Hi all 2008 D40 v6 petrol STX airbag light and no steering wheel controls at all ??

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crocodillis

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Well I have replaced the clock spring and ECU airbag control unit under the console
I'm getting the airbag open circuit code scanned with Nissan specific Icarsoft scanner.

I have replaced all sensors on the gearbox and checked both brake pedal and clutchpedal switches for proper contact
so cruise control does not work horn does not work no radio control and the annoying airbag light just wont shut the hell up
any feedback much appreciated.
 
It really does (and yes, I did read that you replaced it) sound like the clock spring has a fault.

I know it's a PITA, but have you tried popping the clock spring again and testing the continuity of each of the connections? It would not be the first time that a brand new item was faulty out of the box!

Just remember when removing/installing clock springs to ensure that the vehicle's wheels are pointing straight, and that you've re-found the centre of the clock spring. I've installed a clock spring straight from "the factory" that was NOT centred, my wheels were straight but I didn't undo the clasp and count turns in both directions. The result was when I turned my steering wheel, it ripped the ribbon cable completely out of the connector on one end - rebuild time again, zero km travelled!
 
Hi Tony its looking like that might be the issue I will pop the clockspring tomorrow an run some continuity tests
out of curiosity you say you have rebuilt yours in other posts how did you separate the unit??
 
Have your tried the Air Bag reset procedure?

1. Turn the key from off to on.

2. Watch the airbag light closely. It will stay on for a few secs. and then as soon as it blinks off (the start of the flashing), turn the key off instantly.

3. Count 5 seconds exactly.

4. Repeat steps 1-3 two more times until you have done the cycle three times.

5. Now turn the key on and watch the light. It will start blinking in a different, slower manner. This is diagnostic mode. You can watch this for a little while, no hurry.

6. Now turn the key off again, Count to 5 like in step 3 again, and turn back on. If the procedure worked, the airbag light will not be flashing.

I have the Air Bag warning light come on when I Plug in my canopy. Not when I unplug it (it has central locking, Centre Brake light...) When I unplug to take off, No light. I have absolutely no idea why but the reset sort's it.
 
Have your tried the Air Bag reset procedure?

1. Turn the key from off to on.

2. Watch the airbag light closely. It will stay on for a few secs. and then as soon as it blinks off (the start of the flashing), turn the key off instantly.

3. Count 5 seconds exactly.

4. Repeat steps 1-3 two more times until you have done the cycle three times.

5. Now turn the key on and watch the light. It will start blinking in a different, slower manner. This is diagnostic mode. You can watch this for a little while, no hurry.

6. Now turn the key off again, Count to 5 like in step 3 again, and turn back on. If the procedure worked, the airbag light will not be flashing.

I have the Air Bag warning light come on when I Plug in my canopy. Not when I unplug it (it has central locking, Centre Brake light...) When I unplug to take off, No light. I have absolutely no idea why but the reset sort's it.
 
Hi Tony its looking like that might be the issue I will pop the clockspring tomorrow an run some continuity tests
out of curiosity you say you have rebuilt yours in other posts how did you separate the unit??

After removing the clock spring, take a look down the middle, you'll notice plastic tabs with locking tangs on the end. You put a small screwdriver under each tang and the slide the thing in half. Take care not to bend the pins of the connector - separate the halves evenly (keeping the upper and lower faces parallel).

Inside you'll see the ribbon cable coiled around the inside. I have bought just the ribbons (actually, my wife found them on eBay) and rebuilt mine before - it's not only cheaper, but I don't open the box and suddenly have a left-hand-drive version (large "L" on the top). Yes, L versions are different and cause indicator cancellation to work a little differently. I don't know (didn't think to try) if the ribbon cable out of a "L" version fits an "R" version, but the ribbon cables are cheaper anyway.
 
Thanks Tony thats the deal for me im 58 and old school don't like throwing it out to become landfill whatever happened to the if its broke fix it mentality?
Now all I have to do is scan evilbay and see if I can find the ribbon to get me a spare or 2 for just in case cheers for your help
 
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Update all pins have continuity I probably should have mentioned I bought the car in this condition so I guess I'm now looking for a plug in the loom somewhere any other suggestion's greatly appreciated this is really doing my head in
 
if all above tests ok ,just a thought ,could each issue be seperate for eg i can count 4 horn assemblys that have gone bad on me, some had adjuster screws on them, i usually put a fingure on horn relay while i engage horn to see if clicks, if power not reaching no click or cooked,(you can swap same relays)(you can do this test on other relays eg lights etc) next i disconect the live wire on horn and go from bat neg to horn, should come on,, on my np 300 cruise control wont work if i have a blown brake light globe , radio ?? could have seperate inline fuse
 
Update well have cleaned all earth points on car and added a 00AWG new cable from neg terminal on battery to engine block 4 time bigger than the original still have no Joy looks like I am going to have to get an auto sparkie to look at it if I can find one that knows what he or she is doing.
Thank you all for your input it is much appreciated
 
Inside you'll see the ribbon cable coiled around the inside. I have bought just the ribbons (actually, my wife found them on eBay) and rebuilt mine before - it's not only cheaper, but I don't open the box and suddenly have a left-hand-drive version (large "L" on the top). Yes, L versions are different and cause indicator cancellation to work a little differently. I don't know (didn't think to try) if the ribbon cable out of a "L" version fits an "R" version, but the ribbon cables are cheaper anyway.

Just a note on this that might help a few people looking to replace their clocksprings...

My RHD 2009 VSK needed a clockspring with L on it, I think due to being an import originally from from the UK where they clearly struggle to tell their left from right. My guess therefore is that the L or R on top of the clockspring refers to the side of the steering wheel that your indicator are on (my indicator stalk is on the LHS) rather than whether its a LHD or RHD?

Off topic, but I hate owning 2 cars with indicators on opposite sides. Constantly looking like an idiot when I wipe the window at intersections...
 
Well a few months have passed since my original post I have replaced the clockspring yet again with another new one and every earth I can find on the car and still I have no steering wheel controls I don't like to let things beat me but I'm sad to day this has gotten the better of me anybody Know of a good auto sparky in Western Australia??
 

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