Nissan d40 limp mode

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joshd40

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hey just a quick question, driving my d40 today and i seemed like it went into limp mode, had no power and would not rev. pulled over turned the car off, restarted and yer has not happen for the rest of the day..... ANY IDEAS???
cheers
 
Welcome to the forum, Josh. I'm going to assume it's a diesel, don't often hear about limp modes in the petrol versions.

Could be one of several things. Some models have a faulty EGR unit (might just be the software, not sure on that) and dealers have been replacing it as part of a recall.

It might also be the SCV - Suction Control Valve - it's part of the fuel pump. If it is, you can repeat the problem by getting the car to around 80km/h and planting your foot to the floor - the car should go limp. If it does, don't go getting a new SCV - have yours removed and cleaned, it's most likely just dirty. Then replace your fuel filter and re-think where you buy your diesel from - high turnover outlets (eg popular truck ports) or brand new servos are the best source.

Otherwise there are a number of things that could cause it, and sometimes it's just an electrical gremlin. The most common electrical gremlin is in the earth to the engine and to the ECU - remove, clean, reinstall then spray that blue shit over it to reduce corrosion.
 
Welcome to the forum, farmersean!

That doesn't sound like the typical SCV issue, which usually only occurs under full throttle (because that's when the fuel rail pressure doesn't match what the pump has been commanded to do = error code) but that is one remote possibility.

It's also possible that there's something not quite right with the fuel filter (a very finicky component) but switching the car on and off (which would stop the flow of fuel, then start it again) shouldn't ease a limp mode - it should make it worse, but it's another thing to check if all else fails.

There have been a spate of poor electrical connections noticed by people - in particular, the battery-negative-to-engine connection and the ECU-to-chassis connection. While this is also a long shot, it's a distinct possibility because of how erratic and unpredictable these loose connections can produce symptoms.

Lastly, poor vacuum seal on the turbo actuator hoses does cause apparent limp mode, but I wouldn't expect a power-off-power-on cycle to remedy it.

Does the check engine light (CEL) come on the dash when this happens?
 
It sounds like the fuel pressure relief valve that may need to be shimmed. I have been told that once you break the seal between the little ball berring it's prone to fail at almost any fuel pressure. By turning the car on and off it lowers fuel rail pressure which allows the ball berring to sit back into place closing the valve. If your car runs fine and you have no other dramas it most likely would be it.. I found this to be the problem with my navara.
 
From the nissan-navara.net site;

Bluenavara wrote: The shim indeed places a preload on the spring. The stock shim is 1.5mm. Add another 2.5mm shim or replace altogether with a 4mm shim. The valve is held together by nothing more than a crimp around the cap. (Mine was not crimped)

Carefully pry the crimp open while holding the valve in a vice, so that you don't lose the little ball bearing and the other small parts. Add the shim, put back in vice and recrimp around the cap. The valve body itself is M22 in size, the spill tube on the back end is secured by an M13 bolt. The crimped cap is the end that screws into the fuel rail itself.

FPRV on the leftside of the fuel rail (Andy's pic):
Prying the crimp open in a vice: Catch everything in a magnetic pan, the thicker extra shim seen on the left:
All parts neatly arranged before being put back together and the cap is recrimped (Fashraf's pic): As Diggerman mentioned, it's astonishing that such a crude and simple part is playing such a major and crucial role in controlling an advanced high pressure common rail fuel system.
 

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thanks for that lads no light comes on in dash just revs to 3000 and wont go any further no power flick the key real quick on and off and away she goes till u come to lights or junction same again doesnt do it when cold
 
limp mode

Hi guys my d40 has just gone into limp mode with no lights and when i sit idling for a while it stalls any ideas
 
Hi guys my d40 has just gone into limp mode with no lights and when i sit idling for a while it stalls any ideas

Mine did this after a service, while I never found out exactly what it was, I suspect the fuel filter wasn't sealed perfectly. It's a finicky bugger - there's a small seal in the middle of the thing that MUST be seated 100%, and after-market (non-genuine) filters just don't seem to ever get it right.
 
