Of Meetings And Trips

[joe2006]

The charger is a 25 amp unit and had been operating a couple of days before it decided to apparently, just keep on going. I don't want to throw away 500 or so bucks on a new one if it's ok but also don't want to ruin 2 new deep cycle batteries or know who can test these things? Then again, a lot of the new chargers are lithium compatible if I want to go down that path later.

There is a master switch in the van which has tricked me when someone has inadvertently turned it off. That might be a good place to start and then check each of the fuses as you have suggested. The pumps are switched off most of the time. The fridge is a 12v compressor unit with a 240v power supply. Apparently the 240 power supply is prone to failure. Mine ticks like a time bomb but because the fridge automatically switches between 12 and 240 volts, I don't know whether mine has failed. That 240 volt supply is another thing that I better check or get rid of all together.

Our previous van had the Dometic 8300 awning and the current van (the one you saw) has the 8500. The 8500 has the much better latching mechanism and thicker vinyl etc, so I assume that;s what you now have? That said, it won't be too long before I will have to replace the vinyl on ours. A $15k repair bill would hurt. Hopefully it was only an excess on your part. Some use velcro straps to secure the arms. I am not sure whether that is as an added precaution or whether they have the style of awnings that use those dodgy plastic clips to secure the arms?

I still have my Chev powered Volvo although now thinking it needs to go because there are too many registrations to pay. The Volvo club of which I am a member, had a national get together in Mudgee, which like all the other events, we didn't attend. That planted the Mudgee seed and how we finally ended up there. We found it a really pleasant place and somewhere to return.

Yes time does fly. The little guy is heading to high school while our daughter has just finished high school and is taking a gap year. Like ours were, your sojourns will be dictated to by school holidays. We are not out off the woods just yet either. She is due to start a job but has no licence and with just short of 3 hours driving on her L's, that's not going to change soon. Also with no public transport where we live and none too keen on my idea of riding the likes of a Vespa, guess who will have taxi duties?

It would be good to accidentally meet "on the road". Like to check out those suspension changes as well. We have our annual pilgrimage to a site in Tumut booked just after the main days of Easter. The plan is to head off before Easter somewhere, spend the main days of Easter at Coolamon where it's nice and quiet before heading to Tumut. That and any of our other journeys for a while are contingent on the requirements of the daughter's job and transport.

 

[Old.Tony]

Sorry, been away, small trip into hospital (no, not Covid) but I'm back again.

Easter time is usually Bathurst time for us, the Bathurst 6 Hour is on and it's a nice event to work at because while it's still all serious with regs and stuff, it's more relaxed than a Supercars event where the Supercars guys will come and tell me to stand aside so they can release cars for the Top Ten shootout, for instance.

I had wanted to make my way to Jindabyne this March for a meetup with a bunch of other riders, but I've got other committments now and can't make it. It's not a bad ride down there when it's not winter - I went to the 50th Anniversary Winter Rally on the Queen's Birthday long weekend in June 2019 and we were really lucky that there was no snow between Tumut and Yarrangobilly. I was told that about 500m further on towards Cooma there was snow on the roadsides. I've ridden in snow before (CB900, half the weight of my current GL1500) but it's not pleasant, and I can't imagine it would be made any easier with the trailer behind! Pic below of us stopped at Gundagai ... they haven't repeated the rally since because of Covid.

This pesky batpox has turned the world on its head, we had several opportunities to go touring and had to sit at home because of various lockdowns. We even cancelled (and got a refund) our Spirit of Tasmania tickets because we were not going to blow 4 weeks of a 9 week holiday sitting in quarantine (at the time, it was a 14 day quarantine).

 

[joe2006]

Hmm, hospital. Hope all is well.

Despite having an old smokey quad bike (YFM350) and an even older 70's vintage 2 stroke (Yamaha AG100), I know nothing about them. Regardless of my ignorance, your set up does look impressive and I imagine would be a comfortable tourer.
With thrill seeking days long past, riding in snow doesn't sound like a great deal of fun.

