Turn indicator issues

[220]

Have a problem with the left turn indicators on my 2012 D40.
Right hand side is working fine left hand side I have nothing. Indicator light on the dash flashes fast as if a globe is blown but none of the turn indicators illuminate. Hazard is similar, normal flashing speed and both showing on the dash working but only the right side indicators actually working.
It has 4 indicator lights per side, led in the bullbar, standard headlight and guard mounted lights and rear led. They were working fine until a week ago nothing has been changed.
I have tested all 4 lights individually and they are all OK, if I run a hot wire directly to one of the lights it illuminates along with the other 3.
Obviously not getting power for some reason but has me stumped, thought it may be a fuse or relay but after looking at all 4 fuse boxes I cant find any marked as indicator or hazard. A quick search on line didnt help as it appears the indicators are controlled by the BCM. Disconnected the battery hoping it might reset something but no joy.
Surely the supply to the indicators must be fused but where is it located and what is it called?

Any suggestions?

 

[Old.Tony]

If you're standing outside the car and you lock the doors with the remote, do the LH indicators work? If yes, it's a possible logic problem in the BCM. If no, check to see if there's a signal coming off pin 47 of the BCM. There should be 3 connectors on the BCM, you want one of the two pins under the locking tab of the long narrow connector. I suspect this will work if the instrument cluster is showing it working, but test it anyway.

The indicators/hazards are controlled by both the BCM and the instrument cluster (according to the manual). In the back of the instrument cluster are two connectors, the long one is the one we're interested in. The second pin from the outside of the meter on the row closest to the locking tab is pin 2, and this should be going positive 12V when the indicators are flashing.

 

[220]

Thanks for the reply, nothing on the LH side when the remote is used.
I am going to go through all the fuse boxes and test each fuse just to make sure it isnt fused and marked as anything else. After that then it will be a matter of checking the BCM.
Not sure if the trailer lights are a separate circuit or part of the indicator circuit, will test it as well.
Would be simple to bridge from them if it is separate for a temp solution.

 

[Old.Tony]

Usually the trailer lights are fed power from the harness providing power to the rear lights. If the trailer lights were working and the LH car lights weren't, then I'd suspect a ground problem for the LH lights. Ground is fed by the BCM, it might be an idea to see if the indicators are getting a valid ground. I don't know if the indicators "flip" the positive and negative like headlights sometimes do, but it wouldn't be difficult to test that. If there's no flip - if the indicators always have the tip of the globe as positive and the surround as negative - testing that the earth is poor is just a matter of connecting the globe's surround to the body (or battery negative). If that solves the problem, there could be a break in the harness somewhere or there's a bad earth for one of the components. If your stereo's earth - which the instrument cluster shares - isn't good, then this could cause all sorts of instrumentation issues. The solution for that is just add an earth from the body (a bolt under the dash) to the frame of the stereo.

It's not an easy one, they're trying to get clever with power delivery to the lights. Rather than just send a positive 12V when the globe has to come on, they send both (probably to ensure that the light is actually working).

 

[[email protected]]

is there any chance that the switch on the steering column is faulty

 

[220]

I guess it is a possibility but given they also arent working with the hazard switch or remote probably not.
Went through all the fuses this morning and found nothing, trailer plug is the same everything working but the left indicator. I think I located the pin on the BCM, pin beside it pulses with the right indicators, the one I think is the left has nothing.
Not sure how to access the dash without pulling the entire thing apart it might be time for a visit to the local auto elec and see what they can find.

 

[Old.Tony]

I'd suggest if the pin on the BCM isn't firing that the BCM has a fault.

Pin 47 (one of the pair in the area below the locking tab) is the LEFT indicator. Pin 48 (one pin out from the locking tab) is the RIGHT indicator. That should help you nail pin 47.

 

[220]

Finally got it into the auto electrician, BCM is the problem, said they can source a new BCM $750 but also something about engine harness and they aren't available so will need to source one from a wrecker. Will get full details when I pick it up but bloody ridiculous that instead of a $10 flasher unit looks like it will be well over $1000 to have a new BCM fitted.

 

[Phunk]

Hopefully the BCM isn't too over-complicated. Some cars these days need a fair bit of work done to swap over a BCM and the extra programming

There is a few on ebay ranging from 50-200

 

[220]

Programming is what is stopping me from having a go myself, I have already looked at availability of second hand options, around $150 seems to be the going price for one with 12 months warranty so will certainly be discussing that option when I go to pick it up later this afternoon.

