rear lines!
CarlJT
Member
I will get better photos when Im Home. I am replacing all parts hence the no care hammering. Will look for master cylinder kit
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CarlJT
Member
Have now sorted. Thanks
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Been a while
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Ok cool, your away... good job..no need for me bud, cheers...
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