Hi guys, i have a d40 navara 2012 Spanish built deisel. I have a problem. In the morning on my first start, it starts immediately, runs for 3 seconds and stops. Then it takes a long time of cranking it over and over to get it started. Then when it eventually starts its fine. It will start every time until the next morning. Any ideas on what the problem is.
Fuel problem
- Thread starter bricki
- Start date
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Sounds like you could have a leak in the fuel line on the pump suction side allowing fuel to drain back to the tank overnight. Not familiar with D40 but do you have a priming pump at the fuel filter? If it takes a heap of pumps to go hard that may be the case. Plenty of D40 gurus here to help you out anyway
bods
Member
As above, leaking air into the fuel system for sure. You can either try pumping the primer (not sure if you have a filter head with a primer on it or the separate primer bulb some models had). If you've changed the fuel filter recently (or someone else has) I'd start by removing it, removing the water sensor (if it has the removable type that screws into the bottom of the filter), lubing the seals (o-rings of you prefer) with either diesel, rubber grease or a little bit of engine oil and refitting it.
Normally what happens (and people blame aftermarket filters, even though there's nothing wrong with them) is that the seals don't get lubed up and then get pinched on the filter head when refitting them. Then they leak air and cause the drama you're having and they blame aftermarket ones for being crap, but if they're fitted correctly there's nothing wrong with them.
In the mean time, tomorrow morning, open the bonnet before your first start and pump the primer until it is solid. Then start the motor and you'll probably find it will keep running no worries. The only reason they stop is because the engine uses what is left in the filter and fuel lines to the motor and then sucks air and cuts out because it can't suck fuel back from the tank quick enough. The excess cranking you're doing is just wearing the starter motor out quicker by using that to prime the filter. Do it manually first and get the air leak sorted and you'll be fine.
Normally what happens (and people blame aftermarket filters, even though there's nothing wrong with them) is that the seals don't get lubed up and then get pinched on the filter head when refitting them. Then they leak air and cause the drama you're having and they blame aftermarket ones for being crap, but if they're fitted correctly there's nothing wrong with them.
In the mean time, tomorrow morning, open the bonnet before your first start and pump the primer until it is solid. Then start the motor and you'll probably find it will keep running no worries. The only reason they stop is because the engine uses what is left in the filter and fuel lines to the motor and then sucks air and cuts out because it can't suck fuel back from the tank quick enough. The excess cranking you're doing is just wearing the starter motor out quicker by using that to prime the filter. Do it manually first and get the air leak sorted and you'll be fine.
pol327
Member
I had exactly this same issue with my 2014 D40 from brand new.
I am a mechanic and I did all the same checks that 'bods' has suggested before taking it back to the dealer.
The first time I took it back to the dealer they told me there was no problem with it as they could not fault the problem. I was told if there is no fault code then there is no problem. With my D40 also, 90% of the time it was a cold start issue, however occasionally it would start and stall after sitting for an hour or so.
The second time I returned the car the dealer at 1200 kms they replaced the fuel filter and the check valve on top of the filter and I would think or at least hope also checked for loose clamps or hoses that could cause air leaks, the clamp check I had already done.
The the issue still persisted and I returned the vehicle twice more with the same issue and the dealer had no reasonable explanation for the issue and same excuse of no code, no problem.
When I returned the vehicle for the fifth time I made some noise and told them to keep it until the problem was sorted. After a week I got a phone call to say it was all sorted.
The dealers explanation for the fix was a complete reload of the ECM program. Since that was supposedly done there has been no issue for the past 4 years. It also could be something that the dealer decided not to tell me about as well and just used that to explain something they had missed.
If this did fixed the problem is debatable how. If the computer (ECM) does not see exactly the correct information at the right time then it just shuts down and the engine stalls. This could be something to do with a number of sensor inputs like fuel pressure, oil pressure etc. It also could be a sensor that is working but out of the operating range the ECM likes to see.
