Concerning economy!!!

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I'm going to say one thing I have noticed a lot a gps does not measure up and down hill it measures the earth as flat hence point a- point b so it will always be different to actual distance travelled
 
You'll actually find that economy - particularly in the city with the stop-start driving - will get worse. Larger tyres mean it's harder to turn the wheel over (longer lever from axle to outside of tyre) so more juice is needed to get the vehicle going. It'll also feel a little sluggish. I went from 255/70R16 to 265/70R16 (that's a small increase, really - 10mm of width and 7mm of axle height) and wore nearly a whole litre per hundred km of extra fuel consumption.

Your speedo inaccuracy is all in the needle. If you query the ECU, and compare it to a GPS, you'll find that the car actually knows the speed fairly accurately, it just has a stupid dicky needle.

Tony could this be because the speedo also reads more accurately with bigger tyres?Mine is 10% out at 100ks [90ks true]running standard 265 70r16 checked with Tomtom & Garmin 60csx.If it reads right with bigger tyres would that account for 10% less fuel econ?Hugh
 
insanenavara, pretty sure it depends on your gps. A lot of them read elevation, so it wouldn't be hard for the software to work out correct distance traveled.

when i put my larger tyres on my economy went out the window to like 13l/100 but when i checked my odo compared to my gps on half a dozen long straight strips i found my odo was 6% lower then the gps on every trip, my speedo was also around 7% faster. factor that into fuel consumption calculations and it comes back to around 11l/100 which i think it about right for the mods.
 
Small point, if you are doing mostly country driving... what does your air filter look like at a service?? maybe consider a sock??
 
Tony could this be because the speedo also reads more accurately with bigger tyres?Mine is 10% out at 100ks [90ks true]running standard 265 70r16 checked with Tomtom & Garmin 60csx.If it reads right with bigger tyres would that account for 10% less fuel econ?Hugh

It's only the needle that's more accurate. Because the ECU is quite accurate on standard tyres, the odometer is similarly accurate on standard tyres and when you put bigger shoes on, the speedo might LOOK more accurate, but the ECU and odometer will be less accurate.

In my spreadsheet I accounted for tyre size adjusting the odometer reading, so my fuel figures are fairly accurate (give or take bowser metering and my inability to fill the tank exactly each time).
 
Small point, if you are doing mostly country driving... what does your air filter look like at a service?? maybe consider a sock??

Mine's full of bugs. Pull it out now and again and give it a shake, it's an entomologist's playground. Have even used the cordless Dyson in the bottom of the main chamber.
 
Mine's full of bugs. Pull it out now and again and give it a shake, it's an entomologist's playground. Have even used the cordless Dyson in the bottom of the main chamber.

Heavy duty flyscreen mesh in the snorkel head, cut to size and held in buy the snorkel mesh
 
It's only the needle that's more accurate. Because the ECU is quite accurate on standard tyres, the odometer is similarly accurate on standard tyres and when you put bigger shoes on, the speedo might LOOK more accurate, but the ECU and odometer will be less accurate.

In my spreadsheet I accounted for tyre size adjusting the odometer reading, so my fuel figures are fairly accurate (give or take bowser metering and my inability to fill the tank exactly each time).

No probs,will do a distance check on odo.Hugh
 
Heavy duty flyscreen mesh in the snorkel head, cut to size and held in buy the snorkel mesh

good idea :) also I forgot that my odo is out now that i'm running 32's, so my fuel economy is actually better than I thought! I'm dropping freeway cruise speed to 100km/hr this tank to see if I can better it at all.
 
i bought my D22 on november 2012, made 20000 kms, lots of fill ups with differents conditions.

daily drive around 100km, bitumen going throu hill climbs i get 10km/100L.

100% offroading( sea level up to 5000 meters over sea level) 14km/100L

towing (my partner's Isuzu Trooper V6 3.3, ready for 4x4 competitions around 2.2tons) 14km/100L aswell.

im very happy with those numbers, cause my old suzuki grand vitara 1st gen 1.6 16v had same consumption with less motor and HPs under the hood!! and the cost of diesel per liter is about USD$1.29, good enough.


greetings!

Ps: 2007 jap built nissan D22 YD25 Motor, 265/75/R16.
 