The van charger has been switched on for a couple of days and has settled on a smidge under 13.7v. I will keep an eye on that.
Testing the Waeco power supply/rectifier, it seems to be doing what it should, albeit whilst ticking like a bomb. It starts up and converts 240v ac to 24v dc. Confusing why the fridge will run on 12 or 24v, with a preference for 24v.
24v must be more efficient?

It's satisfying getting some of those long awaited jobs ticked off the list. One thing I did manage to do a little while ago with pleasing results, was install a diesel heater to the van. Well worth the few shekels that were forked out.
Gee they are warm.

 

[Old.Tony]

We have a diesel heater that I have yet to install. I want the fuel tank to be slightly secure, so I'm hanging out to purchase a lockable checkerplate toolbox to mount on the A-frame to take the gas bottles and the new diesel tank, not just for "out of sight, out of mind" but also to keep little fingers away - our little guy has turned our gas off on us while we were free camping and we didn't notice straight away, and wondered why the fridge was getting warmer.

A tad under 13.7V is acceptable as a float charge level. Keep an eye on it, I suspect it might be ok if it's happy to get there and stay at that level. I wonder why it took a while to charge? Maybe it finished its bulk stage and sat in absorption stage for a while longer - possibly an aging battery? Maybe a little sulphation in it?

 

[joe2006]

I know you shouldn't laugh at other people's misfortunes but the little guy turning off your gas, did make me smile.
After much procrastination my diesel heater went under the bed and the tank went in the front boot. Mostly to prevent the non-UV stabilised plastic from deteriorating. I fitted a standpipe to allay fears of a leak and the fuel line is routed through the front boot drain.
A tool box is a good idea although I don't have room on the A frame.

It was a clumsy explanation re the charger. Trying hard not to be too verbose lol. The batteries are almost new and took a few hours to charge after the van was put in the shed for a couple weeks with no solar input. After a few hours they were sitting in 13.6v and a couple of days later, just under 13.7v. I checked this afternoon and back to 13.6v.

Here is my tank with fuel gauge (elongated hole!).

 

[Old.Tony]

Awesome, thanks for the pics, gives me an idea for my own installation. We don't have a front boot, but we do have a tunnel boot so I'll see if I can fit the tank in there instead. To put the toolbox on the front of the A frame I need to remove the gas bottles and remount them inside the box, which isn't bad to protect them from anybody (let alone our little guy) but comes at a cost that I can't cover at the moment.

Under our bed, we don't have drawers - it's all open space and where I store things like chairs and outside game things and our spare toilet cassette. I guess a little rearranging is in order! I can't think of anywhere better to install it, and any wasted heat will just cause the under-bed area to get warmer will be pleasant on those super cold nights.

The worst night we've had so far was -11 at Glen Innes in July a couple of years back, thankfully I'd remembered to go out in the evening after we'd finished using the water and turned it off and released the pressure in the hose, because by morning our hose had frozen solid - if I'd left it under pressure, the expansion of the ice as the water froze would have burst the hose and since I use flat-out hoses (over $200 each) it's not a cheap mistake to make!

 

[joe2006]

Awesome, thanks for the pics, gives me an idea for my own installation. We don't have a front boot, but we do have a tunnel boot so I'll see if I can fit the tank in there instead. To put the toolbox on the front of the A frame I need to remove the gas bottles and remount them inside the box, which isn't bad to protect them from anybody (let alone our little guy) but comes at a cost that I can't cover at the moment.

Under our bed, we don't have drawers - it's all open space and where I store things like chairs and outside game things and our spare toilet cassette. I guess a little rearranging is in order! I can't think of anywhere better to install it, and any wasted heat will just cause the under-bed area to get warmer will be pleasant on those super cold nights.

The worst night we've had so far was -11 at Glen Innes in July a couple of years back, thankfully I'd remembered to go out in the evening after we'd finished using the water and turned it off and released the pressure in the hose, because by morning our hose had frozen solid - if I'd left it under pressure, the expansion of the ice as the water froze would have burst the hose and since I use flat-out hoses (over $200 each) it's not a cheap mistake to make!

