Zd30 went swimming

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Melbzd30

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Hey guys
Really ballsed up yesterday. Got my navara stuck in a big puddle and she flooded. Sat there for probably 2 hrs. Cab full up till just under the dash. In the front bit more in passenher side than drivers.

Got it out and i definitely have water in the gearbox white milky goo dribbling out the top of it when its been running for a while. But problem im having is she drove for km or 2 to get me out of the track. Then started dropping revs to 500rpm in gear. She qont drive now. Revs in neutral but in gear it wont rev. Sometimes i can coax it to move and build revs slowly then it seems ok. But will drop to 500rpm ahain after literally a few moments.

Im thinking the TPS has had a nasty bath. I tried spraying contact cleaner around today but without pulli ng any plugs apart as i was on some fellas lawn where i asked to leave the car. Amd had my young bloke with me so not exactly ideal conditions for qorking on the truck. Im going to tow it home tomorrow or the next day.

Was hoping for anyone thoughts on what they think the throttle fault is. Am i on the right track with TPS?

Did the NPS test amd revs drop in all gears with heat switch on.

Cheers gang
 

bods

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Sounds awesome... Not...

Anyway, the ecu is in the cab, under the centre of the dash, below the radio. I'd be looking at this too, make sure it is nice and dry. Then as you have mentioned, start spraying the electrical connections. Was the vehicle level or nose down?

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Melbzd30

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Nose down. Very wet up around all those pesky electricals. I was surprised how badly the doors let water in.
 

bods

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Yeah not good hey. Hopefully it hasn't killed the ecu for the injector pump. The best thing to do would be get some contact cleaner or wd40 and give all the electrical connections a good spray and see how she goes. I take it you have a snorkel on it?

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Melbzd30

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Yeah have a snorkel. But im thinking the oem snorkel is shithouse. The cyclone drain lets water in. Air filter was damp.

Going to pick it up tomorrow on a trailer. I sprayed around the elec connections with contact cleaner. But when i get it home i will unplug the connections and give it a real good clean and dry in all the connections.

Where is the injector pump ecu?
 

bods

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The injector pump has a small ecu on top of it. Hopefully that hasn't been drowned. I think it is there to control the timing advance but not completely sure as I have a yd25.

Someone else should be able to let you know for sure.

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Rumpig

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Ecu on the fuel pump should be sealed, wouldn't be a problem.
If you had water up to the bottom of the dash the ecu on top of the trans tunnel probably went under.
10mm socket to remove the 2 mounting bolts and to walk the connector plug off the ecu . Access from the drivers side next to where the brake pedal is.
Pull the lid off and let it dry out and spray the plug. Do the same for the plugs on the accel pedal.
 

Rumpig

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Probably should check the transfer case and front diff to, they might have water in them as well.
 

Melbzd30

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Got her back to HQ on the trailer today. Stripped the interior amd carpets. Pulled apart and Sprayed every plug i could find. Left the ecu in position just unplugged it and sprayed. Definitely got wet. After reading your post rumpig ill take the cover off tomorrow spray some more and let it dry

And i was going to do all the fluids in the driveline before this accident anyway had them all in the tray haha. Went and got some cheaper oils today to do some flushes to try remove the water from the GB and anywhere else in managed to find its way into.

She went in passenger side deeper than drivers so i dont think fuel pump ecu went under. Good to know its sealed anyway. Im definitely going to delete the cyclone and get a dual battery snorkel mid pipe to give it half a chance of actually being water tight!
 

Melbzd30

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Thanks for the tip rumpig. Got the ecu and the airbag ecu out. They were both covered in a layer of fine dried mud. Pretty piss poor of nossan not to seal the ecu i reckon. I know its not meant to go swimming. But for a 4x4 and how piss poor the sealing was these things happen. For the sake of a couple dollars of resin. Considering how low they are mounted. Fingers crossed they work a treat after that clean.

Transfer case and gearbox were full of iced coffee flavoured oil haha.
 

Melbzd30

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Done the test run this morning. Running like a champ! Thanks for the help guys. Done a search on the forum about how to reset airbag light. Success as well! Love the forum.

Cant believe how the ecu has no sealing at all. Tempted to pull it back out and pour resin over the board. Thoughts?

Not that im planning on drowning her again. But i am a bit of a donkey haha
 

Rumpig

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The ecu board does get a coat of lacquer on it to prevent oxidation.
There's an atmo pressure sensor in them so they can't be air tight.
 
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Melbzd30

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Ah ok cheers.

Yeah i noticed the lacquer start degrading from all the contact cleaner. Ill leave it be and try avoid the big puddles haha
 

Czechmate

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Mmm a degrading ECU board is not ideal
Likely to cause issues or strange behaviours down the track
The dreaded "Electronic Demons" woooooooooo

You can get Urethane seal coat in a spray can. Its amazing stuff
Spray it on circuit boards, fine wiring etc
I have a vintage Toshiba desktop fan that was tripping the safety switch in my house because the circuit board inside was a bit greasy and brown
Sprayed the board with this gear and viola no worries
Also sprayed the ECU in my 98 mazda bravo because it was playing up. They have capacitors that are known to leak a bit
It fixed the misfiring i was having immediately

Cant recommend this gear enough

https://www.blackwoods.com.au/search/urethane-seal-coat-crc/307064430
 

Melbzd30

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Was all going good. Then started getting the hard starting a few days ago. Tacho going erratic. CEL coming on once started. Can get it to start quicker without throwing the CEL if i use a little throttle while cranking over.

Today i pulled the ecu. Cleaned again and got some clear laquer coat ecu board protector. I tried to get that crc urethane you mentioned but no one stocked it. Gave up and got the laquer from jaycar. Pulled a couple of earths cleaned and out back. Didn't seem to help. Then thought ide give a hit on the trickle charger. was sitting around 12.3V when i plugged it in. Left it on a bulk charge for a few hrs. Got it up over 13.4 before i went out. Was back down to 12.9 after i got home. Cranked over amd stsrted alot easier and no CEL. Ill check again over next few starts.

I know absolutely nothing about the magical pixies that make batteries chooch. Was my battery low? What do these things like to have to crank over.?

Ive read a few threads talking about starter motor and glow plugs being possible causes. Anyone else have some odeas for possible causes?

Cheers guys
 

Boogieboots

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How does it run once started? Mine was cranking quite well but the tachometer was jumping around as it did then the CEL would light up. Once started it ran fine with the engine light on. Occasionally it would start without the light coming on. I changed my starter and it fixed straight up. Turns out the tacho shouldn't move at all until the engine is running (well that is how mine goes now anyway). If it is rough after starting, probably not the starter
 

Melbzd30

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Yeah runs perfect once running.

Ive got it starting without throwing a cel pretty much every time now. Using a little throttle. Im leaning towards starter motor.

A quick look on ebay there is a pretty wide variation in prices. Anyone have luck with the cheaper options or stick to oem replacement?

Are they a servicable item can they be repaired by a specialist or are they throw away?
 

Been a while

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Yeah runs perfect once running.

Ive got it starting without throwing a cel pretty much every time now. Using a little throttle. Im leaning towards starter motor.

A quick look on ebay there is a pretty wide variation in prices. Anyone have luck with the cheaper options or stick to oem replacement?

Are they a servicable item can they be repaired by a specialist or are they throw away?
Howdy man, good to read shes running! Yes you can get a kit for them but they are the same price as change over....
 

Boogieboots

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I got mine from Repco when they had a 20% off for Rac card holders for around 220 I think. I figured for warranty if I get stuck anywhere I should be safe for a replacement
 
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