Hoping to put the rattle to REST!!

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Rustys26

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Hi all, I've searched high and low for a solid answer to the infamous D22 engine rattle and have had no luck. I'm getting very very desperate and hope someone can help me out.

2013 Navara D22 (YD25).
I can trigger the noise by doing the following (in any gear, but easiest in 3rd and 4th):
Drive up to 2400-2500 rpms, let off the throttle. As the engine slows down, a wicked vibration/rattle/hum starts. This does not go away until I drop below about 1800rpms or change gears. The sound is LOUD and is sort of a mix of a rattle and hum. It sounds metallic and the speed of the vibration matches the speed of the engine. I DO NOT feel any vibration through the steering wheel or elsewhere...only hear it. edit: this also only seems to be an issue when engine has warmed up. doesn't occur when engine is cold

The vibration does NOT occur with normal acceleration through all gears. And it idles perfectly smoothly. I also don't think it occurs in neutral when revving the engine, but it is hard to tell if that is the case.

Suggested solutions I have tried and/or ruled out:
Heat shields
- have put jubilee clamps and padding around the shields at cat and under passenger footwell, no relief. Nothing feels loose
Front propshaft - as the D22 has locking hubs, this should mean the propshaft will not spin in 2WD, correct? So that can only be an issue in the D40s
Turbo leak - since it stops vibrating when slowing below1800rpms, i thought maybe turbo problem....but I don't hear this when accelerating over 2000rpms, only when the engine SLOWS down from fast speed, I don't see how this could be the issue
Air-box - This seems pretty solid and not likely the culprit
Fan and shrouding - Someone has suggested this is the problem, while the plastic shrouding does have SOME play....I don't think this is it.

Other than that, I guess that leads to a potential timing chain or injector issue. But I would expect i would hear symptoms of either of those at idle and/or acceleration. Have also read many owners replaced/serviced both of these and the issue persists....so I am hesitant to spend big bucks on something that will not solve my issue.

Would really appreciate some insight from someone with experience with this issue. The navara drives well and performance seems fine, but this is LOUD and very frustrating. Thanks in advance!
 
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my first suspect would be alternator alternator pulley/clutch.
not sure with the yd25 (i assume its that engine as its not mentioned) but common for them to fail on other engines.
 
my first suspect would be alternator alternator pulley/clutch.
not sure with the yd25 (i assume its that engine as its not mentioned) but common for them to fail on other engines.

Thanks for the reply, and yes it is the YD25, I'll edit that now.
I don't think it is the alternator pulley, have just replaced belt for power steering and asked mechanic to check main belt too and he didn't mention any issues.
When you say clutch, do you mean the damper springs have gone out? Any idea how to single this out without major work?
 
the alternator pulley is typically a one way clutch. when engine slows down the alternator disconnects and coasts along.
they can make a bit of noise when they fail.
disconnect the belt, give the alt a spin by hand and grab the pulley. see if it makes strange noises.
 
the alternator pulley is typically a one way clutch. when engine slows down the alternator disconnects and coasts along.
they can make a bit of noise when they fail.
disconnect the belt, give the alt a spin by hand and grab the pulley. see if it makes strange noises.
Thanks, will have a look. But considering this only makes the noise after reaching certain RPMs and not when the engine is cold, I don't expect I'd hear it when turning by hand. Will look into it anyway. Cheers
 
Thanks, will have a look. But considering this only makes the noise after reaching certain RPMs and not when the engine is cold, I don't expect I'd hear it when turning by hand. Will look into it anyway. Cheers
IF ?alternator pulley has clutch, Initually When faulty I would expect the noise should come in when you slacken revs or rev to hard, and also during high revs when the clutch pulley is trying to regulate the revs of the armature, to test carefully put a screw driver int alt to jam the armature. spin pulley it, it should spin freely only one way and eventually stop spinning,the opp direction has inbuilt brake . my symptoms was metalic sound which eventually went to continouse death rattle. on inspecting the belt tensionor was virtually bouncing ( i thought belt is going to come off)), origionally i was told its the air conditioner brake pulley then its the tensioner its bouncing (having previosly spun both by hand) ,i didnt except their reccomendations . searching on net i found out about alt having a clutch pulley , then i tested it and sure it was jammed wouldnt free spin one way. i had a special kit to remove pulley but it had virtually stuck itself to shaft ,had to use angle grinder to free it . what pisses me off with modern teck is one needs to have an extra long tick list to check before changing any parts or sensors.
 
It could be as simple as a lose screw on the heat gaurd or under the dash. As we have had it happen in one of our previous utes.
 
IF ?alternator pulley has clutch, Initually When faulty I would expect the noise should come in when you slacken revs or rev to hard, and also during high revs when the clutch pulley is trying to regulate the revs of the armature, to test carefully put a screw driver int alt to jam the armature. spin pulley it, it should spin freely only one way and eventually stop spinning,the opp direction has inbuilt brake . my symptoms was metalic sound which eventually went to continouse death rattle. on inspecting the belt tensionor was virtually bouncing ( i thought belt is going to come off)), origionally i was told its the air conditioner brake pulley then its the tensioner its bouncing (having previosly spun both by hand) ,i didnt except their reccomendations . searching on net i found out about alt having a clutch pulley , then i tested it and sure it was jammed wouldnt free spin one way. i had a special kit to remove pulley but it had virtually stuck itself to shaft ,had to use angle grinder to free it . what pisses me off with modern teck is one needs to have an extra long tick list to check before changing any parts or sensors.
Thanks mate, that is really helpful. Those sound like the exact symptoms that my ute is experiencing, so it is a promising lead. I will check it out this weekend.

But to be clear: if the alt clutch is okay it will spin in one direction freely until it eventually stops spinning. If it is not working properly, it will not freely spin in either direction?

Will let you know how it turns out! Cheers
 
It could be as simple as a lose screw on the heat gaurd or under the dash. As we have had it happen in one of our previous utes.
Thanks, but I've gone over all of the heat shields pretty thoroughly and can't find anything loose. I've even put some clamps on some regardless just for good measure.
 
It shouldn't be injectors. At those RPMs if you're backing off the throttle, engine load will be low enough the ECU should be not bothering to open the injectors anyway. You could probably rule out the turbocharger/exhaust manifold for the same reason (except there IS air flowing through the motor). There's no exhaust brake on these cars (unless fitted as an after-market device).

Some D40s had a problem with the hydraulic brake lines tapping the firewall at certain RPMs, and it was "fixed" by adding packing foam behind them - and properly fixed by re-fitting the lines (pretty sure Nissan did this for some owners as it was a manufacturing fault). I know yours isn't a D40, but check the hydraulics anyway, for Justin (case).

Otherwise it could be the reverse loading on a drive shaft (and in particular the centre bearing as pointed out by Ian above). Universal joints that are slightly worn could easily do this, inspection is the first step. It probably won't be your front shaft unless you drive around in 4WD all the time (or have your hubs locked), so check the rear shaft.
 

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