Youre not wrong about that mate. But let's be honest it pretty much is. No cup holders, no electric windows. Could pretty much be a 79 seriesHaven't got a 2.5 but still that's not too bad I wouldn't think. With a zd30 I get between 9.5-11 litres/per hundred kilometres depending on load and driving conditions. So that's about 680-780 kms per tank. Though I drive like an old man too.
The best power mod I could think of would be to drive it to a Toyota dealer and change it for a V8 landcruiser lol.
With the extra weight and the larger tyres you are going to struggle to get fuel economy down.
Consider the wheel as a round lever, as long as the distance from the centre of the axle to the road. The axle tries to turn the lever to push the car forward, but the weight of the vehicle (and the incline you might be on) work directly against this and the longer that lever, the more these have an impact.
It's part of the reason why I went back to standard sized tyres.
Another issue that might be in the mix - larger tyres will cause your odometer to under-read. Your wheel diameter has increased by 40.5mm, and the rolling circumference 127mm larger than standard. That should introduce an error of about 5% - so for every 100km you think you've travelled, you've done 105.
Cleaning your intercooler might help - easy to do, I've done mine a few times and all up takes about an hour. Undo the grille, remove it. Undo the hose clamps on each side of the intercooler, undo the mounting bolts, remove the intercooler. Cup one hand on one opening and pour petrol in the other. Now, turn the intercooler over, allowing the fuel to run down, and remove the hand that's going up (you'll feel the pressure building up). Turn it over a few times like this, then pour out the contents. Repeat until you start seeing normal petrol colour.
Have you blocked the EGR? The valve might be a little aged now, and allowing more exhaust gas in than is needed, resulting in more fuel being used to develop the same power.
the older D22's did that, but with all modern cars the speedo connects via cambuss and gets fed the actual data.The speedo takes a voltage from the ECU that varies according to speed and deflects the needle (electromagnet in a magnetic field with a spring to provide resistance) to an approximation of the speed.
That's interesting. I run the same size tyres on my 2013 Thai RX and the speedo is out by 10% across the range. I had hoped the ODBII speed would be a bit more accurate but that's out by 11% across the range. I use a GPS head-up speedo for now, at least until I can find an ODBII speedo that allows for enough correction, at an acceptable price.It is an auto 2010 ST D40 (Thai) dual cab carrying a decent load of kit (incl a 70L auxiliary tank) - see image below - and running 265 x 75 x R16 tyres.
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I have found that my speedo actually reads correct - what ever the speedo reads is confirmed by the GPS in my dsahcam, my tablet and my mobile phone
the older D22's did that, but with all modern cars the speedo connects via cambuss and gets fed the actual data.
the speedo is programmed to give an incorrect read out.
i understand that this can be changed on some cars so they read correctly. also note that some cars are accurate at low speeds but inaccurate at high speeds. ie they don't do a % error like they used to.
this is partly due to making sure people don't go over speed limits (and then blame the manufacture) but also it makes people drive slower at highway speeds which saves them fuel. as fuel economy is such a big deal these days its a common tactic to make the car look like its better than it really is.
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