Hi guys can you help please

[Apple1977]

So I have this problem


Check engine light on start up.....

step 1 : engine running (check engine light present).

step 2: engine running check engine light on... press heat switch to on ... run for 10 secs...

step 3: turn off heat switch after 10 secs ... stop engine

step 4: turn on engine and the light is gone full power restored until the next shut down of engine manually.

will drive for miles and miles like 65 miles no problems full power speeds of up to 85 mph no problem ... so it drives great it cant be the fuel pump otherwise it wouldn't do 85 mph on the motorway and it wouldn't drive for 65 miles. Neutral position switched changed today no change. Only gave one engine code fault of 75. P5 Pump c/module which given i would agree could relate to the control module on the fuel pump. But 65 miles guys and speeds of 85 mph on the motorway.?? whats the deal with the switch issue clearing the code ?? can anyone relate to this at all ??

 

[Apple1977]

Sorry it’s a D22 2004 2.5 Di

 

[Horatius]

You've done all the usual fuel system maintenance/checks? Like replace filter, check primer, hoses and pipes/connections and so on? Know nothing about that particular motor, assume it is direct injection?

The problem could be intermittent in the control module, rather than in the pump itself? Are they original injectors?

 

[Apple1977]

Hi
Thanks for the reply .. they will most likely be the original injectors that in in the truck to be honest. I have given it a full service oil air and fuel all changed. Starts and runs perfect, I’ve checked all the earths on the engine too. I have noticed though in the last few days I’ve been getting a slight little electrostatic shock from the the door when I touch it. I wonder if there’s a bad Earth somewhere that could cause it. The primer pumps solid after 3 or 4 pumps, should it stay solid ??? Only when I check it say a day or two later I can give it another 3 pumps and it goes solid again. I’ve had a look at the pipes can’t see anything bad like cracks or splits or anything... are the hoses I need to check just around the engine bay. I’ve also changed the fuel filler cap. It’s something very simple though right given it keeps comming on and off ....

 

[Horatius]

The primer pump sounds normal but the fault code could isn't good. The ecu is reading that the pump module is working outside of normal parameters. There could be possible reasons for this other than a faulty module, say a faulty injector?That's speculation at best though.

Yeah not just the rubber hoses, there should be pipes going from back of pump to each injector (if it's direct injection). Fuel system problems can be simple to sort, they can also be a pita and a sense of humour can help lol. Hopefully someone will be along who might have had such problem before and can give more specific advice of what to check, before thinking the pump itself.

 

[Been a while]

Is it wet where you are ? I ask because one of the issues with those lumps is actually two wires that run outside the injector pump that slowly lose thier insulation... I took photos of it when it happened to mine, I'm just wondering if she earthing out on those two wires... or one of them, then the next one goes and she finally burns out..

Check down there with a mirror, don't touch them as the insulation will just crumble... and I mean crumble...

I can't remember the posts name or what name I was using at the time but I'm sure those photos are on here somewhere...

I'm just wondering if it is these two wires and she is still running, I'd be disconnecting the battery and giving those two wires a coat of "paint on insulation".....
I'll see if I can find the post on here for you...

 

[Been a while]

Look up replacing zd30 injector pump wanting second opinion..

https://www.navaraforum.com/attachments/20180719_131914-jpg.22459/

 

[Been a while]

See those two lower wires! I didn't notice that until it was out and I touched them, they fell apart in my hand...

 

[Apple1977]

T

The primer pump sounds normal but the fault code could isn't good. The ecu is reading that the pump module is working outside of normal parameters. There could be possible reasons for this other than a faulty module, say a faulty injector?That's speculation at best though.

Yeah not just the rubber hoses, there should be pipes going from back of pump to each injector (if it's direct injection). Fuel system problems can be simple to sort, they can also be a pita and a sense of humour can help lol. Hopefully someone will be along who might have had such problem before and can give more specific advice of what to check, before thinking the pump itself.

thanks for the reply ... I’ll check those tomorrow .. because the engine warms up and I switch it off and then start it again the faults gone and everything’s normal ... that’s the confusing part ... if it was the pump it just wouldn’t drive right ... I mean I’ve drove 160 miles so fare on it ... so what do you guys think ? Logically it can’t be the pump right

 

[Horatius]

thanks for the reply ... I’ll check those tomorrow .. because the engine warms up and I switch it off and then start it again the faults gone and everything’s normal ... that’s the confusing part ... if it was the pump it just wouldn’t drive right ... I mean I’ve drove 160 miles so fare on it ... so what do you guys think ? Logically it can’t be the pump right

That's impossible to say at this stage. Have you tried an "ecu reset"? It might not help at all but it's easy and can't hurt. Been a while makes some good points on other things to check. I know I have have an engine light come on after getting water in the plug to the fuel pump, a quick spray of wd40 sorted it.

Timing is not as critical with this method...no stop watch needed. Just count in your head...one-one thousand, two-one thousand, etc, or use stop watch. The most critical step is step #3....wait 10 sec, instead of 7.

1. Ignition "ON", count to 3.
2. Depress/Release pedal 5 times...hard and fast.
3. Count to 10 (not 7!) and fully depress pedal
4. Count to 12 (SES should be blinking), release pedal
5. Count to 10, depress pedal
6. Count to 10, release pedal.
7. Turn off ignition, then start engine. Done!

https://www.navaraforum.com/threads/d22-ecu-reset-procedure.2654/

 

[Apple1977]

I’m just wondering though … first start up I have to warm the engine up for 10 mins, then I switch it off and restart and it’s perfect … this week I’ve drove it over 170 miles so it couldn’t possible be a fuel delivery issue right I mean it drives perfect after warm up. I wonder if somethings sealing back up under the heat very strange, but like I say once warm it’s amazing super fast and responsive so I really think it’s something and nothing. Are they many sensors on aD22 2.5 Di. 2004 ?

 

[Apple1977]

Oh and my fuel pump doesn’t have any plugs plugged into it … never has is that normal ? There’s no wiring for it to plug in anywhere

 

[Apple1977]

Oh and my fuel pump doesn’t have any plugs plugged into it … never has is that normal ? There’s no wiring for it to plug in anywhere

Fuel filter I mean not the pump

 

[Horatius]

Think the previous advice was to check wiring and plugs for fuel pump itself.

Assuming they're the same as zd30 (?) there should also be wires going into the part that screws into the bottom of the filter. Goes to a float switch in there to let you know if there's water in it.