The fuel system should have a check valve that stops fuel drain back to the tank. As 'bods' suggested before you try to start on your next cold start, use the primer pump to pressurize the filter and see what happens there. It that fixes the issue then it is most likely a fuel drain back issue. If you are having to continually crank to get it started that sounds like fuel pressure or air in the fuel system.
Also cranking voltage can be an issue. If your battery is old, even though it may sound like its OK, if the battery voltage drops below what the ECM likes to see then this can cause a shut down. This also can be a starter issue if it is pulling to much current when cranking.
Have you connected a code reader to see if there are any fault codes or stored codes ? There are a number of scan gauge type reader tools on the market for around $80, that way you can see, read and delete codes as well as see most of the sensors working in real time.
Keep us posted with what you find
Cheers
Pete
I am a mechanic and I did all the same checks that 'bods' has suggested before taking it back to the dealer.
The first time I took it back to the dealer they told me there was no problem with it as they could not fault the problem. I was told if there is no fault code then there is no problem. With my D40 also, 90% of the time it was a cold start issue, however occasionally it would start and stall after sitting for an hour or so.
The second time I returned the car the dealer at 1200 kms they replaced the fuel filter and the check valve on top of the filter and I would think or at least hope also checked for loose clamps or hoses that could cause air leaks, the clamp check I had already done.
The the issue still persisted and I returned the vehicle twice more with the same issue and the dealer had no reasonable explanation for the issue and same excuse of no code, no problem.
When I returned the vehicle for the fifth time I made some noise and told them to keep it until the problem was sorted. After a week I got a phone call to say it was all sorted.
The dealers explanation for the fix was a complete reload of the ECM program. Since that was supposedly done there has been no issue for the past 4 years. It also could be something that the dealer decided not to tell me about as well and just used that to explain something they had missed.
If this did fixed the problem is debatable how. If the computer (ECM) does not see exactly the correct information at the right time then it just shuts down and the engine stalls. This could be something to do with a number of sensor inputs like fuel pressure, oil pressure etc. It also could be a sensor that is working but out of the operating range the ECM likes to see.
The fuel system should have a check valve that stops fuel drain back to the tank. As 'bods' suggested before you try to start on your next cold start, use the primer pump to pressurize the filter and see what happens there. It that fixes the issue then it is most likely a fuel drain back issue. If you are having to continually crank to get it started that sounds like fuel pressure or air in the fuel system.
Also cranking voltage can be an issue. If your battery is old, even though it may sound like its OK, if the battery voltage drops below what the ECM likes to see then this can cause a shut down. This also can be a starter issue if it is pulling to much current when cranking.
Have you connected a code reader to see if there are any fault codes or stored codes ? There are a number of scan gauge type reader tools on the market for around $80, that way you can see, read and delete codes as well as see most of the sensors working in real time.
Keep us posted with what you find
Cheers
Pete
hi guys thanks for the reply's. the battery is new. when the RAA guy primed it it started straight away. and keept running so as someone said it sounds like air in the fuel line
yes it has a primer pump
grumpy too
Member
You need to find the leak and it can be difficult as fuel rarely leaks out as it's under suction and then again under suction as it feeds back to the tank, if not easy visually (loose clips or cracked hoses) maybe remove hoses at tank and primer so you can pressurise.
Also check that the electrical connector on the bottom of the fuel filter lines up with the knurled knob above it. When inserting the water sensor (the part the electrical connector is connected to) you have to turn it until it clicks, NOT just until you get resistance. The plug should line up with the knurled knob.
My mechanic got mine wrong (twice, so he's not my mechanic any more) and I had the stall issue. Identified by priming the system - and then overpriming it to pressurise the system causing the diesel to leak out.
My mechanic got mine wrong (twice, so he's not my mechanic any more) and I had the stall issue. Identified by priming the system - and then overpriming it to pressurise the system causing the diesel to leak out.