I did have to install a divider under the bed to isolate all of the other accumulated garbage, so as it couldn't come in contact with the heater. There is also a toggle switch, barely visible in the photo, so that I can turn off power to the unit and control panel (which is apparently prone to fading in my model). The toggle switch is deliberately hard to get to so that it can't be accidentally or absent mindedly turned off before the heater has gone through the shutdown cycle.
Only problem with the heater being located under the bed is the chance of the doona falling and covering a vent.

We had frozen hoses at Hilton one morning but I don't think it would have been anywhere near minus 11. The reverse cycle aircon is useless in freezing temperatures and although the little ceramic heater is usually OK, tethers us to shore power.

I wonder if you could lock the knob on the gas bottle?

Maybe not a great idea if there was some sort of emergency although probably not much different to when they are locked in the front boot of a van?

Excuse the crude screenshot but either too inept or lazy to provide something decent.

 

[Old.Tony]

^ That's a pretty good idea, might actually get them. Lock the bottles up when we're stopped for a decent amount of time, but not for a mid-journey stop - I'll turn on the gas and switch the fridge over - ours isn't an AES model but we're looking to change to a Bushman 12V/240V and add 2x 250W solar panels + 200Ah LiFePO4 battery. Usually when it's a stop for lunch or something he doesn't venture out, it's when we're stopped for a few hours or more and he's bored and goes outside that the fun begins.

We don't use our air conditioning for heating because its fan has two settings: "Off" and "Gale Force". We'd love to replace the unit with one from Gree, which we've seen in action and they're awesome, quiet, actual meaningful differences in fan speeds. Plus, when we're in cold climates, it's generally making brass monkeys feel lonely anyway.

We deliberately sought a 1500W ceramic heater so that our Eu20Si could run it if we were desperate, and found it for about $25 in BigW at Port Augusta. We woke to a refreshingly cold -6 and decided we needed something to get us warmer. Rotten thing's thermostat lasted just ONE night and then wouldn't turn off at a reasonable heat. Fixed that with a HeaterMate digital thermostat ($40 at Good Guys).

Wouldn't you know it, about 1 week after the HeaterMate was out of warranty that its on-board battery decided to pack it in. It wouldn't retain settings when it was off 240V ... that was annoying! Off to Jaycar I go, grabbed a small AAA enclosure, glued it to the HeaterMate, ran the wires inside and unsoldered the crap battery and put the wires in place, threw in a pair of NiMh AAAs and it's been right for years now.

The vent thing shouldn't be too much of a problem with ours, our bed has a huge overhang at the foot, so there's no chance the bed coverings can block anything. Stuff we put under there could though, but that's something we can learn to do differently, it's not going to be affected by an unconscious kick of the blankets during the night.

 

[joe2006]

^ That's a pretty good idea, might actually get them. Lock the bottles up when we're stopped for a decent amount of time, but not for a mid-journey stop - I'll turn on the gas and switch the fridge over - ours isn't an AES model but we're looking to change to a Bushman 12V/240V and add 2x 250W solar panels + 200Ah LiFePO4 battery. Usually when it's a stop for lunch or something he doesn't venture out, it's when we're stopped for a few hours or more and he's bored and goes outside that the fun begins.

We don't use our air conditioning for heating because its fan has two settings: "Off" and "Gale Force". We'd love to replace the unit with one from Gree, which we've seen in action and they're awesome, quiet, actual meaningful differences in fan speeds. Plus, when we're in cold climates, it's generally making brass monkeys feel lonely anyway.

We deliberately sought a 1500W ceramic heater so that our Eu20Si could run it if we were desperate, and found it for about $25 in BigW at Port Augusta. We woke to a refreshingly cold -6 and decided we needed something to get us warmer. Rotten thing's thermostat lasted just ONE night and then wouldn't turn off at a reasonable heat. Fixed that with a HeaterMate digital thermostat ($40 at Good Guys).