Hi guys found out that the primer bulb keeps sucking started this morning and within a few minutes of idling it sucked in again cold motor any ideas as to what I can do to fix problem??
 
Personally I'd change the primer bulb for a new one. You could just put a piece of hose in to replace it, but if you ever get stranded out of fuel somewhere, you'll be wishing you'd spent the coin on that, because there is NO other way to get fuel up to the engine - the fuel pump is NOT self-priming and it's NOT on the tank, so it will sit and suck air until it self-destructs from lack of lubrication (and that's $4,000 thank you Mr Nissan).
 
Welcome to the forum, Josh. I'm going to assume it's a diesel, don't often hear about limp modes in the petrol versions.

Could be one of several things. Some models have a faulty EGR unit (might just be the software, not sure on that) and dealers have been replacing it as part of a recall.

It might also be the SCV - Suction Control Valve - it's part of the fuel pump. If it is, you can repeat the problem by getting the car to around 80km/h and planting your foot to the floor - the car should go limp. If it does, don't go getting a new SCV - have yours removed and cleaned, it's most likely just dirty. Then replace your fuel filter and re-think where you buy your diesel from - high turnover outlets (eg popular truck ports) or brand new servos are the best source.

Otherwise there are a number of things that could cause it, and sometimes it's just an electrical gremlin. The most common electrical gremlin is in the earth to the engine and to the ECU - remove, clean, reinstall then spray that blue shit over it to reduce corrosion.
 
hi guys ..iv had a full 3 inch exhaust fitted to my stx550 ...now i have no power ..iv changed the air flow sensor and it made no diff ...then i did an ecu reset and it was much better for about 1 minute but now have engine light and no power :(
 
hi guys ..iv had a full 3 inch exhaust fitted to my stx550 ...now i have no power ..
Hey Mate, If your new exhaust has deleted the dpf without removing the sensors from the ecu then your always going to run into trouble..
first off, it'd be best to know if your 550 did have a dpf and weather your gone for a straight thru exhaust or not..
if you've done a reset and it's good for a minute then back to no good and you've changed up that maf sensor, there's another issue at play.
are you able to read the codes at all?
 
hey mate ..yea it had a dpf that had nothing plugged into it (already been sorted i was told) ...and yes a strait through system now ..will go get the codes looked at tomorrow ...it went good after i reset but only for 1 minute then back into limp and engine light on
 
hey mate ..yea it had a dpf that had nothing plugged into it (already been sorted i was told) ...and yes a strait through system now ..will go get the codes looked at tomorrow ...it went good after i reset but only for 1 minute then back into limp and engine light on
The STX550 did not have a DPF fitted to them (empty shell only) so there should be no problem there.
I wonder if the O2 sensor was refitted correctly if you had a new dump pipe as part of the new 3". It is not something that can simply be unplugged and it is very easily damaged. I dropped my dump pipe from a height of 50mm and the jarring stuffed it.
If you come up with a code you can post it might shed some light on it.
 
Hi all, Had my Navara D40 2011 model. (Spanish model. Built date 2009) go into limp mode. Turn car off and back on again and runs fine until it decides to go into limp mode again. I read things that everyone was doing to try and fix the problem and something worked. Never run better. Oh, and yes I did take it to a mechanic before doing this and got no where so I took the car back off him. Things I replaced were air filter, fuel filter, suction control valve, cleaned the mass air flow sensor with mass air flow sensor cleaner and done the ECU reset. (Can find how to do this easily on the net) This all took around 1 hour. Still waiting on temperature sensor which I'll replace once it gets here. Car runs awesome. If your having the same problem you might want to give all these a shot. Hope this helps. Cheers.
 
Mine has a similar challenge, did you manage to solve yours?
thanks for that lads no light comes on in dash just revs to 3000 and wont go any further no power flick the key real quick on and off and away she goes till u come to lights or junction same again doesnt do it when cold
 

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