Time to bite the bullet on real main seal / new clutch . . .

[richNAV]

Ok so just confirmed my oil leak is the real main seal (pretty likely all along from reading posts on here) . . .

So going to get all the parts together I need, assuming its just the real main seal and new clutch (since the truck has 300km's)?

What is the best value replacement clutch or where could I source a cheap genuine Nissan clutch? I don't need anything heavy duty.

And just in case I wimp out of fitting it myself anyone had one fitted at a garage in Melbourne they'd recommend?

I'll prob order the seal from Navarapart

 

[Been a while]

Where are you? I have the gearbox cradle for the trolley jack if you need it! They're not expensive anyway if you want to buy one for your garage..

Big job if you've never done one before, garage will want at "least" a days labour plus parts..$800+ plus clutch, rear seal etc

Have you got a shed with a nice flat concrete surface? Then go for it! You'll need x4 1t stands too! Have you got a body lift? Makes it easier to get to the top gear bag bolts..
Try part importers Partsouq and Amayama for parts.. Buy the manual and get to reading it and don't forget the spigot bush/bearing! Pre soak that baby!

If you're thinking lift kits and replacing torsion bars now the time you have to drop them to get the box out! Good luck

 

[richNAV]

Thanks a lot for the reply Bro . . .

I’m nearby Seymour in Central Victoria . . . I could pull the truck into the Shed with concrete surface, got two 3T stands and one Trolley Jack, no lift of any kind. What needs to happen with the spigot bush/bearing? Do I need a bearing puller?

Nah not thinking lift kit as I don’t use it 4WD’ing, most if anything I’d replace the front shockers for OEM or similar.

 

[Been a while]

Maryborough a.t.m! Yell out if you need it.. you don't really need a lift, as long as the concrete floor is good you can do it with stands and jacks..

Pre soak the spigot! They're a brass compound and are porous, some what! Sit it in oil for a few days. Well, that's what I do, or you can use a grease.. ask round and see what others use..

Removal is simple, hook on the slugger bar or pack it with grease and use a punch... utube spigot bush removal, you'll love the bread trick... wet paper will work too..

If you need tools and hands yell out!

 

[Been a while]

I've got more stands if you need...

 

[Cowboy550]

Love the bread trick

 

[Horatius]

Clutch and rear main aren't really difficult, though you'll also have to drop the sump to do the rear main properly. Which also means removing the front diff/cross members. It would also be worth taking the flywheel off for a quick machining, brake workshops will usually do it for you.

The part that is difficult is removing and reinstalling the gearbox, especially if you're going to be laying underneath it and doing it that way. Have removed gearboxes out of a few utes that way over the years, but nav is the a heavy awkward pain in the arse to put it mildly.

Though don't let that put you off, if your not an old crock it might not seem as difficult lol.

 

[Horatius]

ps. to drop the sump you'll also probably have to drop one side (passenger) of the steering arm also.. You might be able to get it out without doing this, but getting it back on and lining it up with goop on it won't be easy.

None of this is really difficult...once the gearbox/transfer is out of course. Then it's matter of putting it back in. Though I have heard people say that's not that difficult. Guess everyone has their own version of what is/isn't difficult.

 

[Been a while]

Love the bread trick

Lol it's a classic huh,,, if it works!

 

[Been a while]

Clutch and rear main aren't really difficult, though you'll also have to drop the sump to do the rear main properly. Which also means removing the front diff/cross members. It would also be worth taking the flywheel off for a quick machining, brake workshops will usually do it for you.

The part that is difficult is removing and reinstalling the gearbox, especially if you're going to be laying underneath it and doing it that way. Have removed gearboxes out of a few utes that way over the years, but nav is the a heavy awkward pain in the arse to put it mildly.

Though don't let that put you off, if your not an old crock it might not seem as difficult lol.

That's where that cradle comes in handy,,,, once you work out where centre of mass lays... hint, it's no where near centre but you're right, they can be a bitch and, at other times I've thought I've missed something they've gone in that easy...

 

[Tappet]

Dunno about repairer in Melbourne, I'm a long way from there but If don't have a strong desire, experience to do it yourself and you've got the cash, get it done. I use to do all repairs myself and it is satisfying when all goes right but when it doesn't and your not in a proper workshop environment it's grief personified. I still do most consumables like belts. All fluid changes, brake pads... anything else forget it.

 

[Been a while]

Dunno about repairer in Melbourne, I'm a long way from there but If don't have a strong desire, experience to do it yourself and you've got the cash, get it done. I use to do all repairs myself and it is satisfying when all goes right but when it doesn't and your not in a proper workshop environment it's grief personified. I still do most consumables like belts. All fluid changes, brake pads... anything else forget it.

Yes, it does make that squeeling spigot bush an easier fix, "when you can take it back to another"... lol, I had two play up back to back when I first tried my works, this is years ago working on old Holden 6's, stinking things lol .

And that reminds me, if you do take it in, ask what their workshop warranties and guarantee's are exactly... get it in writing, even if they have to hand write it on the quote! And make sure it an itemised one, that way you can check their parts list and pricing!
It will be interesting to read what quotes you get if you go that way, keep us posted ..

