VSK vin D40 billowing black smoke

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TeeJay

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Hi All!
Need help with a tough one
Have 2008 D40 VSK vin with following symptoms
• purchased from dealer with what they described as a slightly rough idle
•comes to us lumpy as billowing black smoke
• runs inconsistently, one day runs like a clock second day runs lumpy and cuts out and struggles to start blows smoke clears its throat and Carries on

We have done the following
Replaced SCV vehicle then wouldn’t start so put old one back and starts first kick code strangely disappeared after putting old one back
Replaced fuel filter with a Ryco have now ordered genuine
Done carbon clean on Multiserve
Done diesel purge on Multiserve and ran like a dream on the product - when back on its fuel source blew smoke again
Re learned fuel values and re codes fuel injectors
Replaced pressure relief valve
Changed oil as was smelling and probably full of fuel as fuel return was loose and fuel going in.
We have scanned between codes and codes have cleared
We are at a loss now- vehicle has EGR and dpf deletes completed somewhere else prior to purchase of vehicle. It may have been attempted to repair earlier given injectors were new etc, but just unsure where to from here
 
When the SCV is replaced you have to do a fuel pump reset (pedal dance) that would solve that problem and perhaps a vacuum leak check all vacum hoses and MAP sensor on intercooler or Boost solenoid is cactus.........good luck
 
^ Yep, I'd be checking the vac hoses first. If they're a little loose on their connections they'll be leaking.

If all the vac lines are ok, grab the one that comes across the top of the motor, remove it from the widget on the front of the engine bay (that's the BCS) and put this end of the vac hose directly onto the turbocharger (obviously you have to remove the one that's already there). Drive the car - any better? If so, the BCS is toast. You can either replace it genuine (about $200), replace it aftermarket (eBay, about $30) or replace it with a different device like a Dawes valve or Tillix valve (over $100).
 
Yeh check for Vacuums a bit loose or cracked, etc, try that tip u heard in last reply.

Another very likely culprit is loss of boost, from intercooler loose clamps !! This was causing limp mode for me.

There are Several clamps inc hidden behind grille, on outlet from turbo, all piping all the way around to & from the intercooler, some a bit tricky to get to.
Tighten ALL of it!
Helped me.

Another issue i had is The O-ring on my new Fuel Filter was just slightly not tightened enough & air getting in or out, slight diesel residue!!

I limp moded again after a week or so of perfect driving ..after tightening right up the clamps on all intercooler, all turbo etc pipes.

I thought wtf now.
So i checked that Fuel filter o-ring, saw it slightly not fully tight, smelt diesel on my hand, saw slight residue & so tightened by hand quite a fair few millimetres until it seemed heaps done up much much better
(w out overforcing it & breaking it😜)

After that i pumped up the primer bulb several times til it hardened.

It drove better instantly !!
I still think i may have small slight air leak in a fuel hose, it could be anywhere!! Maybe near the tank, maybe some return. I dont see or smell anything, but maybe somewhere under the car near the tank or somewhere stashed in the many fuel lines in the engine bay might be slightly loose. As i limped the other day just cruising along at 60 not even pushing it, after 1000km freeway kms & primed it & it drove smoother better immediately & been okay for few days since.

Cars drove mostly great now for weeks & no black smoke, great power, great Accel, holds 110-120 up monster freeway km long hills it couldnt before.

I also fitted a catch can, and noticed a fair puddle of black oil in the turbo inlet in front of the impeller,where the crankcase normally blows by oil back to. It would be getting sucked thru the turbo for years.

Well i haven't opened the turbo inlet to look for any puddle since fitting the catch can, but i am fairly sure if i did, there wouldnt likely be any puddle no more.

Some of that could solve your problem & wouldnt hurt to do it all.

Costs almost next to nothing.
Just some time & effort & cheap bits and pieces, catchy cost me $40 on eBay. I also fitted a nice Saas boost guage that displays up to 40psi..
that i had laying around...
To the intercooler boost sensor tee behind the grille, to d/side of intercooler (there's posts here on doing that & youtube tuts),
And i can see my boost all the time reading up to 24 and holding it,
So i know my solenoid is A-okay.
Its a nice touch to see the guage going off constantly while driving too,
reminding you your Garetts going well & saves hooking up scan tools or digital displays unless needed.
 
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