Wouldn't you know it, about 1 week after the HeaterMate was out of warranty that its on-board battery decided to pack it in. It wouldn't retain settings when it was off 240V ... that was annoying! Off to Jaycar I go, grabbed a small AAA enclosure, glued it to the HeaterMate, ran the wires inside and unsoldered the crap battery and put the wires in place, threw in a pair of NiMh AAAs and it's been right for years now.

The vent thing shouldn't be too much of a problem with ours, our bed has a huge overhang at the foot, so there's no chance the bed coverings can block anything. Stuff we put under there could though, but that's something we can learn to do differently, it's not going to be affected by an unconscious kick of the blankets during the night.

I briefly looked at the Gree site but haven't actually seen any of their gear. Do they have RV specific units?
Our ceramic heater has no thermostat. It struggled in Hillston (not Hilton, Paris or otherwise). Also, just looked at the HeaterMate site. Didn't know about those either. Not too keen if the internal battery is prone to failure. Additionally, I now find any reason to run the diesel heater.
I bought a hand held C02 meter which I leave in the van but in hindsight, should have bought a fixed C02 detector. The hand held unit is good to check the tune of the Holley 700 double pumper but it's not going to detect a malfunction that occurs during the night, when it's turned off and in the drawer of the van.

 

[Old.Tony]

You can buy CO detectors that look like smoke detectors (we have one in the caravan at seated-head-height and one downstairs near our fireplace). I know CO isn't CO2, but unlike CO, CO2 is heavier than air and would fall to the floor and run out the vent anyway, so we're not too concerned.

I think what killed the battery was its lack of being plugged in (they're designed for houses), but it was annoying that they'd solder-mounted a battery (like the really old computer motherboards) and didn't use a button cell, for instance. I used the 2xAAA just to make it dead simple to replace them.

We first saw the Gree when we were checking out a New Age Road Owl caravan. The van was plugged in, but the unit was turned off and the master switch was off as well as the main breaker. I turned them all on and obviously drew the attention of the sales guy when the outside part of the unit fired up (hahaha!). We then investigated and found that it was possible to replace the Dometic unit on our van with one of these (although the Gree unit is 5mm smaller on front and side dimensions).

I'll be installing our diesel heater soon, because chances are we'll try to escape during winter ... maybe head for Broken Hill/Lake Menindee which with any luck will still have water in it.

 

[joe2006]

You can buy CO detectors that look like smoke detectors (we have one in the caravan at seated-head-height and one downstairs near our fireplace). I know CO isn't CO2, but unlike CO, CO2 is heavier than air and would fall to the floor and run out the vent anyway, so we're not too concerned.

I think what killed the battery was its lack of being plugged in (they're designed for houses), but it was annoying that they'd solder-mounted a battery (like the really old computer motherboards) and didn't use a button cell, for instance. I used the 2xAAA just to make it dead simple to replace them.

We first saw the Gree when we were checking out a New Age Road Owl caravan. The van was plugged in, but the unit was turned off and the master switch was off as well as the main breaker. I turned them all on and obviously drew the attention of the sales guy when the outside part of the unit fired up (hahaha!). We then investigated and found that it was possible to replace the Dometic unit on our van with one of these (although the Gree unit is 5mm smaller on front and side dimensions).

I'll be installing our diesel heater soon, because chances are we'll try to escape during winter ... maybe head for Broken Hill/Lake Menindee which with any luck will still have water in it.

You were being too polite. Yes CO, not CO2. Doh.
And yes, I should have bought the CO detector that looks like a smoke detector, not the handheld one that looks like an old fashioned mobile phone.

Gee the Gree is mighty close in size to the Dometic unit. Shouldn't be too big a problem if you go down that path?

The hardest part of the heater installation is the start, making that big hole in the floor!

My memories of Broken Hill are the Pro Hart Gallery, the desert sculptures and the big chair on the hill. The latter is a good photo opportunity for the young bloke.

 

[Old.Tony]

You were being too polite. Yes CO, not CO2. Doh.
And yes, I should have bought the CO detector that looks like a smoke detector, not the handheld one that looks like an old fashioned mobile phone.

Gee the Gree is mighty close in size to the Dometic unit. Shouldn't be too big a problem if you go down that path?

