CPU programing AP Tuning

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Jardsoooo

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I've been chatting to Rodger at AP Tuning in the last couple of days about getting me some power below 1500 rpm. ( I think this is most apparent with the detuned 4 x 2 engine ).

He was'nt keen at first. Said he did'nt want to be responsible for a trashed clutch.

After I explained to him that I had'nt had a nanny since I was on the breast and did'nt need one now he relented and said he could, as long as I signed a ' trashed clutch ' waiver. Gees.

The reality is that with the current set up there is greater risk to the clutch by having to slip it to get moving. I would'nt dream of trying to pull a boat up a ramp

Anyway he can do the job for $1000+. He also offers a drive and try reset to factory and money back if not happy deal.

My only problem ( and possibly his) is that I am one of those types who needs a long and detailed explanation ( doctors dont like me). In this case what functions, what parameters are being tinkered with and why would'nt Nissan have just done that in the first place if it were so easy.

I dont think he can do that till the info has been sent over to his programmer in the UK ie when already committed ( so to speak_) and the pommy checks it out the code and translates it to english.

Anyway he is going to let me know when he is in Adelaide in the next while so may catch up and find out more then
 
If you are really one for detailed explanations then I'd go prepared with a long list of questions. I realise a forum isn't always the easiest place to ask or answer questions and often things get lost in the wording but personally with the information I got both locally and from the UK regarding this procedure there is no way I'd risk doing it.

Please note: I'm not suggesting either APT or the UK supplier are dodgy or going to cause issues and I'm not trying to bad mouth them but considering the potential ECU adjusting could cause there is a number of questions I posed which were not answered to my satisfaction. Each to their own but I believe you need to be prepared with a lot more than just a "trashed clutch' waiver.
 
I can understand the trashed clutch. Thing has a DMF, unlike the D22 which doesn't have the flat spot below 1500rpm. The D22 brings its power on earlier than the D40. Increasing the power of the D40 down low without moving to a solid flywheel will probably ruin the clutch in a very short time.

I'm wondering how he's going to increase the power down that low with just a remap though. It'll have to be something to do with the turbo actuator opening the vanes more at low RPM. I doubt the turbo is spinning hard enough to do much good though. Gonna be interesting if they can squeeze much out of it.
 
ang on ang on I have been working on the idea that as the vanes extend or open, ( or fan out or whatever ) the greater the airflow over the turbine is restricted. This being the case the vanes are already at a position to do the least harm to performance at low revs - which is kinds the point of the VVT ?

I've always felt that fuel is simply not being delivered.

To illustrate the point I have push the throttle down a good 30 or 40 mm whilst in neutral or 1st to get the revs to even start to increase.

Once up and traveling however the pedal is responsive to the lightest touch.

The pedal responsivness is actually speed related.

The threshhold is 25 - 30 kph. Above that I get a proper pedal. Below that is mush.

I can actually get the engine to hunt quite dramaticly but traveling at the threshold speed in 2nd and slipping the clutch a little. ( trust me I've got very good at judicious clutch slipping ).

And Old.Tony yeah I get the idea about the DMF. So what you are saying is that Nisan deliberately traded off low down power for a smoother drive train to allow for the lowest common denominator.

Looks like a project not fully developed to me. A kneejerk reation to lots of destroyed clutches.

And as you said the D22 does'nt have the same problem tho it runs the same engine- just because it has a stronger clutch.

I wonder how I would go fitting a D22 ecu or for that matter a 4 x 4 D40 ecu. Any body have any thoughts on this
 
So what you are saying is that Nisan deliberately traded off low down power for a smoother drive train to allow for the lowest common denominator.

Not just Nissan

I wonder how I would go fitting a D22 ecu or for that matter a 4 x 4 D40 ecu. Any body have any thoughts on this

Even if the the chips matched electronically the chances of swapping one for another and not having other issues would be fairly low. Each ECU would do different things, each ECU would have different controls and each ECU would be looking for stuff that isn't present. So you'd be back to Flashing the D22 ECU into a D40 anyway.

