High idle fuel pressure D22 navara yd25

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Jordy_straya

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Hi guys i have a 2013 d22 navara yd25 thats had new injectors, new fuel rail and an ecu reset. I have run it on a dyno and no codes appeared but it has high fuel pressure at idle (idles at 1100rpm) and has a slow idle return. I have checked for vacuum leaks and it appears to have none. It has been to nissan and uni chip no one knows what the issue is. Please help.
 
also it idles at 750rpm and idle return is good when cold starting in temps below approx 7deg Celsius
 
There's a function in the D22 to increase the revs when cold (they call it a "heat switch", I think) and I wonder if there's an issue with that, somewhere? When the engine is warm, using the switch raises the RPM. Is this being left on?
 
There's a function in the D22 to increase the revs when cold (they call it a "heat switch", I think) and I wonder if there's an issue with that, somewhere? When the engine is warm, using the switch raises the RPM. Is this being left on?
Nah the heat switch is now left on
 
Im thinking its something electrical, ive checked the throttle position sensor, and fuel pump wires on the ecu and they show the correct voltage readings. Something is weird with this.
 
How's the maf sensor, clean? Also, what is the maf rate and intake air temperature that the ECU is seeing when the issues are occuring? These are available through the torque app on Android and probably any decent PC based diagnostic equipment.

Having been to unichip as mentioned above, I will assume a chip has been fitted. Has this been removed for testing purposes to see if it changes anything?
 
How's the maf sensor, clean? Also, what is the maf rate and intake air temperature that the ECU is seeing when the issues are occuring? These are available through the torque app on Android and probably any decent PC based diagnostic equipment.

Having been to unichip as mentioned above, I will assume a chip has been fitted. Has this been removed for testing purposes to see if it changes anything?
Ive cleaned the maf sensor, but havent checked the intake temps with OBD2 yet.
And no it doest have a chip or tune.
 
Fair enough. Can you take a video of what the tacho is doing? It is a weird problem, but has to be something simple...
 
sounds like I have the exact same problem with mine. Mines a 2012 D22 YD25 with just over 100,000km, Its had this issue for some time, very annoying. Its intermittent and idles at 1100rpm and seems to hold the revs at 1100rpm before dropping down to 750rpm. While driving I can hear it in the engine and when I gear down and stop, the revs hold on 1200-1100 and takes its time to drop back to normal. Initially I thought it was the catch can, I didn't have the can low enough initially and thought that oil was not flowing out properly and could be collecting in the hose and sometimes finding its way back to the crank causing intermittent surges. The catch can was lowered, however the problem persists. Ive since replaced the MAF with new, replaced all filters, fuel, air, oil, (all with genuine Nissan) and Intercooler flushed and cleaned. Ive done the NPS check and all appears good and ive recently replaced both batteries and done a ecu reset and no joy. Its been in to a diesel specialist and dyno'd and made 101 hp with no issues found. Apart from a catch can and K&N filter the ute is stock. My next plan was to replace the SCV or just take it into Nissan to try and diagnose. It seems to be getting additional power surges from somewhere which made me think it could be a faulty injector however nothing came up on my recent diagnostics and all the injectors seem to sound very consistent to each other with no outlier/rattle/loudness( however one has a leaky seal) . Im stumped and can only keep trying cheap sensor replacements in the mean time. I do remember reading that a crap battery can lead to issues due to the lack of initial cranking power on start up leading to the ECU over compensating until the alternator kicks in. Apparently this can lead to similar symptoms. Ive only replaced my batteries today so ill see how she goes. Ill report back with any updates.
 
sounds like I have the exact same problem with mine. Mines a 2012 D22 YD25 with just over 100,000km, Its had this issue for some time, very annoying. Its intermittent and idles at 1100rpm and seems to hold the revs at 1100rpm before dropping down to 750rpm. While driving I can hear it in the engine and when I gear down and stop, the revs hold on 1200-1100 and takes its time to drop back to normal. Initially I thought it was the catch can, I didn't have the can low enough initially and thought that oil was not flowing out properly and could be collecting in the hose and sometimes finding its way back to the crank causing intermittent surges. The catch can was lowered, however the problem persists. Ive since replaced the MAF with new, replaced all filters, fuel, air, oil, (all with genuine Nissan) and Intercooler flushed and cleaned. Ive done the NPS check and all appears good and ive recently replaced both batteries and done a ecu reset and no joy. Its been in to a diesel specialist and dyno'd and made 101 hp with no issues found. Apart from a catch can and K&N filter the ute is stock. My next plan was to replace the SCV or just take it into Nissan to try and diagnose. It seems to be getting additional power surges from somewhere which made me think it could be a faulty injector however nothing came up on my recent diagnostics and all the injectors seem to sound very consistent to each other with no outlier/rattle/loudness( however one has a leaky seal) . Im stumped and can only keep trying cheap sensor replacements in the mean time. I do remember reading that a crap battery can lead to issues due to the lack of initial cranking power on start up leading to the ECU over compensating until the alternator kicks in. Apparently this can lead to similar symptoms. Ive only replaced my batteries today so ill see how she goes. Ill report back with any updates.
Y
sounds like I have the exact same problem with mine. Mines a 2012 D22 YD25 with just over 100,000km, Its had this issue for some time, very annoying. Its intermittent and idles at 1100rpm and seems to hold the revs at 1100rpm before dropping down to 750rpm. While driving I can hear it in the engine and when I gear down and stop, the revs hold on 1200-1100 and takes its time to drop back to normal. Initially I thought it was the catch can, I didn't have the can low enough initially and thought that oil was not flowing out properly and could be collecting in the hose and sometimes finding its way back to the crank causing intermittent surges. The catch can was lowered, however the problem persists. Ive since replaced the MAF with new, replaced all filters, fuel, air, oil, (all with genuine Nissan) and Intercooler flushed and cleaned. Ive done the NPS check and all appears good and ive recently replaced both batteries and done a ecu reset and no joy. Its been in to a diesel specialist and dyno'd and made 101 hp with no issues found. Apart from a catch can and K&N filter the ute is stock. My next plan was to replace the SCV or just take it into Nissan to try and diagnose. It seems to be getting additional power surges from somewhere which made me think it could be a faulty injector however nothing came up on my recent diagnostics and all the injectors seem to sound very consistent to each other with no outlier/rattle/loudness( however one has a leaky seal) . Im stumped and can only keep trying cheap sensor replacements in the mean time. I do remember reading that a crap battery can lead to issues due to the lack of initial cranking power on start up leading to the ECU over compensating until the alternator kicks in. Apparently this can lead to similar symptoms. Ive only replaced my batteries today so ill see how she goes. Ill report back with any updates.
Sounds very similar, does ypurs shake on idle return between 2000 and 1000rpm?
 
