Another simple trick.

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baylock

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The History:
Ok, as some may know im having trouble with my head / head gasket at the moment, and cant change it out quite yet, so im looking for a more temp fix to get me through till i have the parts and opportunity to do it.

Process so far:
I have tried running some:
http://www.supercheapauto.com.au/on...-Copper-Block-Seal-510g.aspx?pid=290751#Cross
Bit it did little / no good, and i am putting some of that down to how the thermostat works on the ZD30, as my replacement radiator was working so well that the bottom pipe was always pretty cold to the touch after a run, this tells me that the fluid was probably not getting circulated into the motor properly.

The Trick:
Have switched to trying out some:
http://www.supercheapauto.com.au/on...ne-Head-Gasket-Fix-680g.aspx?pid=290752#Cross
but this time instead of 'adding it to the radiator' i pre mixed it befor purring it in the actual process i followed was this:

1. Install small amount in block vie upper radiator hose.
2. Mix remainder in clean 10L drum
3. As the cooling system is 11L i first put about 2L of water in the bottom of the radiator.
4. Pore mix into radiator using a 1L container, a bit more time consuming than poring it out of the 10L drum, but the advantages of doing it 1L at a time are better control, less chance of spillage, and you can more closely monitor the amount going in so you know if you have only put in 7L and its full, something is wrong, and if you put in 15L and its still not full then there is something else wrong.

This method should have distributed the gunk evenly, ill report back after i see if it makes a difference.
 
the best stuff ive used and used on a few mate's cars and they have had there mates use it is "SEAL-UP" you can buy it from supercheap or repco , if you make sure you get out all the coolant it will work 100%
 
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^auto downloads the PDF so you'll need to give it a bit to show up depending on your internet connection.

Instead of having to download it I'll supply the image.

5xy1v.png
 
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I hope it works. It states that it handles 538C, I wonder how it will cope with the 600C+ that our engines produce under load (have heard higher than 700C EGT reported).
 
tony it works trust me, i have used it in my old D22 when the head was that bad it was actually letting enough water in to hydraulic lock the motor due to me going through a dam without a snorkel.

Anyway i put that in as a temporary fix, BUT it worked so well it stayed fixed for over 170,000km until it got sank and written off. (not the actual seal-up it got flushed out as per instructions.)

I was told about it from my mates father who has been a plant mechanic for 45 years, he put it in a kenworth that was using over 15lt of water every 100 odd km, 4 bottles and the truck ran load after load in and out of the sand mines for years.

Since i found out about it i have told heaps of people about it and all but one it has worked on and the only reason it didnt work in that case was i suspect he didnt flush out ALL of the coolant.

I put some in a mates Triton a few months back and it is fine, he like me cant believe how well it actually works.

The only thing is as i said is making sure you get the coolant out, most people only flush the radiator and not the heater coil, i pull the hoses off the heater and stick the garden hose in one and allow the water to run out the other side until it is clear.

Those temps are at the extreme of the exhaust temps and would never get that high when next to a water jacket, and that where the SEAL-UP would be working (in a water jacket) have you ever seen the water temp get that high?
 
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The problem I still seem to have is that the crack is only letting gas out, it is not letting coolant flow into the hole to fill up the gap :/
 
Those temps are at the extreme of the exhaust temps and would never get that high when next to a water jacket, and that where the SEAL-UP would be working (in a water jacket) have you ever seen the water temp get that high?

Coolant won't, but Seal-Up fills a crack that reaches through to the combustion chamber so it's going to be exposed to some significantly higher temps.

However, the news that it works that well must mean that it's capable of handling it, even if it doesn't say it "on the box".
 
The exhaust gas in the combustion chamber or in the exhaust it self may briefly reach those temps when under load, but the metal which has water on the other side wouldnt.
 
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