There has been past talk about swapping Thai ECU's for Spain ECU's given that they are both D40's but I'm not sure that anyone has done that either.
 
as far as clutchs go, the early D40's where chewing clutches so nissan reprogrammed the ecu. when vehicles got serviced the "upgrade" was uploaded to the ecu. if you remember there was many owners annoyed their d40's where suddenly slow off the mark.
 
And Old.Tony yeah I get the idea about the DMF. So what you are saying is that Nisan deliberately traded off low down power for a smoother drive train to allow for the lowest common denominator.

Looks like a project not fully developed to me. A kneejerk reation to lots of destroyed clutches.

I dont think you do get the idea......


The DMF clutch is yes for a smoother take off...but for strength, a well built SMF clutch is the go....

The biggest problem with both these vehicles is not low down power, but, shite 1st gearing.....

You want more power below 1500....simple.....put MORE Ci's in.
 
And Old.Tony yeah I get the idea about the DMF. So what you are saying is that Nisan deliberately traded off low down power for a smoother drive train to allow for the lowest common denominator.

Looks like a project not fully developed to me. A kneejerk reation to lots of destroyed clutches.

And as you said the D22 does'nt have the same problem tho it runs the same engine- just because it has a stronger clutch.

I wonder how I would go fitting a D22 ecu or for that matter a 4 x 4 D40 ecu. Any body have any thoughts on this

As Krafty rightly points out, it's not just Nissan.

The dramatic rise in dual-cab ute sales is partially due to their almost car-like performance. They're smooth, powerful and have a gentle ride. Hop in a 'Lux of 15 years vintage and compare ... particularly one with genuine suspension on it. A few potholes and your ass will feel like you've just spent time as a glory hole for the entire Manly football team.

One of the ways that they're achieving this smoothness is the dual-mass flywheel. It takes out a lot of the vibration that the engine naturally creates.

The D40 did trade off power, absolutely. In return for some considerable (class-leading, in fact) ponies at cruising speeds, you're left with a few miserable donkeys at slower pace.

The D22 doesn't have the same turbocharger as the D40. They have different heads, different valve arrangements, different injectors and fuel rails as well.

They're actually quite a small engine. They're capable of a bit more power without the turbo up to speed, but for lots more beans from an essentially normally-aspirated engine, you're looking for a larger engine.
 
I might point out that with the new' clean earth' or ' reset ' regime the power is feeding in a lot smoother. I keep holding my breath waiting for the usual take off bog down but so far so good
 
What's a Ci Krankin? If you are saying that 1st gear is too high then yes I would certainly agree with that . Pulling both 1st and 2nd back a little to get to the 1500 quicker would be very helpful.
 
Ci = Cubic Inches. It's a fact - the more cubes, the more pubes. For pure power you cannot beat engine capacity. Of course, you have to be prepared to provide the fuel for that too.

And yes, 1st gear in the D40 manual is a little too tall. In the auto you don't notice it so much because the TC lets you rev past that without consequence.
 
and a correction- earlier in this thread I was discussing the mushy throttle pedal being speed related. Had a play around today and in fact mushy pedal is all to do with 1st gear. Ground speed has no impact. Could'nt get mushy pedal in 2nd no matter how slow it was traveling and how low the revs got.
No doubt in my mind at least that mushy pedal is programmed that way.
 
Old.Tony I'm assuming you have an auto ?( dunno why - perhaps its the 'Old.) Would be interesting to get some feedback from other manual drivers on the 1st gear mush thing.
 
Yes, I have an auto 4WD - although I've driven the manual as well, and there have been more than a few people on this forum who have complained about the tall gearing.

I thought I'd ask about its performance in 4LO because it'd be silly to cripple the car like that in 4LO, but if it's 2WD only then they could very well have crippled it to prevent (reduce) damage to the clutch.
 

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