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sporadic blinker ticker and sometimes no dash lights

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gonguana

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Hello Everyone,
I have an electrical gremlin,
I am seeing sporadic internal blinker lights on the dash. they tick along nice a few times then the ticker and internal light on the dash goes quicker for a second or slower, stalls and goes again. it is fairly random. I have also seen my indicators not work at all. The other day i had this blackout issue and stopped at a set of light. My driving lights were turned off on the switch inside but i could see in the reflection from the car infront of me that the driving lights were on. At the same time i tried to see if the blinkers would work and nothing. If i switch the key off and then start the car again everything goes back to normal for a while.
I have checked, Cleaned all the fuses/relays in both fuse boxes. Replaced the mail earth as i had an issue with the car completly died on my while in motion. I thought i fixed this by replacing the main earth last time. As this has only just started comming back and nowhere near the severity that it was originally. Cloud thie blinker issue be the dash cluster? ANY help would be amazing. Thanks so much guys.
 

Old.Tony

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The instrument cluster shouldn't be responsible for the indicators (or the driving lights). It is responsible for the display of the status. The Body Control Module is responsible for the flashing and for the high beam control. I do think you might have two separate issues here.

If your indicator bulbs on the corners of the car work when the instrument cluster doesn't show them as working, then I'd suggest attaching another earth to the stereo in the middle of the dash (just pick a bolt underneath the dash that holds the dash in place and attach a wire from that bolt to the mounting bolt of the stereo). The D40s from at least 2008 through to 2011 (and likely more) share an earth between the instrument cluster and the stereo - not the best form! If none of the indicators work then it's obviously an issue elsewhere, and I'd wonder if that was either in wiring loom damage in the engine bay (particularly around the battery where removing the battery can jag wires) or a problem in the indicator stalk itself.

As for the driving lights, it's possible that the relay is faulty. Driving lights are usually powered through a separate relay to the manufacturer-supplied relays. You'll find a blue wire coming from the right hand headlight is the normal source of power, follow this to the relay.
 

gonguana

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The instrument cluster shouldn't be responsible for the indicators (or the driving lights). It is responsible for the display of the status. The Body Control Module is responsible for the flashing and for the high beam control. I do think you might have two separate issues here.

If your indicator bulbs on the corners of the car work when the instrument cluster doesn't show them as working, then I'd suggest attaching another earth to the stereo in the middle of the dash (just pick a bolt underneath the dash that holds the dash in place and attach a wire from that bolt to the mounting bolt of the stereo). The D40s from at least 2008 through to 2011 (and likely more) share an earth between the instrument cluster and the stereo - not the best form! If none of the indicators work then it's obviously an issue elsewhere, and I'd wonder if that was either in wiring loom damage in the engine bay (particularly around the battery where removing the battery can jag wires) or a problem in the indicator stalk itself.

As for the driving lights, it's possible that the relay is faulty. Driving lights are usually powered through a separate relay to the manufacturer-supplied relays. You'll find a blue wire coming from the right hand headlight is the normal source of power, follow this to the relay.
Thanks for the reply Tony,
The only time the headlights were on by them selves was when the dash was dead. All other times they seem fine. I have already done the Extra Earth in the dash last time this happened. Last time i put this down to a bad main earth and replaced the main earth lead from the battery to chasie and Motor. Now my gremlin is back again.
 

Old.Tony

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There is a chance that the connections previously made are in need of "refreshing", meaning a quick retightening or even a clean, depending on the state of the metallic surfaces. I had a fuse on my bike that looked absolutely perfect, tested good for continuity with success, but the actual face of the fuse had a small amount of oxidisation making the connection fail. Removal and reinsertion of the fuse had worked but I now have the same problem again (no power to my intercom, my top box or the fridge), so I'm going to change fuse brand in the hope that the metal used in the new fuse doesn't oxidise as easily.
 

gonguana

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Think i fixed it!. So the Earth in to D40 2010 ST is low on the motor. It is actually viewable from the Driver side wheel arch. I have done a few river crossings with the vehicle and i can see this is not a good spot for the Main Earth. So i have moved it to the Drip stick Mounting bolt. Fixed the Issue Straight away. Just be sure i created a second Main Earth to the Motor cover Mounting Bracket and direct to the Battery. Had Hazards on for 30 minutes did not fault once. Thanks for the Tips Tony.
 

Monsta

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In addition to cleaning the mating surfaces of any electrical connections, if they are at all subject to corrosion it is wise to use a corrosion inhibitor. I use Tef-Gel which is a sticky goo that is insoluble in water (cleanup with turps or white spirits) and non-drying. I get it from Whitworths ship chandlers. It does not inhibit the conductivity of the connection but permanently excludes moisture and corrosion. I have used it in all electrical connections in my boat, an extreme corrosive environment, and in 30+ years I have had zero failures through corrosion. I also use a copper-rich conductive paste called Kopr-Shield made in USA by Thomas & Betts (which I bought online from USA).
 

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