71MME
Member
my CVS are fine, the ball joints are weak, with a nylon socket and steel ball, the rose joint is all steel.
Adjustable upper arms and strut spacers
- Thread starter black 40
- Start date
Help Support Nissan Navara Forum:
From memory I think that a 15mm thick spacer will give roughly 20-25mm of actual lift, and 30mm will give 40-50mm of actual lift.
Aussie Frontier
Member
We worked out some specs a few years ago on ClubFrontier
These arent exact but are fairly close
I worked the following out by using dimensions from the various manufacturers
1.75" Spacer = 3" lift
1.50" Spacer = 2.5" Lift
1.25" Spacer = 2" Lift
1.00" Spacer = 1.5" Lift
0.75" Spacer = 1" Lift
and then in Metric
42mm Spacer = 75mm Lift
36mm Spacer = 62mm Lift
32mm Spacer = 50mm Lift
25mm Spacer = 37mm Lift
18mm Spacer = 25mm Lift
thats using the rule that for every 1/4" of spacer thickness we get 1/2" of lift or 6mm spacer to get 12mm of lift
These arent exact but are fairly close
I worked the following out by using dimensions from the various manufacturers
1.75" Spacer = 3" lift
1.50" Spacer = 2.5" Lift
1.25" Spacer = 2" Lift
1.00" Spacer = 1.5" Lift
0.75" Spacer = 1" Lift
and then in Metric
42mm Spacer = 75mm Lift
36mm Spacer = 62mm Lift
32mm Spacer = 50mm Lift
25mm Spacer = 37mm Lift
18mm Spacer = 25mm Lift
thats using the rule that for every 1/4" of spacer thickness we get 1/2" of lift or 6mm spacer to get 12mm of lift
Passage GT
Member
did this end up with enough lift to fit 33s?
camo.b
Member
Yep 2.5 " spacers will get you there...pretty sure you always need to re move the front mud flaps
Passage GT
Member
that's cool, so bear with me, as i'm new to the ifs world, if i buy these adjustable UCA's and spacer it will give me enough clearance to fit the 33s?
what would i need to do in the rear.
the car already has an OME 2 inch lift.
Thanks for your help!
what would i need to do in the rear.
the car already has an OME 2 inch lift.
Thanks for your help!
camo.b
Member
This will work perfectly for you to fit 33's....my only problem when I was running only 2.5' of lift,was the coil bucket contact "clunking".spc upper arms will solve this problem..just remember spc arms have no droop stoppers (also no clunk) so with spacers and spc arms you will gain lift but retain your original droop(thats a good thing) only this means on full droop your cv's might be at a 10º+ angle depending on your amount of lift..this does not concern me as from factory they are up to 10º the other way (inverted) depending on your amount of sag...all in all spc arms ,spacers and 33's its a excellent mod you will love it!
camo.b
Member
Nothing for the rear..pretty sure they will fit on a stock d40....but your 2"lift will be fine.
you can use either blocks or extended shackles and would be a good idea to go a longer shock.
correct me if im wrong, BUt isnt he going to add spacers on top of 2" coil lift?
so he will end up with around 4"lift on front end?
If that is the case then why leave the rear with only 2" lift?
wont he ned to add a bit of height to the rear to keep it level??
camo.b
Member
Haha...I don't even know any more who I'm answering...but your dead right not much point leaving the rears at 2 unless your after a stadium truck!! think I was answering passage gt question....I think.....long day
Passage GT
Member
Thanks heaps for the replies!
as of today my missus is letting me sell her wagon so i can get a GQ to flog off road.
We love the Nav but i am a little concerned about going too hard off road with it, already busted my side steps which is why i was looking at getting 33s for a bit of extra clearance.
as of today my missus is letting me sell her wagon so i can get a GQ to flog off road.
We love the Nav but i am a little concerned about going too hard off road with it, already busted my side steps which is why i was looking at getting 33s for a bit of extra clearance.
jmemgc
Member
Black40 - newbie here as well �� I'm no expert and I haven't had Adj UCA yet from any brand but I'm going that route in a couple of weeks. Performance Suspension on the GC fixed some issues with my lift today and they will have there UCAs that they have been developing in stock in a couple of weeks. I couldn't believe the competitive price especially as I am going to be the test truck. These guys used to do my track cars but are doing 4wds in a big way.
Hey guys, I bought a 2" lift (EFS) Spain d40 2007 stx, rear was 50mm higher than the front, front wheels ended up having positive camber, not ajustable, I bought strust spacers to bring the front up 50mm so it's level, just bought some super pro ajustable upper control arms to fix the camber so it can be adjusted, can't believe there is no adjustment on std ones, I paid $750 for my uca, I need them anyways to put the spacers in, just thought I would put up what's I been through with lifting my truck just to give some guys that are about to do the same thing some feed back as I was lost on where to even start. It's has 32" big horn on king 16" steel rims, and it's very high, ended up being a 4" lift, hope this helps, cheers for your time. 
How many of the guys running the new arms have them engineered??
I looked at the costing today,
this fella charges $150 for first consult ( to choose a brand) then $650 to certify the arms he chooses as good....
that plus parts and shipping is damn near $1300+
I looked at the costing today,
this fella charges $150 for first consult ( to choose a brand) then $650 to certify the arms he chooses as good....
that plus parts and shipping is damn near $1300+
camo.b
Member
If you buy them from bursons/repco arnt they already legal?
Aussie Frontier
Member
I went with Canberra Motor Works and from memory to have the UCA ,Coilovers and wheels done it was around $800 and I had to supply all the materials technical specs for all the components .
Just so happens he also drives an extended chassis D40
jimmy_jay89
Member
yeah the fulcrum ones are engineered
Aussie Frontier
Member
You still need to get an engineers report done in the ACT as anything non factory for wheels and suspension components ( not shocks or springs ) has to be deemed safe for use by an engineer on the roads.
camo.b
Member
Thought so...that's good
