What size battery for a D22.

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wes570

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It's about time I buy a battery but I don't know what size :confused: I have a d22 with 4 xgt light force spottys ( not hid ), a winch, uhf, a Engle frige ( that is only when I go camping), 4 ac plugs, a rear light. I don't have a duel battery in the so its a crank battery as well. Any suggestions.
 

joffo81

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Century Marine Pro 720 on sale at BCF til end of the month. I just bought 2 for my camper set-up. They are 720 CCA but also have deep cycle capability. Great buy in my opinion as a start battery or deep cycle. Also come with 2 yr warranty. Marine batteries are supposedly built with solid internals to handle wave action and vibration so also great for off-road work.
 

Old.Tony

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Ignore how much stuff you're running off it to start with - address the largest load - the starter, so the most important thing is the CCA of the battery. Yours needs to do 600 or more (it can take 550A to turn the D22 engine over, and you can thank Jim for finding that out). Get something with 700CCA or better.

Now that you know how much starting capacity it will need, you can now start looking for longevity. This is written as "RC" (usually) on the battery and it USUALLY fairly closely equals the amp-hours that the battery can deliver. It doesn't always! On my Optima D31A (900CCA) the RC value means "how many minutes it will deliver 25A for until the battery voltage drops to 10.5V". That's too low for most fridges, it's considered "dead flat". It should never be drained that far.

Most wet cell (non-AGM) batteries shouldn't be discharged below halfway. If you are in the habit of doing that, don't spend a huge amount of coin on the battery.

Obviously the best thing to do is fit a second battery and run those auxiliary items off that - because when you're out in the middle of nowhere, the last thing you want is a fridge that drains your battery so low the engine won't start.

As for things like the winch and driving lights - you should only be using those when the engine is running anyway, and the alternator should be given a chance to recover (some of) the power used before you shut the engine down. Of those items, the winch is the one with the biggest draw - up to around 400A - but with a winch pull at full load for 2 minutes you're only pulling 400 * (2/60) = 13A ... it doesn't take long for the alternator to put that back in.
 

wes570

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i finally bought a battery the other day and put it in to day. this is what i got.
 

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wes570

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i also want to put a dual battery init but not sure what to use for wiring, isolator. any advice i dont wont to pay big buck for it ether.
 

Craig09

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i set mine up with the sidewinder 140amp isolater and 2 B&S cable but thats when i was going under the hood and also planning to be able to jump by linking batterys.changed my mind am going with agm battery to maximize time i can have with fridge on without running the car.
To do this i bought the ctek 250 dual charger for $250 of ebay,it acts as a isolater,charger from alternator and if you want charger from solar with inbuilt regualtor.best of all it will charge the battery to 100% unlike normal isolaters set ups useing the alternator.and it doesnt need massive cables,i run 8 b&s for about 5m to the tray.the only down side is cant link them and start it but thats no biggy as if it is needed which it shouldnt be worst case just take the battery out and swap them to start it
 

wes570

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i set mine up with the sidewinder 140amp isolater and 2 B&S cable but thats when i was going under the hood and also planning to be able to jump by linking batterys.changed my mind am going with agm battery to maximize time i can have with fridge on without running the car.
To do this i bought the ctek 250 dual charger for $250 of ebay,it acts as a isolater,charger from alternator and if you want charger from solar with inbuilt regualtor.best of all it will charge the battery to 100% unlike normal isolaters set ups useing the alternator.and it doesnt need massive cables,i run 8 b&s for about 5m to the tray.the only down side is cant link them and start it but thats no biggy as if it is needed which it shouldnt be worst case just take the battery out and swap them to start it

have you got some photo of your set up mate
 

Craig09

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heres one when i was going with under the hood,also a pic of the same set up with intercooler the battery just isnt sitting in there.i wasnt keen on the pirahna tray for 180 so i did this.80 series airbox was easy job and good peformance gain then it let me put a $24 supercheap tray in there so it could hold a 12" battery.cost about 150 including the new airbox.
theres more detailed pick of how i did it in a dual battery thread id did,cant remember what its called but shouldnt be to hard to find.qiuck run down i ripped the stock airbox out,cut the airbox braket in half leaveing half in there and made new brakets for the 80 series airbox.
 

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Lawry

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ha well to be honest i haven't used it, still in the process of setting it up as the second battery. I got it for 120 second hand... but used for 5 days. looks brand new.
Its 105ah which is well up there in deep cycle stats.. have to wait a see.
the bloke used it as a rescue battery as his optima has bodgey wiring.
it ran his fridge and all his gear for the 5 days back from the NT to NSW.

that'ys all i can help you with.
 

wes570

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iv put it in and i think its good it starts with the first go :redcool: but i havent used it with any gear yet but il let you know how i go. i was told that its a realy good battery but i have to wait and see. i paid $198 brand new.
 

Craig09

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had a mate with one of those and it went fine for him as a casual deep cycle (used once a month camping thats about it).when that one dies and if you have a designated second deep cycle get a centry ultra high peformance overlander 4x4 for $200 as a cranker,i have one my mate has one and our old hunting rig had one.we have by no means ever looked after the hunting one and his isnt far behind in regards to neglect and miss use.they have been flogged and i mean really really put to the test,we cranked his old 60 series for about 10min before she kicked over (ran her dry ooops).they have never failed me and will always be my first choice for a cranker.its got 760cca and 185 RC.
in the mean time though the one you have will do good,especially with its dual purpose ability.
i have recently got a CAT battery and its 1000cca,look foward to seeing how that goes.
 

Michael.Payne

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I have dual crank batteries in my 2009 D22. I got a 120amp deep cycle battery, encased that in the rear tray, and camp fridge, lights, chargers, etc are run from the Deep Cycle battery. I hooked an isolator between the left crank battery to the rear deep cycle battery. Works perfectly, but, make sure you run an earth (black) from the front to the tray. It will work if you earth in the engine bay, but way better if you run the earth to the rear tray. Works a treat now,
 

Horatius

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I have dual crank batteries in my 2009 D22. I got a 120amp deep cycle battery, encased that in the rear tray, and camp fridge, lights, chargers, etc are run from the Deep Cycle battery. I hooked an isolator between the left crank battery to the rear deep cycle battery. Works perfectly, but, make sure you run an earth (black) from the front to the tray. It will work if you earth in the engine bay, but way better if you run the earth to the rear tray. Works a treat now,


I have a 120Ah rear battery as well, but the -ve from this battery bolts to a crossmember under the tray, works fine. Not trying to be contra for the sake of it here, but not sure I'm following you?

I don't have dual crank batteries but I assume (always an iffy thing to do lol) they are in parrallel, which would mean you can think of them as one big battery anyway. Electrically, bolting the -ve to the nearest crossmember or whatever is exactly the same thing as running another cable, apart from the extra voltage drop another run of cable will probably give you (compared to the chassis)?
 
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