Ive only got a DX 2.5 CR but since I replaced the 195/14'' wheels with 195/15 my economy has improved heaps last fill was 66 litres with a 650 km distance travelled which was mostly suburban driving which works out to be 10.1 litres per 100 km ,
The spedo used to be out 10% before I changed the wheels its now only 3% so on the M4 at 110kph the GPS is reading 107kph,
So if you have a Dx upgrade to the larger wheels ,
 
Hey men,
Mines a 2011 Nav and I get around 9.8l per hundred give or take. I do about 80kays a day. I don't drive it hard, I just drive it. Maybe after this service you may get better economy?? Is 30,000 a major. Not sure if this helps, just wanted to contribute :)
 
2010 d22

Average 12 to 12.5L/100 on road.

Off road about 15L.

35" rims with 5" lift + 25psi boost + FMIC so probably reasonable for the mods
 
G'day

Well the sager rolls on. It's going to Nissan in 2weeks so maybe some form of answer might happen.

Over the last 5000 od Kay's I had noticed that she was puffing a fair amount of black smoke on take off and gear changes when going slow from 1st to 2nd. I've since done the egr blank off and it would seam that the smoke has decreased a small amount but after following the misses home tonight while she was driving it its still there just the same. The egr plate as been in there for about 2000 Kay's now. Fuel use hasn't changed.

The next thing to complain about is what I suspect to be a brokers body mount on the front left. Started off like a small knocking sound but now sounds like a kid with a mash hammer on dads steel bench when hitting just small bumps in the rd.

Cheers
 
G'day lads,
Just did a fairly big highway trip, and I've worked out at the present I'm using 15L Per hundred!
Yes the girl is getting long in the tooth. Just clocked over 300010 on the clock.
I'm not very sure on its previous service history.
But I have serviced her every 5000 km.

It has a snorkel fitted.(yes unusual for a V6)

It has a k & N air filter in the box

2 1/2 inch exhaust (came our with a 2 inch exhaust) no extractors

I run good-quality oil through everything


I do use Caltex or BP (98) most of the time

Should I be looking at getting my injectors cleaned, not sure when They were done??

I do realise it's a petrol V6
But at 15 L per hundred that does seem a bit high to me.

Can someone point me in the right direction.

Any feedback would be great!

Cheers Geoff

YEP!GOT A V6 'BUT I LIKE TO CUSTOMISE.
 
Can I just say that 15LPHK isn't all that bad for a petrol, but: if you spent most of your time around 100km/h or more, that's the answer.

I deliberately drive at specific speeds on level ground with minimal wind a few days ago and looked at the results. I got the same result in both directions, so I'm positive these figures are fairly close to accurate. They might not be accurate to yours, or Fred's car, because each car is different (and hey, mine's a diesel too!) but they tell a very important story about vehicle speed.

At 80km/h my car uses somewhere around the 6.5-7 litres per hour.

At 110km/h my car uses between 13 and 14 litres per hour (more like 13.5-14.5). That's pretty much double the fuel consumed per hour for just 30km/h more.

And that's GOT to be due to wind resistance.

When towing, we try to keep the rig @ 95km/h - I will try to reduce that to 80-90km/h for the next trip at Easter to see how it goes. We've had 15.5LPHK towing the old van (1.8T) in Central Australia (Kings Canyon to Uluru to be precise) and we were REALLY taking our time - so speed is a killer.

That doesn't mean your car couldn't use some injector cleaner, or some new HT leads etc, but it does mean that you shouldn't fear the worst.

300,000km in a petrol - now that's a good run.
 
Thanks very much for your reply Tony
I do run injector cleaner once in awhile, but running the premium fuel 98 it does have those cleaners in it,
So I believe that maybe helping.
I think the next step I will try is new leads, I think you may be onto something there, as the Leads do look a bit old, I think I might give that a go and see what happens.
I will keep you updated if I need more advice.

As I did not even think about Leads.
Someone also suggested that I put the platinum spark plugs in the old girl too.
At a $140 for the set do you think that would be worth a go to with the new leads???

Cheers Geoff

YEP!GOT A V6 'BUT I LIKE TO CUSTOMISE.
 
I've used platinum plugs before and not noticed a whit of difference. I changed to those 'U' plugs ("fatter, hotter spark") and not noticed a great change either, and the salesman was of no use explaining it (just spin). When selling it he was all "turns your Volkswagen into a Ferrari" which if you saw how my VW performed - top speed of 70km/h, you could manage 75 if you wound the windows up - you would have looked around for something better as well.

My personal experience tells me that spark plugs need to be set to the correct gap, cleaned and left to do their job. If they're igniting the fuel their job is done.

HT leads can shed power, reducing the strength of the spark (like dirty plugs) and some of them become brittle when heated in an engine bay - I don't have fond memories of the old leads in my second VW (you think I'd have learned from the first, but the second taught me very well) which used to retain their shape so well, they'd snap as you'd pull the spark plug out.
 

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