LSD rebuild?

[CarlJT]

Still having rear end slide out. Changed diff fluid which helped. However especially in wet at low-medium speeds and slippery corners rear will slide out. Is this diff issues.does it need a full Rebuild? Or could this be another issue. Wheel alignment is good. Tie rods, ball joints all new. Newish tyres. Shocks good.

 

[tweak'e]

if new oil helped then probably worn lsd. you can get them rebuilt.
what oil did you use?

 

[CarlJT]

if new oil helped then probably worn lsd. you can get them rebuilt.
what oil did you use?

Castrol limited slip, full Rebuild? Is that cheaper or second hand diff?

 

[tweak'e]

2nd hand diffs will be cheaper but probably well worn as well.
the cheapest option is to take foot off the throttle. its very easy to overpower a lsd. just think how it would drive if you had an air locker installed ie open diff.

 

[CarlJT]

2nd hand diffs will be cheaper but probably well worn as well.
the cheapest option is to take foot off the throttle. its very easy to overpower a lsd. just think how it would drive if you had an air locker installed ie open diff.

Where to find rebuild kits?

 

[Tappet]

Taking your foot off the go pedal will help. Not looked into rebuild kits. D40's limited slip really is limited. Be interesting to know if there is mod/ disk pack that gave better action for them. Be better off road.

BTW- what grade oil did you use?

 

[[email protected]]

would tire pressures pay a part in rear sliding eg unloaded compared to fully loaded , the pressure reccomendations on some tyres have 15-20 lb variance
.. would a ridge ed (solid)rear spring system help or make it worse .. some interesting info for cars

 

[CarlJT]

BTW- what grade oil did you use?

Castrol axle LS 90 GL-5

 

[tweak'e]

Where to find rebuild kits?

i have no idea. takes a bit of gear and know how to rebuild diffs. bearings are easy enough to source, no idea where to get clutch pack from.
also it might pay to run around for a bit then change oil again. just in case there is contamination in the clutch pack.
also try a wider spec oil like 85-140 or 70-90.

would tire pressures pay a part in rear sliding

kinda figured that would have already been done. utes are always tail happy in the wet as it is.
a rear sway bar would make them handle better, as would a panhard bar. but that decreases how good it is offroad.

a lot of it comes down to driving style, if your always accelerating through the turn your going to wear out the lsd. but still it should not be any worse than an open diff.

 

[CarlJT]

i have no idea. takes a bit of gear and know how to rebuild diffs. bearings are easy enough to source, no idea where to get clutch pack from.
also it might pay to run around for a bit then change oil again. just in case there is contamination in the clutch pack.
also try a wider spec oil like 85-140 or 70-90.

kinda figured that would have already been done. utes are always tail happy in the wet as it is.
a rear sway bar would make them handle better, as would a panhard bar. but that decreases how good it is offroad.

a lot of it comes down to driving style, if your always accelerating through the turn your going to wear out the lsd. but still it should not be any worse than an open diff.

Have got some 80-140 will see if that helps. What would this indicate going wrong will bearing replacement help or will I need to try source full Rebuild kit, can't seem to find any. Maybe clutch packs can be resurfaced? As can't seem to find replacement. I don't accelerate into corners. No noticeable noise from diff so assume gears are all good. Never found chips of metal when drained only filings

 

[tweak'e]

yeah 80-140 would be fine.
i suspect its just wear, thats typical with age and use. hence the filings as you would expect.
the preload has reduced so it takes less power or turn to make the lsd slip. just need to make sure the clutch pack isn't contaminated with old oil which can make it slip abruptly and cause a loss of traction.

 

[tweak'e]

http://gearinstalls.com/this is toyota but it can give you a rough idea of whats involved. tho many of the early nissan diffs are solid spacer.
plenty of writeups on clutch lsd (ignore the torsen lsd ones)

 

[tweak'e]

http://www.nissanpathfinders.net/fo...repack-a-h233b-limited-slip-differential-lsd/

 

[CarlJT]

yeah 80-140 would be fine.
i suspect its just wear, thats typical with age and use. hence the filings as you would expect.
the preload has reduced so it takes less power or turn to make the lsd slip. just need to make sure the clutch pack isn't contaminated with old oil which can make it slip abruptly and cause a loss of traction.

Changing oil may have smoothened it out slightly. Quite hard to tell though. May just be roads? Have recently moved to a rural road which is under maintained and a lot of smooth parts. On slippery parts of tar rear will slip, assuming it's lsd locking wheels to cause slip. Hasn't really ever happened before even on bad roads so I don't think it's driver error. May need to get checked but am quite stumped as to what exactly it could be. Especially as diff seems good otherwise. Could there be any other reason for rear sliding. How well would a rear sway bar or panhard bar improve this. Easy to install?

 

[Old.Tony]

How old are the tyres? What brand?

 

[CarlJT]

How old are the tyres? What brand?

Geolander ATs few months old at 33psi

 

[Old.Tony]

I don't mind the Yokohamas, I had them before the Maxxis and they were fine. 33psi is a little lower than I run mine (36 when not towing, 40 when towing) so you should have better grip (more rubber on the road).

I never found the Yokohamas excessively slippery, I rate their grip about on par with Maxxis and well above that of the BFGs and Continentals that I've had on the car.

So I doubt it's your tyres, unless your wheel alignment is poor. How's the wear pattern on the front tyres? Are the back tyres wearing flat across the tread like they should?

 

[Been a while]

Leave it and have fun geeeez I'd kill for a tight diff pack

I pulled mine apart at one stage with that intent, doesn't pay really... if she Is like the d22 diff they have a fault/soft spot with the retaining clips... I can't remember what profile it's under "been banned a few times few soft spots here too" but I did take some pics of the issues i found in mine...

Me, I'd be finding the "Oh yeah mate, she's only done 150'k diff" whilst you rebuild your old one with a harrop mm mmmm Try the Penrite gear and diff additives first, and then on a dry surface "big arsed car park" do figure - 8's in reverse and forward on a ""warm diff" a few blockies"" ... Additives, I use'em, the LSD will take that stuff as will all the gear bags, I use it in transfer, Gear box and diff.. if you've just changed oil that's perfect- try the additive and some aggressive figure 8's ...

That "150k diff" is still going, the harrop, not so much - missed the yanky dollar when it was even and they are stinking expensive now...

Or you could gather the great intellectual minds of the group and see what they say about filling the diff up with CRC .. Might get her moving lol

Have fun ...


And nooo , you don't fill your diff with CRC, no matter what Mr CRC says! Sure he has his uses, but not here, not todayyyyyy lol not ever .... Don't get me wrong, Mr OL' CRC does have her uses, but not here... Although "some" say it does stop fan belt squeal eh

haven't tried it myself...

 

[Tappet]

How well would a rear sway bar or panhard bar improve this. Easy to install?

I don't think a sway bar would help as a sway bar although reducing roll will induce more rear end slip (oversteer). Panhard bars although a great device for axle location and may help. It would not be easy to install and not worth the time money and effort.

 

[Tappet]

Like oversteer understeer vid Izzi. I think the Nascar boys have the best explanation. Oversteer is when you don't see what your going to hit. Understeer is when you do see what going to hit. Horsepower is how fast you hit the wall and Torque is how far you go into the wall.