Suspension kit recommendations

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Hi all!

New forum member here.
I have owned a Nissan D23 for a little over 4 years now and it still runs and sounds like it should.

Probably an old topic by now.
Looking into upgrading my suspension, I´m looking into installing OME suspension kit that should put me around 50mm (2").

The debate is as follows: some friends recommend also changing the upper control arms, some say there´s no need. All NP300 owners.
I would like to hear the forum´s opinion on this one...

is it worth the extra money?
is it unsafe not to do so?
are there other considerations to it?
 

Tappet

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G'day,
Welcome to the forum. Yes it is an old topic that has not quite been done to death but very close to it. A lot will depend on your personal requirements, like do you go off road much, what sort of load do you normally carry, are you going to fit it yourself...?

Old Man Emu are good and there is heaps of other good gear available as well. Superior engineering and Fulcrums have some good packages to. http://www.superiorengineering.com.au/product_info.php?products_id=3584 Fulcrum Suspensions | Australia's #1 Suspension Specialist

There can be some issues with a lift. The primary one being you will not get the wheel alignment within spec. Not sure on the NP300 but if it has the eccentric adjusters on leading and trailing edge of the lower wishbone you will probably have enough adjustment to get it Camber within spec without compromising Castor -just.

The other issue is the down travel. With a lift it give you less clearance between the wishbone and top of the coil bucket. On Max down travel you can have contact. This is where aftermarket upper control arm/wishbone is a good idea. You probably don't need them but good ones are safe. The better ones have the same folded press forged stye of the original.

With most kits you wont get the 50mm. I did with mine (D40) bit over actually but It has a fairly stiff spring on the front. Thought it would be a harsh ride but as it turned out, it's nice. Sort of just in spec. 0 deg one side and just less than 1/2 degree positive the other side but it is Maxed out. No wishbone coil bucket contact.

Check out the search thingy here. There is a lot of historical info. Although I will say the search is less than perfect. More to do with what the thread topics start with, more than the forum itself.

Good luck with it.
 
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Off roading would be mostly on weekends, and on places I already go to as a stock unit (beach and coutry side mainly).
Will most likely be inclined to new routes with a higher car and better tires...

Also heard about extended ball joints instead of replacing the entire control arm, guess this is also an option, and less expensive than replacing the entire UCA.

My conclusion is that to play it safe and change the UCA. Might as well since I´m already making the investment?
 

Tappet

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Perhaps get the lift done and see how it goes. You could always have UCA's fitted later. On mine they don't hit. However I think the shock is bottoming out. Probably not doing it a lot of good but then again would be rarely in a situation where it would do so. Personally I wouldn't use extended ball joints. They may be ok, just don't like the concept of it.
 

LiftmyRide

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Mine is 2008 stx yd25 spain automatic. I put spacer 25mm thick on the front and give me 50mm lift. I did not replace the upper arm and it looks it pushes the wheel out a bit( negative camber?).
 

Tappet

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and it looks it pushes the wheel out a bit( negative camber?).
I imagine you mean the top of the wheel is leaning out. That is positive camber and only a matter of time (probably a short one) it starts wearing the tread down on the outside of the tyre.

Get a wheel alignment as soon as you can.
 

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