EGR disable for D40 v9x engine

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If anyone has the electrical wiring diagram or schematic showing it we can do some research, or the manufacturers part number. Could be resistance proportional to airflow or a differential air flow device I'm guessing.
 
Hi All

The $130 EGR mod cable is just a resistor inserted in series with the MAF temperature sensor wiring.
Most of the $130 cost is in the male/female connectors allowing the resistor to be inserted via this insertion adapter.
The same electrical achievement can be bought on Bay for about $20, you get a resistor plus wiring information on where to solder in the resistor.
The MAF inlet temp. sensor is a neg co-efficient type resistor ( resistance will decrease with an increase in temperature).

My interpretation of the EGR control.

For EGR control, ECU is monitoring engine cooling temp, RPM, vehicle speed, barometric pressure, mass airflow, accelerator position, a/con on or off etc.
When inlet air temp. is cold, sensor resistance is relatively high, ECU reads this & other relative inputs & keeps the EGR volume control valve closed.
As inlet air temp. increases, sensor resistance drops, ECU monitoring other inputs, engine water temp, RPM etc will then start to command the control valve open.

The $130 or $20 resistor mod inserts a fixed value resistor in series with the neg temp sensor resistor. This keeps the inlet temperature resistance sensed by the ECU as high (cold), EGR valve stays closed.

My concern is what else is effected by the ECU seeing cold inlet air, fuel calculations etc..

Some EGR wiring info for those interested.

EGR control from ECU & position feedback to ECU.

EGR volume control valve is a DC motor.
Feedback consists of a permanent magnet & a Hall effect IC monitoring the motor shaft position.
Connector (designation F9) on the EGR supplies control power to DC motor for valve positioning & feedback power & signal return.
Pins 1, 3 & 5 are input & output for position sensor info to ECU.
Pins 6 & 2 are power/ground inputs for motor rotation direction.
ECU connectors E207 & F62 link with EGR connector F9
EGR feedback contact 1 (grey colour wire) to ECU E207 contact 40 via a wire to wire connector/receptacle designated F2 & E8 contact 8.
EGR feedback contact 3 (white colour wire) to ECU F62 contact 150.
EGR feedback contact 5 (brown colour wire) to ECU F62 contact 135.
EGR motor contact 2 (red colour wire) to ECU F62 contact 143.
EGR motor contact 6 (blue colour wire) to ECU F62 contact 144.

If planning on doing any wiring checks between ECU connectors & any other components for continuity & or shorts :
Ignition off.
Wait 4 minutes.
Disconnect battery negative.
Remove ECU connectors.
Do not use multimeter on component connectors with ECU connectors still in place.

Enough
 
Hi All

The $130 EGR mod cable is just a resistor inserted in series with the MAF temperature sensor wiring.
Most of the $130 cost is in the male/female connectors allowing the resistor to be inserted via this insertion adapter.
The same electrical achievement can be bought on Bay for about $20, you get a resistor plus wiring information on where to solder in the resistor.
The MAF inlet temp. sensor is a neg co-efficient type resistor ( resistance will decrease with an increase in temperature).

My interpretation of the EGR control.

For EGR control, ECU is monitoring engine cooling temp, RPM, vehicle speed, barometric pressure, mass airflow, accelerator position, a/con on or off etc.
When inlet air temp. is cold, sensor resistance is relatively high, ECU reads this & other relative inputs & keeps the EGR volume control valve closed.
As inlet air temp. increases, sensor resistance drops, ECU monitoring other inputs, engine water temp, RPM etc will then start to command the control valve open.

The $130 or $20 resistor mod inserts a fixed value resistor in series with the neg temp sensor resistor. This keeps the inlet temperature resistance sensed by the ECU as high (cold), EGR valve stays closed.

My concern is what else is effected by the ECU seeing cold inlet air, fuel calculations etc..

Some EGR wiring info for those interested.

EGR control from ECU & position feedback to ECU.