There are on site mechanics that can help you if you get stuck too, shite, pay me a days wage and I'll come help you!
Have a good read of the manual, its not that hard-it's just a prick of a job.. To remove one thing on Navaras you have to remove two other parts, that sort of shite , and you need Asian hands!
You don't have a body lift do you! You better make friends with an Asian real quick

The manual does walk you through it step by step too,,tools parts etc even tells you if it's a major or minor job, I kid you not ..

 

[richNAV]

Ha nice I've got a couple of friends with tools willing to help so no excuses really! Although thought I'd get a couple of quotes for good measure and see what everyone's paying for clutches. Best I've seen so far is Exedy Clutch NSK-7373 for 470 bucks online and the Genuine Rear Main Seal for 100 from Navarapart.

I guess I've got a lot of other jobs on at the Farm and this is my least favorite but I'm sure it would be good learning! So is that right @Horatius the sump has to come off as well . . . dam that does make it a job and a half . . .

@Been a while aren't you all the way up in QLD? I'm down in Central Vic . . .

 

[Been a while]

No mate, stuck in prison in Vic atm, Maryborough and surrounding gold fields. . Camping. .

Check on that rear main, I'm sure the sump can stay on.. not sure as i took mine off to reseal it at the same time. .

Be careful with sump removal... there's a tool you can make or buy to help remove the sump if needed .. it's listed in the tool section of the manual and shows a picture..
And the other thing is,,, MAKE SURE YOU BUY THE SUMP ADHESIVE FOR DIESELS. Anything else will fail... Make sure its for diesels. .. lock tight make one in a pressurised despenser...

 

[Horatius]

Ha nice I've got a couple of friends with tools willing to help so no excuses really! Although thought I'd get a couple of quotes for good measure and see what everyone's paying for clutches. Best I've seen so far is Exedy Clutch NSK-7373 for 470 bucks online and the Genuine Rear Main Seal for 100 from Navarapart.

I guess I've got a lot of other jobs on at the Farm and this is my least favorite but I'm sure it would be good learning! So is that right @Horatius the sump has to come off as well . . . dam that does make it a job and a half . . .

@Been a while aren't you all the way up in QLD? I'm down in Central Vic . . .

The rear main will come out without dropping the sump. But to do it properly (ie. so that it won't leak) the sump has to come off. You'll have to break the seal between sump and rear main to get it off anyway, so it's worth taking the sump off and resealing the whole lot in one go. Rather than replace one little area (that would probably leak).

If you've got a couple of mates to help, it might not be that difficult.

 

[Horatius]

^ You'll get what I'm saying when you get to that part, but I think the sump bolts up the the bottom of the rear main. So you'll have to break the seal with sump there to get it off. You could try sealing the join up and see how it goes. But from my experience with sumps, that's a waste of time and you'll probably be dropping the sump to repair it later anyway. It could also be my lack of ability of course lol.

It's like trying to repair a leaky area on a sump, not worthwhile on a IMO. Take it off and do the whole thing again. That's the logic.

 

[Been a while]

^ You'll get what I'm saying when you get to that part, but I think the sump bolts up the the bottom of the rear main. So you'll have to break the seal with sump there to get it off. You could try sealing the join up and see how it goes. But from my experience with sumps, that's a waste of time and you'll probably be dropping the sump to repair it later anyway. It could also be my lack of ability of course lol.

It's like trying to repair a leaky area on a sump, not worthwhile on a IMO. Take it off and do the whole thing again. That's the logic.

True. .. you're there so do it properly eh. . Yup, with you on that.


Looking at my weeping front diff.. The stinking thing, this will be twice now, three if you include the diff lock fit up time ..

 

[richNAV]

Update folks.

So I got an Exedy Clutch and Genuine Rear Main seal online but chickened out on the fitting!

I took it to PMA in Melbourne a supposed Nissan Specialist in Melbourne although I didn’t see many Nissan’s there. Pretty good service and they quoted me a grand for the job. Plus they assured me they could do a nice neat job without dropping the sump.

Driving it the last few days and I’ve noticed the oil leak is just as bad as it was before. Another mechanic who looked at it before also suggested the Dipstick O-ring rubber? Anyone else had a leak from there? I assume he meant an O-ring down below around the housing and not the dipstick itself as I can’t see any leaks higher up. Gonna jack it up this weekend and have another look with the degreaser and hose.

 

[Horatius]

There is an o ring on the dipstick tube that seals where it goes into the block. If you undo the bolt that braces the dipstick tube to the motor you can take it out and have a look. Not uncommon for them to weep a little as they age, would be unusual (but not impossible) for them to get a leak from there though. Would probably cost about 50 cents to replace.

 

[richNAV]

There is an o ring on the dipstick tube that seals where it goes into the block. If you undo the bolt that braces the dipstick tube to the motor you can take it out and have a look. Not uncommon for them to weep a little as they age, would be unusual (but not impossible) for them to get a leak from there though. Would probably cost about 50 cents to replace.

Hey Bro I pulled it out and couldn’t see an O-ring rubber in sight…I’d already ordered one so I drop it in the hole as it wasn’t a fit for round the tube itself

In other news I just found the source of the main leak! Dam injector seals staring me in the face all this time!!! Shame I just spent 2k on the clutch and rear main

Any advice on the injector seals?