The hardest part of the heater installation is the start, making that big hole in the floor!

My memories of Broken Hill are the Pro Hart Gallery, the desert sculptures and the big chair on the hill. The latter is a good photo opportunity for the young bloke.

We've been to Broken Hill a number of times now, the Living Sculptures out in the desert are quite interesting. We were talking with Jack Absalom just a few months before he passed away, what a character he is. We were lucky to have caught him at home - he usually ventured into the outback from about November to February but we went up that way during winter on our way to Port Augusta for the Pichi Richi Railway. Speaking of which, the railway museum in Broken Hill has some very nice trains on display and doesn't cost the world to get in.

I do worry about cutting holes in things especially when you have to be sure what's on the other side and can't see it. I'll be measuring the position precisely, I think I'll be fairly close to the front water tank and I really don't want the hot exhaust too near it.

Now that I've had my aircon apart (and I don't know why I called it a Dometic, it's a bloody Air Command Cormorant) the idea of changing the unit is less concerning. In reality, there's just a single AC power connection and a bunch of sealant. Nothing else. The inside plastic covers screw straight through the roof thickness into the main unit above. Remove that, undo the 240V wiring, remove all the silicone, undo the screws and off it comes. Position the new one, screw it into place, reconnect the wiring, put the interior covers on, apply copious amounts of silicone to the roof and the job is complete. No regassing required, it's a complete sealed unit. It will need an electrician to do the 240V wiring so that it can be certified (for insurance purposes), but that's a 2-minute job.

 

[joe2006]

We've been to Broken Hill a number of times now, the Living Sculptures out in the desert are quite interesting. We were talking with Jack Absalom just a few months before he passed away, what a character he is. We were lucky to have caught him at home - he usually ventured into the outback from about November to February but we went up that way during winter on our way to Port Augusta for the Pichi Richi Railway. Speaking of which, the railway museum in Broken Hill has some very nice trains on display and doesn't cost the world to get in.

I do worry about cutting holes in things especially when you have to be sure what's on the other side and can't see it. I'll be measuring the position precisely, I think I'll be fairly close to the front water tank and I really don't want the hot exhaust too near it.

Now that I've had my aircon apart (and I don't know why I called it a Dometic, it's a bloody Air Command Cormorant) the idea of changing the unit is less concerning. In reality, there's just a single AC power connection and a bunch of sealant. Nothing else. The inside plastic covers screw straight through the roof thickness into the main unit above. Remove that, undo the 240V wiring, remove all the silicone, undo the screws and off it comes. Position the new one, screw it into place, reconnect the wiring, put the interior covers on, apply copious amounts of silicone to the roof and the job is complete. No regassing required, it's a complete sealed unit. It will need an electrician to do the 240V wiring so that it can be certified (for insurance purposes), but that's a 2-minute job.

I forgot about seeing but not speaking to Jack Absolum. The railway museum is a possibility, if it has a big turntable. Otherwise it was somewhere else lol.

I spotted a Road Owl in Bendigo today. Perhaps fitted with a Gree? The housing seemed to come to a bit of a point at the rear.

Air Command sold out to Dometic a few years ago I think? If so, you were right. A Freudian slip?

A weeny pilot hole was less frightening and gave me the chance to measure clearances underneath. Still a worry when there is not a great margin for error.

First pick is the hole from underneath. Second is muffler hanging on an automotive rubber exhaust hanger. 3rd is the tiny fuel pump wrapped in so much sheet lead and insulation that it is huge, heavy and an eyesore. Also on an exhaust hanger.
I was worried about the fuel pump ticking and all the hard plastic fuel lines have a outer rubber sheath. Talk about over thinking!

 

[joe2006]

 

[joe2006]

PS in case you were wondering.... Yes, there is a chair leg stopper on the exhaust. This is to stop the wasps nesting when we are parked at home. The mud flap is in front of the wheel to protect the plumbing. The exhaust does not run all the way to behind the rear wheel.

