D40 2006 - EGR Cooler tube cracked

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Joined
Jan 22, 2022
Messages
60
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17
Location
Tsonjingboldog / Mongolia
Hi all
EGR COOLER.jpg

My 'EGR Cooler' tube is cracked.
Can I make this myself?
What is +/- the price?
 
depending on exactly where the crack is you could get it welded back together. however welds are prone to cracking.
no idea on replacement cost as that would depend greatly on where you get it from.

the other option is to block off the egr all together and remove it.
 
That's why I asked you how strict the emission control laws were in Mongolia. Blocking the EGR is illegal, but very hard to detect.

That part of the EGR tube is designed to be flexible (to a degree). Welding it will stiffen it and will probably crack again, so as @tweak'e says, it's either replace it or block it.

If your laws are strict, don't risk it, see if you can get a replacement from a wreck? There are some on eBay but they're around the AUD$350 mark (about 2300 SEK?).

Otherwise if the laws aren't too strict, block it off. You will need to block both ends, because the pipe's cracked and you don't want exhaust gas leaking into the engine bay or boost pressure to be lost - grab some 3mm mild steel sheet and make copies of the gaskets without the hole in the middle - it's that easy. The 2004 D40 did not have any EGR flow sensors so you won't upset the car.
 
Hi Mongolia from sunny Queensland. I have a 2010 navara d40 (Thai Bld ) diesel/auto. I removed this pipe from mine at about 90000 klms to delete the EGR . It is in very good condition. If you want it, its yours for free. No idea how to get it to you. Let me know.regards TOM
 
Hi Tom,

Thank you so much for your offer, but I'm afraid this pipe won't get to me.
A lot of postal items disappear.
I'm just going to remove the pipe and block the EGR.
Thanks again for your offer.

Greetings from the frozen Tsonjingboldog (-25° during the day).
Peter
 
I don't like your chances, the concertina area looks like it's been through the wars!

It could be brazed. Brazing (brass welded into place using oxy/acetylene) can withstand about 900C before melting, and it's unlikely that this point of the EGR tube will ever get that hot.

It might also be TIG welded, but finding people who are good enough at TIG welding is not easy.
 
i simply would not bother.

welding is half the battle, the other half is how do you line it up so its in the correct position.
 
Hi all,
the EGR Cooler tube has finally been disassembled.
I'm going to see if this can be welded now.
If not, I delete the EGR.
View attachment 36228
Grtz from PeterView attachment 36228
I'm a little curious as to why the coolant inlet and outlet are looped. Could be wrong, but in my (limited) experience this is typically only done if EGR cooler pipe has already been blocked and therefore redundant. Surely its not the case Mongolia is so damn cold you don't bother to cool the exhaust gasses?

I otherwise agree with the others. That pipe is knackered.
 
Hi Chapster,
from the pictures I also understood that something was wrong somewhere.
But the pipe was not blocked during disassembly.
Anyway, I'm going to block everything.
Thanks for the reply
 
Hi Chapster,

you're right, the the coolant inlet and outlet are looped.
As a result, I could remember that a few months ago the engine was partially thrown open.
I just got into the garage during the finish.
Test equipment had been set up and an error message kept coming up.
Then this coolant inlet and outlet have been connected.
Why? I don't know, I don't speak the Mongolian language.
But now everything is blocked.
Now I have to get him started.

thanks
Peter
IMG_20220223_151252.jpg
IMG_20220223_151303.jpg
IMG_20220223_151311.jpg
 
Yesterday I was able to start the beast.
After 3 months of shutdown I installed new glow plugs and it was nice to hear it running.
I couldn't possibly work on it because
1) it's outside and I don't have a garage (yet)
2022-03-06 The beast is hersteld.jpg
2) we've had temperatures of -37°C this winter.
Now to solve the starter problem.
Sometimes it starts and sometimes it doesn't.
 
I really would struggle to do -37C, but then I've also struggled when we hit +50C here.

When it doesn't start, is it turning over or is it not getting that far? Can you try priming the fuel system and count how many times you squeeze the primer before it gets firm?
 

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