 

[Phunk]

Programming is what is stopping me from having a go myself, I have already looked at availability of second hand options, around $150 seems to be the going price for one with 12 months warranty so will certainly be discussing that option when I go to pick it up later this afternoon.

I've seen that Nissan has their own software that makes BCM changes quick.. I had a Lexus a while back and was able to get my hands on the Toyota software and bought the cable off ebay. Made life so much easier when making small modifications.

I'll see if I stumble on anything similar for Nissan and loop back here. Surely someone has leaked it somewhere online

 

[[email protected]]

1 tried using a continuity meter to test fuses that were in place, missed the blown fuse as the auto electrician told me that the globe filament for that particular fuse was providing a circuit , so since then i have done a visual on the relevent fuse,

 

[Fogazi]

So I had this exact issue and thought I should revive this thread to potentially save some users a lot of money.

The issue described is indicative (no pun) of a failure of the BCM under the steering wheel.

I figured I know enough about electronics that I could open the BCM and see if there was anything obvious.
Straight away I can see there is an IC right beside the plug that goes to the indicators etc. And I could see the IC had a burn/melted area. I did some continuity testing and low and behold the outputs from the ic connect to the indicator pins 47 etc on the plug. And the burnt side connected to the left.

So I got googling and was lucky enough to find a pic of the bcm online with enough resolution so that I could identify the IC part number. Onto ebay and found some random sellers that had a few here and there in stock. Bought a pack of 3 and got another order from Amazon just to hedge my bets on whether it would ever arrive or not.
BTS840S2 for anyone wondering. $6 each.

They arrived 2 weeks later and whilst I waited I watched numerous YouTube clips of desoldering and resoldering surface mounted devices. Easy enough, just fiddly. And I had all the tools available.

Desoldered the suspect chip off, cleaned up the contacts and soldered the new one in. Tested for any shorts due go my amateurish solder skills, all good.
Point to note, this IC has a large pad underneath that acts as a heatsink/ground. That took some effort to desolder and required me to crack off all the plastic material on the IC to be able to get enough heat into it to pop off. This could he circumvented if I had a heat gun.

Plugged the BCM back in and magic, indicators working perfectly.

$6 and a few tools saved a lot of money.

 

[Scott52]

These are the sort of DIY repairs I love to do because it makes me feel like I'm beating the system. I did a similar repair to the glow plug controller on my Mercedes car because I was quoted a small fortune for a new one. I decided to open it up first before I paid the Mercedes tax. I discovered there was fusible link on the PCB that had failed. Five minutes with the soldering and 20mm of 8A fuse wire had it working perfectly and it's still going today!

If I have this problem with the indicators on my D40 I'd give this a go for sure.

For information the BCM can be swapped out and you can get them fairly cheaply from the wreckers. Trouble is the BCM, ECU, Key and IMMO are linked and the car won't start if one is changed ... so you need a Locksmith to recode the system.

I bought an Autel MaxiAP200 because you can do your own keys and IMMO. You can code injectors to. They only cost about $100. I actually changed my ECU and BCM for ones from a dual cab and used the AP200 to recode the keys/IMMO to the replacements so know it works.

https://www.catch.com.au/product/au...SM8TOZOkG9c87Bk5r7zIdRlgNs_whS6hoCfOwQAvD_BwE

 

[Fogazi]

These are the sort of DIY repairs I love to do because it makes me feel like I'm beating the system. I did a similar repair to the glow plug controller on my Mercedes car because I was quoted a small fortune for a new one. I decided to open it up first before I paid the Mercedes tax. I discovered there was fusible link on the PCB that had failed. Five minutes with the soldering and 20mm of 8A fuse wire had it working perfectly and it's still going today!

If I have this problem with the indicators on my D40 I'd give this a go for sure.

For information the BCM can be swapped out and you can get them fairly cheaply from the wreckers. Trouble is the BCM, ECU, Key and IMMO are linked and the car won't start if one is changed ... so you need a Locksmith to recode the system.

I bought an Autel MaxiAP200 because you can do your own keys and IMMO. You can code injectors to. They only cost about $100. I actually changed my ECU and BCM for ones from a dual cab and used the AP200 to recode the keys/IMMO to the replacements so know it works.

https://www.catch.com.au/product/au...SM8TOZOkG9c87Bk5r7zIdRlgNs_whS6hoCfOwQAvD_BwE

Oh nice, good information. Was looking into one from wreckers if this didn't work but was stumped on how to re code it.

 

[Old.Tony]

Excellent stuff.

I tried similar with my airbag diagnostic unit but couldn't find a suitable replacement capacitor so I bought a whole unit from a wrecker.