 

[Old.Tony]

PS in case you were wondering.... Yes, there is a chair leg stopper on the exhaust. This is to stop the wasps nesting when we are parked at home. The mud flap is in front of the wheel to protect the plumbing. The exhaust does not run all the way to behind the rear wheel.

Awesome stuff, Joe, thanks for those pics! We have a wasp problem here, they even nest in the drain pipe for my water tanks. I don't like removing them, muddies are good for keeping the spider population down, but they need to go elsewhere ...

I'd just as likely forget to remove the plug, so I might make a small flap like you see on old tractor exhausts for mine.

I like the idea of suspending the fuel pump and wrapping it up too, I've got some high density foam that would be fairly good at dampening the sound.

You cut a round hole? I was going to cut square, using a multi-tool which cuts very fine and, if you take your time with it, nice straight lines, but a hole saw would be so much faster. I was concerned about exhaust heat affecting the timber floor, which is why I've made up the fibre cement plate to go between the heater and the floor. This would allow me a larger hole in the wooden floor, and still provide a seal. Do you think it's not going to be a problem?

Yes, definitely need to triple-check the location! I've already run a 12V cable under our bed, so I could have a 12V outlet on each side of the bed (we had 240V outlets, but no 12V - crazy!). I could use that hole as a guide underneath.

 

[joe2006]

Awesome stuff, Joe, thanks for those pics! We have a wasp problem here, they even nest in the drain pipe for my water tanks. I don't like removing them, muddies are good for keeping the spider population down, but they need to go elsewhere ...

I'd just as likely forget to remove the plug, so I might make a small flap like you see on old tractor exhausts for mine.

I like the idea of suspending the fuel pump and wrapping it up too, I've got some high density foam that would be fairly good at dampening the sound.

You cut a round hole? I was going to cut square, using a multi-tool which cuts very fine and, if you take your time with it, nice straight lines, but a hole saw would be so much faster. I was concerned about exhaust heat affecting the timber floor, which is why I've made up the fibre cement plate to go between the heater and the floor. This would allow me a larger hole in the wooden floor, and still provide a seal. Do you think it's not going to be a problem?

Yes, definitely need to triple-check the location! I've already run a 12V cable under our bed, so I could have a 12V outlet on each side of the bed (we had 240V outlets, but no 12V - crazy!). I could use that hole as a guide underneath.

I have only just put the rubber stopper on and fear that one day I will forget to remove it and wonder why the heater won't start. A flap is a good idea but wonder whether it will cause restriction, seeing as they are sensitive to the radius, number of bends and length of exhaust? I will change for sure if it's successful.

I was paranoid about the heat and cut out the vinyl to the rectangular shape of the plate that came with the heater. Used fire rated Sika on the floor with a piece of cement sheet on top. I put another layer of Sika on top of the cement sheet with the heater plate on top, followed by the heater itself. Somewhere in the process I used a downpipe pop to go through the floor to protect the cut and filled the gap with the Sika. Heat hasn't caused a problem to the floor and something forgotten about now.

 

[Old.Tony]

I have only just put the rubber stopper on and fear that one day I will forget to remove it and wonder why the heater won't start. A flap is a good idea but wonder whether it will cause restriction, seeing as they are sensitive to the radius, number of bends and length of exhaust? I will change for sure if it's successful.

I was paranoid about the heat and cut out the vinyl to the rectangular shape of the plate that came with the heater. Used fire rated Sika on the floor with a piece of cement sheet on top. I put another layer of Sika on top of the cement sheet with the heater plate on top, followed by the heater itself. Somewhere in the process I used a downpipe pop to go through the floor to protect the cut and tried to fill the gap with the Sika. Heat hasn't caused a problem to the floor and something forgotten about now.

That's roughly where I was going with mine. Good to know I'm not overdoing it!

I think if the flap is balanced so that it only just shuts, even a light exhaust pressure should open it and the exhaust should be stinky enough that wasps won't enter while it's running.

Actually, come to think of it, I usually put a slight 'S' in my sullage hoses as I run them downhill for similar reasons - I don't want a nasty climbing up out of the sink during the night!