Hi I am jez
- Thread starter Jezjoco
- Start date
Help Support Nissan Navara Forum:
Hi Jez, what model Nissan Navara? Year? Build?
How many kays on the ride and other then a lack of power, are there any other symptoms? Is it smoke?
Are you able to check and read if it's throwing any error codes?
You could replace your boos solenoid, if it isn't the problem, you've wasted the coin and still have the issue
How many kays on the ride and other then a lack of power, are there any other symptoms? Is it smoke?
Are you able to check and read if it's throwing any error codes?
You could replace your boos solenoid, if it isn't the problem, you've wasted the coin and still have the issue
^ Absolutely right. Test first, best done if you can monitor turbo boost pressure (bluetooth OBD adapter + phone app = simple). Easy to do: disconnect the vac hose from the actuator. Take the hose off the BCS that comes across the top of the engine and connect this hose to the actuator. Drive the car. If boost has returned, the BCS is shot. Replacements are either Nissan (over $200), eBay (under $50) or Tillix/Dawes valve (under $200).
Make sure the turbocharger is ok - manually (new piece of hose to be safe) try operating the actuator. Watch the arm underneath and suck on the other end of a new piece of hose attached to the actuator. The arm should move easily. If not, the actuator diaphragm is damaged. Pop the intake hose off the turbocharger and wiggle the shaft. If there's no movement and it turns freely it's probably ok. Remove the flexible hose on the OUTPUT of the turbocharger, wipe your finger on the inside and check your finger under a bright light, looking for sparkles (metal). Sparkles = busted turbo.
If the problem persists, try again after using new hose across the top of the motor.
If the problem STILL persists, either your vac pump has failed (never heard of this happening that I can recall) or your brake booster has a damaged vac diaphragm in it (if your brakes need more muscle to use them than before, this is definitely likely).
There might be other issues at play (leaking EGR, poor electrical connections etc). Let's get some basic diagnostics done first and we'll go from there.
Make sure the turbocharger is ok - manually (new piece of hose to be safe) try operating the actuator. Watch the arm underneath and suck on the other end of a new piece of hose attached to the actuator. The arm should move easily. If not, the actuator diaphragm is damaged. Pop the intake hose off the turbocharger and wiggle the shaft. If there's no movement and it turns freely it's probably ok. Remove the flexible hose on the OUTPUT of the turbocharger, wipe your finger on the inside and check your finger under a bright light, looking for sparkles (metal). Sparkles = busted turbo.
If the problem persists, try again after using new hose across the top of the motor.
If the problem STILL persists, either your vac pump has failed (never heard of this happening that I can recall) or your brake booster has a damaged vac diaphragm in it (if your brakes need more muscle to use them than before, this is definitely likely).
There might be other issues at play (leaking EGR, poor electrical connections etc). Let's get some basic diagnostics done first and we'll go from there.
It’s 2017 2.3 80 k Nissan saying maf done that bought two boost solonoids to put on it ,no codes nothing just no turbo power ,got a whistle but know guts
