Need help with diagnosis

[Lachiemacca2001]

Hi all,
I have a d22 YD25 and I’m looking for help on working out a issue I’m having,

It’ll occasionally loose a bit of power between 2000-3000rpm but not all the time, not only that but I find if I shift back to get a bit more power up hill if it is under load it occasionally just out of no where goes into limp home sometimes even on upshift it isn’t even under load sometimes it just goes into limp home, no engine codes I even checked it anyway with a reader and no codes came up, a little confused where I am to start looking for this problem hopefully someone knows, no other issues but I do find little black specks on my tailgate that look like dirt but they have been showing up after cleaning it on the same day if it does the thing where it’ll lose power the black stuff just shows right up just don’t know what it could be,

thank you in advance

 

[Been a while]

Howdy! N.P.S Switch is what I'd be trying, jump under and disconect it then test drive... if improved- replace ... simplze eh

On the gear box, drivers side, towards the rear of the gear bag...There's a few, look in the manual for the right one.. If you do a search on here under N.P.S or Neutral Position Switch you should find pics!
Sounds like the "royal nps issue"... 2 in mine so far, the second time gave a different issue too, the tricky little "shite of a thing".. The second time was very noticeable and constant and sounds like your issue... first was sporadic and just noticeable...

There's another way of testing that switch.
Go for a drive and try for 3rd 4th, whilst In each gear just wiggle the gearshift from side to side etc... see if it makes a difference when you have you foot into it and trying this at the same time.. you could try it in first and second also just to check but I think it's 3rd and 4th that shows the issue... welcome to navara world !

 

[Been a while]

Oh, hang on! Auto or manual b.t.w?


Oh, haaang on hang on HANG ON!
I just noticed you're in N.S.W..... PFFFF I charge $150ph for diagnostics by the way! We all know you thieves in NSW are rich and can afford it
That's why and how Canberra came to be, somewhere for all the thieves to wash all thier dirty cash and sell off our Australia .... boom boom!

I'll be here all week, or untill removed

 

[Lachiemacca2001]

Oh, hang on! Auto or manual b.t.w?


Oh, haaang on hang on HANG ON!
I just noticed you're in N.S.W..... PFFFF I charge $150ph for diagnostics by the way! We all know you thieves in NSW are rich and can afford it
That's why and how Canberra came to be, somewhere for all the thieves to wash all thier dirty cash and sell off our Australia .... boom boom!

I'll be here all week, or untill removed

Mine is a manual and yeah that was my issue everyone wants so much money to diagnose and I’m a second year apprentice carpenter and don’t have the money to even get it fixed and I have a loan so I can’t just give up and sell it off so guess who’s stuck trying to fix it… me haha thanks for your help I have a mate that lives close by that helped me do my service cheap maybe he could help me try the NPS thanks for your help haha

 

[Lachiemacca2001]

Howdy! N.P.S Switch is what I'd be trying, jump under and disconect it then test drive... if improved- replace ... simplze eh

On the gear box, drivers side, towards the rear of the gear bag...There's a few, look in the manual for the right one.. If you do a search on here under N.P.S or Neutral Position Switch you should find pics!
Sounds like the "royal nps issue"... 2 in mine so far, the second time gave a different issue too, the tricky little "shite of a thing".. The second time was very noticeable and constant and sounds like your issue... first was sporadic and just noticeable...

There's another way of testing that switch.
Go for a drive and try for 3rd 4th, whilst In each gear just wiggle the gearshift from side to side etc... see if it makes a difference when you have you foot into it and trying this at the same time.. you could try it in first and second also just to check but I think it's 3rd and 4th that shows the issue... welcome to navara world !

Mine doesn’t have a manual I can’t find a user manual and the service manual is generally coming up as the frontier version hopefully I’ll find the one for the nav in right hand drive

 

[Been a while]

Mine is a manual and yeah that was my issue everyone wants so much money to diagnose and I’m a second year apprentice carpenter and don’t have the money to even get it fixed and I have a loan so I can’t just give up and sell it off so guess who’s stuck trying to fix it… me haha thanks for your help I have a mate that lives close by that helped me do my service cheap maybe he could help me try the NPS thanks for your help haha

That's why most here don't mind helping out, a little can help alot sometimes eh.. ok, you can buy a c.d with the manual on it off flea bay, orrrr if you go introduce yourself and ask someone for a pic, you may get lucky.. Google helps.. search on here?

 

[Been a while]

Or you can be lucky and I'm working on mine and visiting here... her she is, part fiche and number AND A PICTURE!

Man, that's $180 thank you, would you like me to fit it for you SIR? Well try $140 Labour plus parts - $30 and UP, that part at nissan lol don't bother.. adds up eh

I've got nothing to do with this site but it would be nice to buy them a round of drinks, as in donation eh

 

[Horatius]

Howdy! N.P.S Switch is what I'd be trying, jump under and disconect it then test drive... if improved- replace ... simplze eh

Or just leave it disconnected. Not going to play up again down the track that way.

 

[Been a while]

Or just leave it disconnected. Not going to play up again down the track that way.

Yeah I hate taking things away like that, I did it for a while cause I was so pissed the second time it let me down though
I let it drip oil from another issue for months at the same time I was so over it... untill a mate picked up the oil leak and guilted me into fixing that and I started doing all those little things I'd let go again...
It bugged me so I replaced it at the same time, I just like knowing the heat switch works eh it is handy to have working..
It's like dash lights and those clips that break, I just have to replace em lol I hate to start because I can't stop, that oil leak from the rocker cover led me too new injectors, new glows with apertures cleaned, full egr valve removal, roof rack and more! Lol nuts huh!
I'd hate to think of all the work I've done on this horse! The time I've put into it!

