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Flying Blind

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Jun 14, 2021
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Location
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First up a bit of info/history.

2004 D22 Navara, ZD30 DDT, 350k km .

Doing oil change, noticed oil on the turbo, pulled it out to clean/inspect found a 1mm chunk out of a inlet vane.

Replaced turbo (CT Turbo), added catch can. While waiting for parts started checking elsewhere.

Replaced radiator, hoses.

Oil weeping from glow plug seals, injector line seals and rocker cover gasket. All replaced.

Removed Throttle body, inlet manifold and EGR for cleaning.

Blocked EGR pipe, removed swirl butterfly, replaced the vacuum hoses to standard config. ( Figured if the butterfly is gone, it won't make any difference )

Replaced fuel filter and filter hoses.

New serpentine belt, tensioner starting to show wear but I'll get back to that.

All done with no manual. hence the user name.

Now the bl...y thing won't start.

Had probs bleeding air from fuel line from tank, may well still be air in there somewhere despite 35 litres being pumped through.

Cracked No 1 and 4 injector lines and hand pumped until bubbles stopped.

Engines turns over easily, almost fires and then seems to lose fuel supply. Lift pump seems to work, pumps up to hard in about 10 pumps.

No check engine light showing, ECUTalk can't read errors ( assume there is none ).

I'm at a loss as to what's next, any suggestions?
20210620_123714.jpg
 
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loosen the injector nut again and then crank untill fuel sprays out. tighten and try starting.
also pays to have foot to the floor.

btw which butterfly did you remove?
you still need the main butterfly as that helps with engine shut off. thats why you change the hoses around, thats disables the egr side of it while allowing the shutoff function to still work.
 
loosen the injector nut again and then crank untill fuel sprays out. tighten and try starting.
also pays to have foot to the floor.

btw which butterfly did you remove?
you still need the main butterfly as that helps with engine shut off. thats why you change the hoses around, thats disables the egr side of it while allowing the shutoff function to still work.
The swirl butterfly, the one with the actuator at the rear of the throttle body
 
watching this one, I have a similar scenario on mine
I replaced the oil seals on the injectors, and also egr blank fitted, easy enough job but putting it back together I had the misfortune of arking the positive terminal on the battery to the motor. The ignition was on for the radio but not start position.
I believe i have enough fuel coming from injector lines during bleeding, turns over like it used to but no start.
 
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watching this one, I have a similar scenario on mine
I replaced the oil seals on the injectors, and also egr blank fitted, easy enough job but putting it back together I had the misfortune of arking the positive terminal on the battery to the motor. The ignition was on for the radio but not start position.
I believe i have enough fuel coming from injector lines during bleeding, turns over like it used to but no start.
As has been stated in other threads, the priming of the injector pump can be a time consuming process. I spent a heap of time priming, turning over, priming, rinse and repeat on to find a couple of pin holes on the fuel inlet hose. I suppose that's what you get when the hoses reach 15 years.
Currently in the process of replacing all the flexible hoses in the engine bay when I get time on the weekends.
As for the arcing, if it was just a fleeting spark and not being left on for ages I very much doubt anything will have been damaged.
 
i use it sparingly , i have a couple of in indirect inj engines , will lock the engine from turning if you swirt to many times . will shine up the cylinders, which is not a good thing
 
Poor mans aerostart works well, slop some petrol on a rag and hold it over the air intake while cranking. Never tried it on a modern common rail motor, but can't see why it wouldn't still work.
 
Since we are talking bush remedies, installing an inline fuel pump at the tank or firewall before the fuel filter will help bleeding pump. Can be hooked up to a power source controlled by ignition, or wired thru an in cabin switch. Twenty dollars and soooo useful. And I am a fan of aero start when used with care
 
i used to start an old diesel fergy with rag , i thing it was done this way because it was indirect fuel injection,(dont know if the original ether was stronger than the one you buy in a can) less chance of locking the motor,as a point of interest , one iced up morning, glow plugs not working no aerostart ,i got a diesel motor started by removing the inlet air pipe and light some twisted up news paper socked with tiny bit of petrol , sucked in warm air , it did have winter mix,
 
Ok, an update.

Finally got back to this thing.

The lift pump was leaking, replaced with genuine.

All the cranking and charging killed the 4 year old battery, replaced it with a 810CCA unit, still couldn't get it to fire, it would kick but not catch.

In desperation got the RAA out, plugged in the computer, cranked the engine and it sounded like a hydraulic lock. Checked the error codes and Crank Angle Sensor showed faulty. Cleared the code tried again, no error code. Turned over to live data and the CAS is dead as a dodo.

I'll pick one up this week, but the RAA guy (who as it turns out is ex Nissan) reckons it should fire straight away.

Here's hoping
 

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