Engine running bad, Bad fuel injection?

[Loke_1337]

So i started having problems with my 1999 td25 this winter, i fueled it with a can that had been outside and it turns out there was a bunch of water in the can so all the diesel/water had frozen solid in the fuel filter so i went and changed it, no problems but now a couple weeks after the engine is running very poorly, i can keep it at a steady 3000rpm but if i go any lower it will start to lose rpm and or die
This doesnt happen instantly but after i drive it for like 10 mins, so to fix the losing rpm i jump out and go pump the diesel manually on the fuel filter holder. i also have to pump it in order to start, i think diesel is running back into the tank?

Thanks for any help, Im clueless.

 

[[email protected]]

its sucking in air after you put in filter , unscrew your filter you may find more rubbish in there put a bit of oil on rubber seal. does your filter have removable water drain tap attachement clean that , always oil the rubber seals when assembling and tighten to specifications..

 

[Loke_1337]

its sucking in air after you put in filter , unscrew your filter you may find more rubbish in there put a bit of oil on rubber seal. does your filter have removable water drain tap attachement clean that , always oil the rubber seals when assembling and tighten to specifications..

Hey! Thanks for your reply, I have already done these things actually. I tried swapping fuel filters 2 times. first time i didnt clean or anything, second time i thoroughly cleaned it and i also put some diesel on the rubber seal, Water tap has also been cleaned thoroughly cleaned at the second filter change. It's also tightended to the correct specifications. Thanks!

 

[tweak'e]

the TD engines often have a gauze fitted in the inlet banjo on the injection pump. often they block up and cause fuel starving issues.

 

[[email protected]]

water in lines that freezes will cause lines to fracture and also primer pump to have a leak

mentioned before ,had problem with 1998 nav happened after i used contaminated diesel ; partially blocked inlet in tank ,fouled filter plus gauze ,symptoms were. couldn''t go over 60klm/hr.. if there is a gauze or line is partially blocked inside tank. initial rev to 3000 would have more suction then when you back off there is less suction which is not enough to pull up ,diesel . when i had my unrelated problem i first cleaned gauze at pump replaced filters drove it still didnt have any power untill i drove into servo disconnected inlet at filter removed tank cap (tried lung power to blow back into tank and realized line felt completely blocked) so i gave the line a good burst of compressed air used a rim valve to connect to line , i heard a loud thump in tank which i presumed was a gauze or rubbish popping off at end of line.
a SMALL air leak would cause the same problem.. there is ALSO a FUEL PRESSURE regulating valve in system google this or go to utube.. plus i guess many other problems , i guess with modern vehicles fault code to start with would make it easier to diagnose
has any one tried disconnecting inlet &out let at filter and air pressurizing it both ways to see if any leaks on seals and primer pump, my tank has joiners to be able t remove fuel tank could be small leak there

 

[Scotty m]

the TD engines often have a gauze fitted in the inlet banjo on the injection pump. often they block up and cause fuel starving issues.

Hi guys how are you my injector pump nav 3 litre td 2006 zd 30 i have been attempting to fault find before i can look a a pump obviously i must discredit all other possibilities. before purchasing and installing Just breifly I have installed a new fuel filter I have certainly got fuel going to the injector pump ok but the motor cranks but will not fire I have looked at my timing chain realigned it should be set in a correct timing position and I have checked all other common things on the blue plug which has can High can low I am getting 9.2 vault on both of them the other wire in that line I am getting 2 volt and that is the same when I am cranking ring motor on the other line I have ground no problem positive red 12 volt no problem however the red blue wire I believe is a pump shut off when it has voltage I am getting 1.2 to 1.3 volts whilst cranking the engineiim hoping this may be the meaning of another engine fault causing the control to shut of the pump from working do you guys have any information in this and advice on whats my next step from here should be thanks so much for your help i really need it..I just made a small error the actual voltage is 2 just over on can high and 2.9 on can low then 9.2 on the blue silver wire then negative to ground is good red 12 so there ok and blue red O but 1.2 to 1.3 when i try to crank it which is the one i believe must be 0 volts when cranking as thi is cuttoff having voltage on blue red am i correct and what could this mean i replied here with needing help myself im sorry but sounds like you may be familiar with my problem thanks

 

[Been a while]

Hi guys how are you my injector pump nav 3 litre td 2006 zd 30 i have been attempting to fault find before i can look a a pump obviously i must discredit all other possibilities. before purchasing and installing Just breifly I have installed a new fuel filter I have certainly got fuel going to the injector pump ok but the motor cranks but will not fire I have looked at my timing chain realigned it should be set in a correct timing position and I have checked all other common things on the blue plug which has can High can low I am getting 9.2 vault on both of them the other wire in that line I am getting 2 volt and that is the same when I am cranking ring motor on the other line I have ground no problem positive red 12 volt no problem however the red blue wire I believe is a pump shut off when it has voltage I am getting 1.2 to 1.3 volts whilst cranking the engineiim hoping this may be the meaning of another engine fault causing the control to shut of the pump from working do you guys have any information in this and advice on whats my next step from here should be thanks so much for your help i really need it..I just made a small error the actual voltage is 2 just over on can high and 2.9 on can low then 9.2 on the blue silver wire then negative to ground is good red 12 so there ok and blue red O but 1.2 to 1.3 when i try to crank it which is the one i believe must be 0 volts when cranking as thi is cuttoff having voltage on blue red am i correct and what could this mean i replied here with needing help myself im sorry but sounds like you may be familiar with my problem thanks

Howdy, look at the battery volts when starting ,"try a jump start it with a another battery", and then look at the starter motor! I had pump issues and one of the things I was told is, if you have a starter on the way out they can be the cause of the pump not getting enough volts to turn the pump on...
Have you done a code read to see what codes are being logged?

Good luck