But yeah, you can just disconnect them eh don't know why I didn't think of that lol derrrrr I must have been sniffing to much CRC that day! good catch !

 

[Been a while]

Forgot about these ones! Got a bit on man, sorry...

 

[Been a while]

Have a look at that price! That's genuine Nissan gear too! Lol my god those dealerships are pirates eh

Even after market from somone that's imported them here they're $30 and up, Nissan ?? $100 and up at least lol
If I remember I'll ring Melb Nissan and just see but I wouldn't be suprised at $150 or more ...

If you notice the first listing is always your years genuine part that will come in a box and is what is left from the original spare parts run for your model.
The next line will be the next spare parts run that is genuine, is the same part made by the same company but will not be boxed and labeled, why, for manufacturing costs.. If you can't get a boxed part here neither will a Nissan Dealership..
The next line will be oem part, still good Nissan quality and made to thier specs..
The next line is after market and so on, stop at second line or try 3rd lol but stay away from aftermarket vachina made crap...

 

[Rumpig]

Suction control valve failures give similar problems and are a know problem.

 

[Old.Tony]

The sooty black deposits on the tailgate are a concern. They're commonly from oil leaks - can you check your oil level for us, has it gone down any? Check in a week's time and compare (photos help, but make sure engine is at the same temperature each time you check).

Are there any signs of wetness under the vehicle? Check the steering rack, cross members, gearbox, transfer case and differentials as well.

 

[Lachiemacca2001]

The sooty black deposits on the tailgate are a concern. They're commonly from oil leaks - can you check your oil level for us, has it gone down any? Check in a week's time and compare (photos help, but make sure engine is at the same temperature each time you check).

Are there any signs of wetness under the vehicle? Check the steering rack, cross members, gearbox, transfer case and differentials as well.

That’s one I’m onto now with the oil leak let’s just say it looks like a hose on the back of the turbo has a slight leak but not terrible leak just a small dribble but I keep checking the levels and it isn’t losing much also the dash before I start the car tells me the oil level is ok only once has it said otherwise and that’s when I noticed and refilled and did a search it’s definitely a hose behind my turbo more towards the bottom

 

[Lachiemacca2001]

Thanks to everyone for your help so far I haven’t gotten around to checking the nps as I’m smashed with work at the moment
Also to anyone that might be able to help I was towing a trailer for my boss and for the first time ever it came up with the engine light after just going into limp home mode and fast too it was like I just slammed in the clutch without touching it then after a restart ram like new, I tried to check the code with my obd2 reader off eBay nothing so I reset and took it for a drive again and at the same rev range (around 3000 rpm) bang lost power back into limp home mode, not handy when you have inspections in two days and this is the first time you’ve seen an engine light, it’s the first time ever that my reader hasn’t been able to read a code on my car or anyone else I know for that matter,

I’m stumped but I did notice one thing my egr valve is very hot even with the quickest and smallest touch after driving and all the coolant hoses around my egr crunch when I squeeze them and feel like they have something hard in them, buildup of soot maybe? It’s definitely blowing some soot occasionally and the MAFS reads 6.8 then about 7.5-7.6 and 13 g/s while idling and it flickers between those and at 2500 rpm it normally reads about 30-35 g/s I know those are a bit higher than average from research could it be running rich and could it be a MAFS problem by chance?

 

[Old.Tony]

The MAFS (about the size of a credit card, sits in the air intake just outside the air filter box) can get dirty and provide poor data. Only clean this sensor with electrical contact cleaner (Jaycar, or MAFS cleaner @ auto stores, same thing), never touch the insides with any hard object, it will break.

It's possible that your EGR is working overtime and causing some of your issues. EGR normally only flows at throttle mid-range, so nothing at idle and nothing at full throttle. Many of us (particularly with older cars, 2012 and earlier, but newer models can do it too) simply block the EGR tube by adding a copy of the gasket that through a very unfortunate oversight oh my goodness I forgot to put the big hole in the middle.

The SCV as mentioned by @Rumpig is a definite candidate for the power loss. Whether yours is just dirty or, like mine was, has scoring on the sides - it needs to come out to determine that, but you could try a bottle of Liqui Moly Fuel System Treatment (under $20 in Supercheap) and see if that improves things.

The oil leak - if it's coming from the small tube going in, that's the pressure line with oil entering under pressure from the oil pump. There's a larger tube (15-20mm diameter) coming out directly and vertically underneath the turbo that returns excess oil to the sump. If neither of these are the "leak" points, it might be that there's damage to the turbo or the installer of the turbocharger used too much gasket sealer on the oil return connection. Even a small amount of excess here can cause problems, as the oil can't return freely to the sump it will build up and, with it being forced in under pressure, will quickly overwhelm the area.

 

[Lachiemacca2001]

Had a bit of a poke around the turbo is leaking a fair bit of oil now and also leaking a bit into the intercooler and out the exhaust could this be a failing turbo??

 

[Old.Tony]

It's quite possible. Try moving the shaft inside the turbocharger (remove the air intake hose from the front) - if there's any movement, pop the turbocharger out and give it a good look-over. You might get away with a rebuild kit - depends on how bad things are.

 

[Lachiemacca2001]

Old mate who owned the car before had oil gauges and were dodgy on wiring is this the sensor as it has the bad wiring and also is very loose and is pissing oil

 

[tweak'e]

Old mate who owned the car before had oil gauges and were dodgy on wiring is this the sensor as it has the bad wiring and also is very loose and is pissing oil

trouble with a lot of those sensors is they are NPT threaded not BSP threaded. so they will screw in a bit but will not seal.