New to D22’s

[Young_Horvy]

Hi all,

I have very recently been gifted my late dads ZD30 D22. It’s a 2006 with 250,000km on quite possibly everything.
Although dad serviced the engine frequently I unfortunately cannot ask whether he serviced all other critical components on the Ute. He did always call it his “work truck”, and it shows. Interior needs a good clean and shampoo, panels have minor scratches all over them and hand prints from various fluid which I cannot seem to buff out.

in spite of this the engine purrs at idle and starts with minimal crank.

I want to keep the Ute in the family in memory of him however want to fix the things he did not get around to doing, and they are:

Front and rear suspension
Resolve whirling sound under boost (only happens when warm)
Creaky clut
Steering
Tyres
Front brakes
Change of fluids in drive gear, brakes and coolant
Stereo upgrade (from factory)

I service our Mini Countryman myself and do a lot of preventative maintenance on it so am quite mechanically minded when pointed in the right direction.

I cant wait to pick everyone’s brains on here to help me resolve some of my current problems with the “work truck”.

All the best, from Brissy

thanks for reading

 

[Old.Tony]

Welcome to the forum.

My condolences on the passing of your father, it's never an easy time.

Most of what's listed isn't extraordinarily difficult to manage. The whirring under the bonnet may be a boost leak and/or may be related to the EGR valve, we'll delve further into that as time goes on. Some of the guys here are really good with the ZD30 and we've gained a few members recently with this powerplant under the bonnet.

 

[Horatius]

in spite of this the engine purrs at idle and starts with minimal crank.

I want to keep the Ute in the family in memory of him however want to fix the things he did not get around to doing, and they are:

Front and rear suspension
Resolve whirling sound under boost (only happens when warm)
Creaky clut
Steering
Tyres
Front brakes
Change of fluids in drive gear, brakes and coolant
Stereo upgrade (from factory)

I service our Mini Countryman myself and do a lot of preventative maintenance on it so am quite mechanically minded when pointed in the right direction.

I cant wait to pick everyone’s brains on here to help me resolve some of my current problems with the “work truck”.

All the best, from Brissy

thanks for reading

Is the whirring bad, or loud? I vaguely remember the old hitachi turbo in mine used to give a whir before I changed it. Not that there was really much wrong with it and it would probably still be going. The impellar was worn and pitted though (probably from being hit with a constant pcv oil mist) and had lost some performance. Though yours could be something else entirely for all I know.

This might (or might not) help save you some time.

The gearbox takes 5.1 litres of 75w-90 or 75w-85 gear oil. Make sure it is "GL4" spec. People have used higher spec oil only to have all sorts of problems.

The transfer takes 2.2 litres of the same oil as the gearbox, or you can use Auto Transmission Fluid.

The front diff takes 80w-90 gear/diff oil. 1.3 litres

The rear diff in the manual says 140 grade diff oil with friction modifiers, but most people use the common 85w-140 LSD oil. 1.3 litres.

After I flush the coolant I usually fill it with 5 litres of glycol from the dealers and then top up the rest with purified water. It gives the right mixture (between 40-50% glycol) and seems good quality and reasonably priced. Think it's 11 litres in the engine and whatever is in the overflow.

The recommended brake fluid is the older "dot 3".

Engine oil takes 6.7 litres of 10w-40 (with filter change).

 

[Horatius]

^ps. Though in practice you'll only fit about 6.5 litres of engine oil to get it "full" when you change it.

 

[Young_Horvy]

Is the whirring bad, or loud? I vaguely remember the old hitachi turbo in mine used to give a whir before I changed it. Not that there was really much wrong with it and it would probably still be going. The impellar was worn and pitted though (probably from being hit with a constant pcv oil mist) and had lost some performance. Though yours could be something else entirely for all I know.

This might (or might not) help save you some time.

The gearbox takes 5.1 litres of 75w-90 or 75w-85 gear oil. Make sure it is "GL4" spec. People have used higher spec oil only to have all sorts of problems.

The transfer takes 2.2 litres of the same oil as the gearbox, or you can use Auto Transmission Fluid.

The front diff takes 80w-90 gear/diff oil. 1.3 litres

The rear diff in the manual says 140 grade diff oil with friction modifiers, but most people use the common 85w-140 LSD oil. 1.3 litres.

After I flush the coolant I usually fill it with 5 litres of glycol from the dealers and then top up the rest with purified water. It gives the right mixture (between 40-50% glycol) and seems good quality and reasonably priced. Think it's 11 litres in the engine and whatever is in the overflow.

The recommended brake fluid is the older "dot 3".

Engine oil takes 6.7 litres of 10w-40 (with filter change).

Thanks mate, great insight on the fluids. I was just about to start collecting this info for future reference.

as for the whirling it was quite bad some time ago when we took it over to Straddie. Since bringing it home I noticed a clip on the air filter box was missing and was slightly ajar, also notice the foam seal was perished and missing. I put some foam seal in and added a trusty zip tie where the missing clip went. The whirling noise got quieter since, but is still there.

so could quite possibly be a boost leak between the air box and turbo. Some of the intake hoses look a bit perished.

need a rain free day up so I can dismantle it all and check it over properly.

while there I was going to do the egr delete as have some 1.6mm ally laying around.

 

[Young_Horvy]

Welcome to the forum.

My condolences on the passing of your father, it's never an easy time.

Most of what's listed isn't extraordinarily difficult to manage. The whirring under the bonnet may be a boost leak and/or may be related to the EGR valve, we'll delve further into that as time goes on. Some of the guys here are really good with the ZD30 and we've gained a few members recently with this powerplant under the bonnet.

Well I sorted the whirling sound by blocking the EGR yesterday. Do feel the car hesitates a lot less now on take off.

however the whirling has been replaced with a failing pulley. All that rain we have had has upset the Nav!

 

[Young_Horvy]

So a couple of days ago I sorted the horrid screeching sound under the bonnet. It was the belt tensioner steel bush (the one that bolts directly onto the engine). It was completely seized, after some soaking and pushing it out I cleaned it up and it was as good as ever. Also did replace the bearing, however didn’t feel like I needed to go through the $35 hassle. Believe it was just the seized bush (arrowed green)