You may notice the symptoms are now a little different to what i originally described thats because it kinda acts differently each day. Last week on 2 short drives after not driving the nav for 4days the idle return was perfect and it idled at 750rpm. Now its acting weird again😪😪. Its so annoying. When i take it to the machanics it acts fine then when i get home it mucks up
 
Mine is the same, its intermittent. I suspect a bad earth on mine. Ive replaced both batteries and it was fine for a while, then it returned again. Its very annoying. Im going over all the earth points this week to clean them up. Only other thing I noticed is that one of my idler pulleys is very very loud, possibly the alternator. Was thinking that it may be upsetting the alternator possibly. Get yourself a voltmeter and check your cranking battery, should be around 12.4 to 12.6V, Get someone to start the car for you while you check the V and confirm that your battery doesn't drop below 10V during cranking. If it does, its time for a new one. I ran my standard batteries for almost 8 years, probably wasn't a great idea but they never let me down. If your alternator is good, you should be maintaining around 14.2V on idle.

So, one thing Ive noticed when mine is playing up is that it will hold revs at 1000rpm until the car stops moving. I can come off the throttle and it will just hold on 1000rpm providing the car is rolling. This will go on even when i'm crawling to a stop, providing the car/engine has any forward motion, it will hold on 1000rpm and the second the car stops moving, it drops to 750. Really weird. This is why i'm guessing it may be the pulley due to it having a direct correlation with the motion of the engine. Ive been very busy recently and haven't had time to go at it. Ill report back with any more info once ive checked all these.
 
Mine is the same, its intermittent. I suspect a bad earth on mine. Ive replaced both batteries and it was fine for a while, then it returned again. Its very annoying. Im going over all the earth points this week to clean them up. Only other thing I noticed is that one of my idler pulleys is very very loud, possibly the alternator. Was thinking that it may be upsetting the alternator possibly. Get yourself a voltmeter and check your cranking battery, should be around 12.4 to 12.6V, Get someone to start the car for you while you check the V and confirm that your battery doesn't drop below 10V during cranking. If it does, its time for a new one. I ran my standard batteries for almost 8 years, probably wasn't a great idea but they never let me down. If your alternator is good, you should be maintaining around 14.2V on idle.

So, one thing Ive noticed when mine is playing up is that it will hold revs at 1000rpm until the car stops moving. I can come off the throttle and it will just hold on 1000rpm providing the car is rolling. This will go on even when i'm crawling to a stop, providing the car/engine has any forward motion, it will hold on 1000rpm and the second the car stops moving, it drops to 750. Really weird. This is why i'm guessing it may be the pulley due to it having a direct correlation with the motion of the engine. Ive been very busy recently and haven't had time to go at it. Ill report back with any more info once ive checked all these.
Mine used to to that too, pretty sure it's a standard ecu program thing. Whether it is to do with a certain idle map in the ecu I couldn't say, but didn't matter if in neutral or in gear it would do the same thing. Same if you engage the clutch a bit too hard and labour the motor slightly at idle, the ecu would compensate and increase the revs a bit.

I should say, I never had any engine dramas in the 125k km I owned it for. Separated the factory batteries not long after I bought it too with a redarc sbi12 isolator and set the passenger's side one up as an aux before eventually replacing the starter with an ns70 and the aux with an ns70t.
 
Mine used to to that too, pretty sure it's a standard ecu program thing. Whether it is to do with a certain idle map in the ecu I couldn't say, but didn't matter if in neutral or in gear it would do the same thing. Same if you engage the clutch a bit too hard and labour the motor slightly at idle, the ecu would compensate and increase the revs a bit.

I should say, I never had any engine dramas in the 125k km I owned it for. Separated the factory batteries not long after I bought it too with a redarc sbi12 isolator and set the passenger's side one up as an aux before eventually replacing the starter with an ns70 and the aux with an ns70t.

Hi mate, cheers for the info,

Mine does the same with the clutch, Its almost like the ecu goes into an 'anti-stall' mode!! Its very sensitive to the revs dropping bellow a certain point and definitely increases the revs. Problem with this though it makes the car very annoying to drive, especially attempting small manoeuvres like reversing into tight spots or pulling into the garage/port. As soon as i'm off the clutch, especially in reverse, the car is off!! Im having to feather the clutch to stop me going through a wall or running someone over!! If I have enough space I can come fully off the clutch then it will ease down slightly, but when there is limited space i'm always on the clutch. This cant be normal surely!?? Due to it being intermittent, (more frequent these days) I'm now convinced its down to a vacuum leak, which would explain the ecu changing the map. Ill be checking for a leak on the wknd, Failing that, I have no choice but to take her to Nissan for a diagnostic.
 

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