upper control arms

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difflock

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hi everybody, i have a stock 2017 navara dual cab 4x4 sl the np300 model or sometimes refered to as the d23
the question and i keep getting answers if i put new springs on (a lift kit) at around 50mm extra travel do i need to replace my upper control arms as there will not be enough factory adjustment to get my camber correct, some say yes some say only if you go above two inches....what do you members think
 
Not sure but I did get just over 50mm lift on my D40 with Dobbinson HD coils. Manage to get 0 deg. Straight up and down Camber -Just, it's maxed out. However it is a Thai built truck that does have the for and aft adjustments on lower wishbone.

As for the NP 300 I'm not sure. Good way to find out. have the springs installed, then see if they can get correct wheel alignment. If not you up for aftermarket UCA's
 
hi everybody, i have a stock 2017 navara dual cab 4x4 sl the np300 model or sometimes refered to as the d23
the question and i keep getting answers if i put new springs on (a lift kit) at around 50mm extra travel do i need to replace my upper control arms as there will not be enough factory adjustment to get my camber correct, some say yes some say only if you go above two inches....what do you members think
The typical packages for these vehicles generally provides a lift more like 40mm to 45mm. I'd take a guess that's because up to 50mm is legal in most places so it's easier for everyone to stay just below that magic 50mm number.

I understand the front suspension on the NP300 is the same as the previous model D40. When I look at pictures I can't tell the difference.

After installing HD suspension on my D40 ... which lifted it about 43mm ... there was still just enough on the camber adjuster bolts to get a satisfactory alignment.

However you'll find there's a good chance the UCA's will hit the strut towers as mine were doing. It's because the UCA's are pushed further down with the stiffer springing.

To fix the problem I installed 25mm extended upper control arm ball joints to lift the UCA's back to about the horizontal position they sit in with stock suspension. This helps the camber as well. These extended BJ's cost about $70 to $100 a pair and are cheaper and easier to fit than new UCA's.

If it's any help I made a short 6:00 minute video when I did the installation:

 
Thanks Scott great video. When you did the CSR did you have those extended ball joints fitted?
Thanks Tappet .. no the longer BJ's are a new feature.

I installed them last month and tested them on a 60km beach run two weeks ago. It feels much better now the UCA is about horizontal in it's resting position. No more banging on the strut tower either.
 
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thanks scott for taking the effort of recording then uploading that video... i may as play it safe and have the mechanic change the upper control arms...now the debate is alloy or steel
 
for any kiwis watching this, extended ball joints require to be certified and i think some are banned in certain vehicles. there has been a few cases where they have ripped out of the control arm causing the vehicle to crash.
some of the have been installed as part of a "factory" lift kit, so you may not be aware they are even fitted.
 
slightly different question... ok if you get lift your vehicle 50mm plus taller tyres by 25mm giving you that classic 2 + 1 inch rule ok if i only lift my vehicle 40 mm does that mean i can choose higher tyres to keep within that magical i dont require an engineers certificate modification plate etc etc and second part to the question would you compromise on the lift so you have more tyre options
 
slightly different question... ok if you get lift your vehicle 50mm plus taller tyres by 25mm giving you that classic 2 + 1 inch rule ok if i only lift my vehicle 40 mm does that mean i can choose higher tyres to keep within that magical i dont require an engineers certificate modification plate etc etc and second part to the question would you compromise on the lift so you have more tyre options

The rules for raising your vehicle are pretty much same wherever you are ... basically it's the roof that can be up to 50mm higher than standard. Larger diameter tyres are obviously included in that 50mm.

In my case I went for the approximately 40mm lift so I could fit taller tyres.
 
NSW rules are (for without engineering):
c. Modifications to the ride height up to 75mm that incorporate a maximum change in the suspension of 50mm, and/or an increase in the diameter of the wheel and tyre combination of up to 50mm.

From here:
https://www.rms.nsw.gov.au/document...cations-manual-suspension-and-ride-height.pdf
Putting 50mm lift blocks in the back today and bigger tyres. Did the front lift of about 40-45mm last weekend.

From what I read extended leaf spring shackles are not legal, so I went with blocks as the cheap option. If I like it, I’ll go for springs later.
 
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Western Australia uses the national vehicle standard VSB14 Vehicle Standards Bulletin 14 (VSB 14)

So here we're limited to lifting the roof 50mm which includes tyres ... but the tyres can only be up to 50mm bigger diameter than standard (which gives 25mm lift). So here in the West we're restricted to:

1 inch lift and 2 inch bigger diameter tyres (together)

2 inch lift and the same size tyres. This is the maximum legal lift kit height in WA as long as you run the factory size tyre.

Other states like NSW allow 50mm lift plus bigger tyres. So any people from NSW with a 75mm lift coming to WA to drive the Canning Stock Route need to be aware.
 
The rules for raising your vehicle are pretty much same wherever you are ... basically it's the roof that can be up to 50mm higher than standard. Larger diameter tyres are obviously included in that 50mm.

In my case I went for the approximately 40mm lift so I could fit taller tyres.
ok thanks for that, ive had trouble trying to get an answer on this
 

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