How does it perform? I got this from Ebay as well.
Engine failure
- Thread starter johnl56
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Been no problems whatsoever. It’s larger then standard as well. Took about 9 litres to get her full. Easy as to fit. Think I spent about $200
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It lives. Just took it for a drive and the gear change is a bit stiff, hard to engage. new clutch so I will let that bed in a bit. If anyone can listen and pick anything that I am missing, a rattle? or something. Could be belts? Not sure.
went into town and had major issues getting gears at stop. Came home adjusted the clutch pedal travel and all good. And now I only have no 4 on fan speed. Another day for that. Leaving the bash plate off for a couple of days to allow for any leaks, but so far all good.
Oh and start up the engine light and the water warning light for the fuel filter are flickering, rev and they go out. Belts? Idle too low?And how do you adjust the idle on these with the electronic throttle
Oh and start up the engine light and the water warning light for the fuel filter are flickering, rev and they go out. Belts? Idle too low?And how do you adjust the idle on these with the electronic throttle
Sorted the gears. Adjusted the clutch pedal, there was a lot more play before the pedal engaged the clutch bearing. Did an ECU reset for the learned fuel usage. Seemed to have fixed the flickering charge lights. I will wait and see. The blower fan not working seems to point to the Risitor has crapped itself. I will pull it out tomorrow and have a look. Order one from Fleabay.
Awesome job. My hat is off to you, sir.
Do you have a slight exhaust leak, perhaps around the exhaust manifold, maybe the manifold-turbo interface, or the EGR tube?
Do you have a slight exhaust leak, perhaps around the exhaust manifold, maybe the manifold-turbo interface, or the EGR tube?
Thanks old Tony. It seems to be on the drivers side. I am wondering about the Power steering belt or tensioner. Sounds like a squeal, I will have to get someone to listen to it as I have lost some of my hearing ( Thanks Army). The EGR tube is blocked off. I am going to leave it for a few days to let things settle down. Other than that yeah all done and dusted. Keep an eye out for any leaks but 1000ks then do an oil change, with filter. I put 5l of oil into it today. new motor so all the passages would have been empty as well. Normally when I check the level it comes up dirty on the stick. Nope clean as a whistle.
Edit: I also changed the belts for new ones as well. That could be what I am hearing.
Edit: I also changed the belts for new ones as well. That could be what I am hearing.
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Nice job John! 
Let it run for a bit and re-tighten the belts, to me that usually shows signs that it's not getting enough charge and the battery is giving way.
It's been great watching your journey. Well done
It done it again today so yeah belts I think. I tried to find the deflection but couldn't in the manual but on a video it says 5mm either way. So yeah
I know I'll get blasted for it.. but I never do it by the book.. for me it's a feel thing, you know when it's too tight and when it's not tight enough
I'm assuming you did new belts, just make sure to check them again in a week or so as they'll stretch a tiny little bit
Okay crap mechanical/memory skills. Didn't tighten the alternator cable retaining bolt. Readjusted the clutch pedal height, and so far all good. I got a video of the lights flickering this morning, and thought not belts, bad earth? loose connection? Yeah gave myself an uppercut.
Haha! I hope you missed ...
Lots of people have done it. I think my worst was when I rebuilt a VW engine and once I had it back in the car I looked around and found a circlip. The kind that holds a gudgeon pin in place.
Good work mate 
I hope I don't need to refer back to it, but it's there for whoever does
I hope I don't need to refer back to it, but it's there for whoever does
Started the car this morning and what a noise, belts slipping, so adjusted the belts to a tighter tension and all good now. Belts were new so have stretched a bit since I've done 300ks. The long 14mm ring spanner is a recommended item for the tool box. I bought a set of AliExpress for 60 bucks and the one spanner has paid for itself.
Would I do it again, Not in a fit, too old for this crap. But it is over with now. I am running 5w30 Synthetic in the engine, I think it is a little bit too thin especially in this weather we are having. So after 1000ks I will update to 10w40 synthetic. Swap out the filter and then every 10K do a change. The motor seems to run fine, it is a noisy as my old motor, actually it sounds the same. I was hoping to notice a difference in sound that would have alerted me to the failing chain. Nope sounds like my old one. It is over with now. The car has done 189K so hopefully I won't have to look at anything for a few years. Maybe over leave I will change out the drive line oils, and flush the brake fluid through. There is a pit next door that I can utilize for the oils which will make it a bit easier on the body.
I haven't done anything major like this in years, and never with a Diesel. I had to buy a few things like and engine crane, leveler, and engine stand. I won't need the stand but will keep the crane for my boat motor if required. Tools that I needed were a long 14mm ring spanner for the nut on the back of the alternator. There is enough space for the bolt to be mounted to the front so it won't interfere with the belts. I might swap that around one day but not for a while anyway.
The Service manual is a very poorly laid out and written manual in my view. Does not provide adequate explanations on things and no specifications for Torque settings for things that in my view are critical.
There was a post on another forum https://www.nissan-navara.net/threads/amateur-engine-removal-guide.22685/ that listed in chronological order things to be removed, that told me more than the manual. I learnt a lot on the way, mainly the techs who designed the car want a kick in the nuts.
I changed out the fan resistor today and would like to know what absolute turd put a screw behind the resistor that you need a mirror to see and a small, flexible screw driver/ socket/ ratchet to try to remove whilst you are on your knees. Didn't put that bugger back in either. They could have put a clip that it holds it and 1 screw at the front. or a screw either end but one in front and one in behind. They must have been laughing in a fit when they designed that knowing that it would be a real PITA to get to.
I haven't done anything major like this in years, and never with a Diesel. I had to buy a few things like and engine crane, leveler, and engine stand. I won't need the stand but will keep the crane for my boat motor if required. Tools that I needed were a long 14mm ring spanner for the nut on the back of the alternator. There is enough space for the bolt to be mounted to the front so it won't interfere with the belts. I might swap that around one day but not for a while anyway.
The Service manual is a very poorly laid out and written manual in my view. Does not provide adequate explanations on things and no specifications for Torque settings for things that in my view are critical.
There was a post on another forum https://www.nissan-navara.net/threads/amateur-engine-removal-guide.22685/ that listed in chronological order things to be removed, that told me more than the manual. I learnt a lot on the way, mainly the techs who designed the car want a kick in the nuts.
I changed out the fan resistor today and would like to know what absolute turd put a screw behind the resistor that you need a mirror to see and a small, flexible screw driver/ socket/ ratchet to try to remove whilst you are on your knees. Didn't put that bugger back in either. They could have put a clip that it holds it and 1 screw at the front. or a screw either end but one in front and one in behind. They must have been laughing in a fit when they designed that knowing that it would be a real PITA to get to.
