Started stalling issue d40

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Brettprice2

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Hi everyone, have an issue with my d40
I have read so many threads with the same/similar issue but they dont have a resolution.

I did both timing chains about 6-7 weeks ago.
Last week it started stalling when first started but was insignificant, gradually got worse and harder to start but always ran fine for most of the day once it was going.

changed fuel filter
Changed SCV
changed crank sensor
Changed cam sensor
Blocked eg

getting codes varying between p0340 and p0016

pulled the cover off and re done the top timing to make sure it was ok.

could it really be possible the timings out after 6-7 weeks? What could cause that?
Was running beautifully after the chains were done for 4-5 weeks.
 
Those two codes are related, to the camshaft (0340) and crankshaft (0026). However, it's been my experience that - usually - multiple erratic and unexplainable faults usually trace back to a poor electrical connection.

Step 1 - almost always - clean the battery terminals. Make sure there's good metal surface to face the clamps, and the clamps are clean, then re-fit and spray the battery sealer on to protect it. I'd also clean the alternator main wire and the ground cable on the engine block, but you should also look very closely at the fusible links in the battery positive clamp holder. There have been a couple of instances where the main fusible link has cracked resulting in intermittent issues. Use a multimeter to check the resistance across each fusible link, you should see zero ohms on each of them.

There might be issues with the harness. We've had some people experience problems after pressure-washing a dirty engine bay, and it's usually because some dirt that was on the outside of the connector was pushed into the connector and wedges in between the contacts (hard to do, but not impossible). The fix is relatively easy (and if you're doing it yourself, it's free) - just unplug and replug things.

While you're poking about in there, check the harness for crush or tear damage. Look at the fan belt and make sure it hasn't lost any material, we had a fan belt lose one of the rib sections and the small section that came off whipped itself through one of the aircon hoses which then killed our aircon really quickly as the gas escaped.
 
Still no luck. Think I’m going to have to pull it apart again and double check the bottom chain and everything. 😩
 
It doesn’t stall if I keep the revs up, as soon as I let them idle it stops, doesn’t splutter, just abruptly stops. It runs ok once I actually get it going but always the only codes are cam and crank related
 
So if I unplug the cam sensor it starts and idles fine. So it can’t be a fuel issue right?

But the timing chain was done 6 weeks ago and ran fine for at least 4-4.5 weeks
 
So if I unplug the cam sensor it starts and idles fine. So it can’t be a fuel issue right?

But the timing chain was done 6 weeks ago and ran fine for at least 4-4.5 weeks

That's weird! I would have thought it wouldn't start with an unplugged camshaft angle sensor. I've had a car with a faulty connector to the cam sensor & as it was a nightmare. I'd be just driving along & the engine would cut out in the traffic. Took forever to workout what the problem was (loose pin in the connector)

Re the stalling when not revving hard - you may have a cut/nick/tear somewhere in the air inlet side of things? Maybe a vacuum hose or something similar has fallen off of the inlet manifold?
 
14yr old
Yeh I’ve replaced a few but why would unplugging cam and crank sensors be affected by vacuum?
 
Is it possible to remove the camshaft sensor and examine it, looking for metal shavings stuck to it? Usually this is an issue with the crankshaft sensor - where small magnetic pieces interfere with the sensor's operation.
 
Ok… so this morning I changed the top timing chain and tensioner and all is good.

no idea why the chain only lasted a little while but we’ll see what happens with this chain.

thanks everyone!
 
There have been some reports of the tensioner not functioning properly (sticking, not keeping the chain tight) causing the chain to stretch or even break teeth on the sprockets. There's a possibility that an oil galley blockage could be involved - I would recomment the use of an oil flush additive (with a high detergent component) before changing the engine oil. Did you notice any clumping around the tensioner? How free is the movement of the tensioner?
 
I changed oil and filter and made sure the feed to tensioner wasn’t blocked.
Now it all looks good and has less travel than before. And I checked all the sprockets.
Thanks
 

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