EGR volume control valve is a DC motor.
Feedback consists of a permanent magnet & a Hall effect IC monitoring the motor shaft position.
Connector (designation F9) on the EGR supplies control power to DC motor for valve positioning & feedback power & signal return.
Pins 1, 3 & 5 are input & output for position sensor info to ECU.
Pins 6 & 2 are power/ground inputs for motor rotation direction.
ECU connectors E207 & F62 link with EGR connector F9
EGR feedback contact 1 (grey colour wire) to ECU E207 contact 40 via a wire to wire connector/receptacle designated F2 & E8 contact 8.
EGR feedback contact 3 (white colour wire) to ECU F62 contact 150.
EGR feedback contact 5 (brown colour wire) to ECU F62 contact 135.
EGR motor contact 2 (red colour wire) to ECU F62 contact 143.
EGR motor contact 6 (blue colour wire) to ECU F62 contact 144.

If planning on doing any wiring checks between ECU connectors & any other components for continuity & or shorts :
Ignition off.
Wait 4 minutes.
Disconnect battery negative.
Remove ECU connectors.
Do not use multimeter on component connectors with ECU connectors still in place.

Enough
That's great info. Pins 6 power and 2 with pin 2 as ground, I wonder how they change motor direction if one pin is ground?
I guess we need to test fuel consumption with and without the cable fitted. Those with the cable fitted might be able to comment if they had noticed any change.
Thanks for the info
 
That's great info. Pins 6 power and 2 with pin 2 as ground, I wonder how they change motor direction if one pin is ground?
I guess we need to test fuel consumption with and without the cable fitted. Those with the cable fitted might be able to comment if they had noticed any change.
Thanks for the info
I think that the supply for the DC motor is not Power 6 gnd 2 but pwr to 6 or 2 & and opposite for gnd. ECU decides which motor direction & applies pwr and gnd accordingly.
 
After reading lots of contributions regarding egr blanking etc (and the results) it seems there are 3 options (please let me know if there are more)
1. the blanking plate, hole etc and regular clean to prevent flow control codes
2. map it out in the ecu. requires expertise by someone who has the equipment, price?
3. blanking plate and trick the ecu by sending it the flow control voltages to the ecu that it expects to prevent code errors. This is the method that seems logical to me
I notice there are cables advertised on ebay (probably with smarts in them) that claim to achieve it.
Has anyone tried this one below please, at $130 its a bit pricey to try if it doesn't work:)


Option 3/ does in fact make temp sensor near the MAF sensor send back a voltage equivalent to 10C.
1/ At that temperature the EGR never operates.
BUT
2/ The heater near the fuel filter comes on to heat the fuel. No biggy I suppose, just wasted energy.
3/ Assume its 40C outside. Then the diesel air reaction rate will happen faster than what it would at 10C. The ECU will advance the timing to suit 10C.. So on a hot day the injector timing is advanced. I hope it would not be hitting the piston on the way up?
Perhaps the change of timing is only tiny and there are no bad effects?
 
Here's an interesting short view on the power reduction with the MAF resistor hack


That's what I expected by mucking with the MAFS - the ECU gets the oxygen levels wrong and adjusts the fuel incorrectly.

I don't see it doing a huge amount of damage, but it's going to use more fuel and have less grunt (and blow even more smoke).
 
Who would have thought it. Trouble free for 250k Kms. Less than a week after posting I don't have issues, I get an EGR code....

Thanks ,,,🤥

Not 100% sure I've sorted it though!

Yes, some kind of air flow monitor similar to a MAF that outputs air flow rates in the form of resistance. The ECU then does some comparisons to see if the values are within tolerance.

I have just replaced the EGR valve, the P0408 code kept coming up.
Quite a simple job, apart from one bolt that I could only turn one click at a time with an 8mm ratchet spanner. I reckon about 350 clicks to undo it.
As with my previous post 250k Kms with hardly any soot build up, so it seems like it isn't the soot that causes it to fail.
I doubt that I will need to change it again.
 
So my v9x i just fitted a egr blanking plate and had the egr electronically disabled. Yet the engine light came on (with cruise control failure) again for a flow issue, any ideas if i have missed something? Or what else can cause similar flow issues?
 
So my v9x i just fitted a egr blanking plate and had the egr electronically disabled. Yet the engine light came on (with cruise control failure) again for a flow issue, any ideas if i have missed something? Or what else can cause similar flow issues?
Take the blanking plate out.
 
When my EHR failed, the only sign initially was the cruise not setting. Something to do with the maf readings not matching the EGR flow readings. Not sure how the EGR measures gas flow.
It is possible that the delete didn't work?
 
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