Maf sensor

[aussie nav]

Has any ever got this code on their navs and how did you fix it?
P0113
Intake air temperature sensor circuit high
D40 2008 2.5 manual
After driving for about 10 to 20 minutes it loose a bit of power, I've replaced the maf sensor with genuine Nissan one and still does the same, could I have a dud sensor from Nissan????

 

[MANNING]

Its always possible to have a dud..



was the original fault code removed correctly?

 

[aussie nav]

Its always possible to have a dud..



was the original fault code removed correctly?

Yes it was mate but I suspect there maybe other things at play, when I serviced the car I used an airfilter that I never used before so tomorrow I'm going to get the ones I normally use and going to test the maf before the code comes up and then after
Cheers

 

[Old.Tony]

I'd also check the cable that connects to the MAFS for any damage, and examine the pins inside the connector to see if any have been bent.

 

[aussie nav]

I'd also check the cable that connects to the MAFS for any damage, and examine the pins inside the connector to see if any have been bent.

Yeah going to test the cable with a multimeter
Cheers Tony

 

[aussie nav]

Whoop whoop all fixed I think, no codes equals no problems, new maf, filter, contact cleaner and coolant
Thanks every one for your ideas

 

[aussie nav]

So back again with the same problem, thought I had fixed it but 900km road trip it happened within the first 200km and now engine light is on and I don't have my scanner with me and will have to drive back, put of ideas but desperate enough to try clean the egr even thou it's blanked and disconnect the gearbox neutral switch but doubt it will do any thing
Keep them ideas if any coming

 

[Old.Tony]

Check pin 1 on the MAFS itself. Ignition ON, engine NOT running. If ambient temp is around 25C, you should see 2.4V on this pin. If you measure the resistance across pins 1 and 2 at that temp you should get between 1800 and 2200 ohms.

If that's what you're seeing, the manual describes 3 ground points that may be a problem here:

1) Right near the ECM on the vehicle's right hand guard. Remove, clean, refit.

2) A connection right near the aircon high pressure service valve.

3) A connection against the left guard under the air box.

Good luck!

 

[aussie nav]

Back again with what I believe is the source of my priblems see attached pics one is the problem the other one is my fix all tool should get me home, also found that my egr blanking plate has holes in it so I took it off and looks fairly clean in there the only problem is now it leaks a bit of air where the plate was so might make the holes into one big hole and put it back as a gasket
Cheers every one and thanks Tony I followed up all of your advice, spent 4 days trying to find the problem and took 5 minutes today, hopping that's the end of it

 

[Old.Tony]

Fingers crossed it's over. A coolant leak was the problem? Glad you found it.

It's really very difficult to diagnose a car's problems using text. Sometimes even video doesn't do the problem justice.

Still, let's hope it's smooth sailing from here on.

 

[aussie nav]

Wasn't a coolant leak, it was the hose from the intercooler to the throttle body, had a split in it causing the maf sensor to throw a code, and the clamps on my hard pipe were a little loose, I don't believe it was enough to cause any issues but you never know with the amount of pressure, but checked every electrical connection and every hose clamp, I'm hopping that the split in the hose was the problem because it was also using alot more fuel than normal, I have a kit at home to replace all the rubber hoses but only ended up doing the turbo one
Cheers Tony